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Now, when the engine is running, the crankshaft bearing and journal/shaft are separated by a consistent

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suspension components prematurely, as well as causing issues with the bushes.A problematic counter balance

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Review Post balance shaft toyota

New BALANCE SHAFT NO.1 FIT FOR TOYOTA xB MATRIX CAMRY tC COROLLA SOLARA 2.4L V4 https://t.co/IPMjuIwnQN eBay https://t.co/OejW404EUM

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WELCOME TO TOYOTA/LEXUS SPECIALIST SERVICES - MD AUTO SELAYANG JAYA #2AZFE2.4Cc ENGINE RELACEMENT DUE TO BALANCE SHAFT BROKEN ⛔Engine Knocking Noise when Start in the morning ⛔Engine fell UNDERPOWER ⛔Engine Vibration when reach 3000 RPM ⛔Engine Oil Pressure Warning Light On https://t.co/BykXViSMmn

Installing a balance shaft drive gear on a #Toyota #crankshaft is an expansive experience. #carrepair #overlandpark #kansas #asemastertechs #ase #smallbusiness #independentrepairshop https://t.co/oDKml2fsng

WELCOME TO TOYOTA/LEXUS SPECIALIST SERVICES - MD AUTO SELAYANG JAYA #ToyotaVellfire Maintenance Service #ToyotaAlphard Repairing service #ToyotaEstima Troubleshooting #ToyotaHarrier Engine balance shaft problem #ToyotaVoxy knocking noise( Kokkoksound ) #MDAUTOisyourbestchoice https://t.co/68MYtkrcb1

#Toyota #Vellfire Engine Balance Shaft Replacement ⚠Engine knocking noise in the morning⁉ ⚠After few minutes the sound is gone⁉ Problem: ✅Engine Balance Shaft Crack⚠ ✅Engine noise⚠ ✅Engine under power⚠ ✅Engine vibration and not smooth⚠ https://t.co/WPKZpj4C7h

WELCOME TO TOYOTA/LEXUS SPECIALIST SERVICES - MD AUTO SELAYANG JAYA 【DO YOU KNOW #TOYOTA 2.5CC ENGINE ALSO HAVE #BALANCESHAFT PROBLEM ?】 ✅ Beside then 2.4cc engine (2AZ-FE) common have balance shaft wear out problem, for 2.5cc engine (2AR-FE) also have similar problem, https://t.co/lTXrvYpxvE

Just go back from Maui... Rebuilding the 3RZ (hot 4 banger) for the engine swap in my '94 Toyota. Balance shaft delete = 15 HP, yay!

I liked a @YouTube video https://t.co/gpkptvXmln 3RZ BALANCE SHAFT DELETE (HOW TO) by LCE Performance Toyota

Review Q&A balance shaft toyota

Are 5-cylinder car engines something to avoid or were some good ones made?

Most manufacturers skip over the 5 cylinder engine. The ideal cylinder size for a gasoline engine is about 500cc. So a 1 liter engine ideally would be a twin, 1.5L should have 3 cylinders, 2L 4 cylinder, 3L a 6 cylinder etc. If someone is building a 2.5L engine they usually make a 4 cylinder engine with 625cc cylinders or a 6 cylinder engine with 416cc cylinders because those are close to optimum. Volvo decided they needed to build a 2.5L engine with the ideal 5 cylinders. There are some advantages of a 5 over 4 cylinders. In engines the power stroke is less than 90 degrees because there is no torque at top and bottom center. 5 cylinders are the lowest number of cylinders that have overlapping power strokes which makes power output smoother. 5 cylinder engines have various imbalances but these can be dealt with by balance shafts to produce a smooth engine. Personally inline 6 engines are my favorite. They balance nicely and some are legendary. The American Motors 4L I6 usually goes over 300,000 miles before needing an overhaul. The Toyota/Lexus 2JZ-GE engines also seem to run forever.

Which is better V6 or Inline 6 engine?

Yes,, it is. ,No,, it’s not. The answer isn’t black and white, in the reality of automotive engineering & design. If you are asking from a standpoint of: ‘,On a bench, which engine is better,?’ then… The answer is, the ‘,Straight,’ or ‘,Inline,’ six, ,(reasons described below). However, as engines are essentially worthless unless they can be installed into a vehicle which will be sent down the road, one must consider the limitations inherent in a particular vehicle’s design in order to decide which would be ‘better’ in that vehicle - if both could be made to fit. Usually they cannot, which is why the ‘V’ configurations were first designed. A ‘Straight’ or ‘Inline’ six cylinder engine is the lowest cylinder count engine which, through firing order and ‘even’ number of cylinders, possesses both primary and secondary mechanical engine balance, resulting in much less vibration than engines with fewer cylinders. A close match to this inherent balance can be achieved in a non-I6 engine at the cost of an added 'balance shaft'; essentially a shaft lumpy with spaced weight, running the length of the block internally (housing area is cast inside such a block - a balance system is generally *only* designed into an engine while it's still blueprints. They're not practical to add later. That spinning weighty shaft counters/cancels a given order of said vibration, imparting most of the balance. This is a poor solution, as balance shafts rob horsepower, add weight/parts/complexity and dampen engine response. High costs indeed! “,An inline six engine is in practically perfect primary and secondary mechanical ,balance,, without the use of a ,balance shaft,. The engine is in primary couple balance because the front and rear trio of cylinders are mirror images, and the ,pistons, move in pairs (but of course, 360° out of phase and on different strokes of the 4-stroke cycle). That is, piston #1 mirrors #6, #2 mirrors #5, and #3 mirrors #4, largely eliminating the polar rocking motion that would otherwise result. Secondary imbalance is largely avoided because the crankshaft has six crank throws arranged in three planes offset at 120°. The result is that the bulk of the secondary forces that are caused by the pistons' deviation from purely sinusoidal motion sum to zero. Specifically, the second-order (twice crank speed) and fourth-order inertial free forces (see ,engine balance, article) sum to zero, but the sixth-order and up are non-zero. This is typically a tiny contribution in most applications, but may be significant with very large displacements, despite the usual and advantageous use of long connecting rods reducing the secondary (second-order and up) oscillation in the ,piston motion, in those applications. An ,inline four, cylinder, or even a V6 engine with a crank-speed balance shaft, will experience significant secondary dynamic imbalance, resulting in engine vibration. As a general rule, the forces arising from any dynamic imbalance increase as the square of the engine speed — for example, if the speed doubles, vibration will increase by a factor of four. In contrast, inline six engines have no primary or (significant) secondary imbalances, and with carefully designed crankshaft vibration dampers to absorb ,torsional vibration,, will run more smoothly at the same crankshaft speed (rpm). This characteristic has made the straight-six popular in some European sports-luxury cars, where smooth high-speed performance is very desirable. As engine reciprocating forces increase with the cube of piston bore, the straight-six is a preferred configuration for large truck engines.,” -Wikipedia As noted, the engine can be tilted diagonally in order to allow it to fit under a lower hood line, as well as imparting a lower center of gravity to that mass in the vehicle. So, ,why are I-6 engines fairly rare, (and getting more rare), despite the ability to kick serious butt, reliably? (,Below: ,2JZ-GTE, Toyota Inline Six,) Packaging and cost,. Arranging the 6 cylinders in a ‘V’ halves the length of the engine. Halves. This makes it easy to mount it transversely (sideways relative to car length), add a transaxle, and make a front-wheel drive car - one with many of the performance benefits, few of the drawbacks, and considerably cheaper than arranging an upright or slanted I-6 longitudinally (along the length of the car), adding a transmission, drive shaft, and rear differential… and finishing up with a rear-wheel drive car.

When it comes to Toyota Camry cars, which is better, a 4-cylinder or a 6-cylinder engine?

The 4 cylinders without question. The perfect engine is one with 6 cylinders inline with each other, an inline 6 cylinder or V12. If believe in karma, 6 cylinders inline with each other have perfect balance. There’s no jerking because for every cylinder moving up, there’s a cylinder moving down, perfectly off setting; yin and yang. Most of your legendary long lasting engines are straight 6 cylinder layouts. 4 cylinders inline, 4 cylinders and V8s, are the next best thing, like 6 cylinders there’s no jerking around because cylinders balance each other out, however a row of 4 cylinders does create vibration that has to be managed by other mechanical means. A 3 cylinder layout, V6s have the same vibration, but add to that a harsh jerk because there’s no offsetting cylinder and has to be made up for with a balancing shaft. No matter how good the engineers are, that balancing shaft won’t be perfect and will wear the engine. Typical Honda Accords and Toyota Camrys with V6s will last 200,000 miles, but the 4 cylinders will last 300–400,000 miles because it’s more in balance. In short, V6s are the work of the devil.

Which is a better diesel engine, Nissan, Mitsubishi, Ford, Toyota, or Isuzu?

I'd say all these makes are common in my country of residence which is South Africa. As a vehicle technician, I've encountered fewer problems with Nissan and Isuzu diesel engines. Mitsubishi's are notorious for their balancing shafts which are their weak spot. Toyota diesels' are problematic with their injector drivers which pack up almost frequently. These drivers are also vulnerable to tempering (illegal mobilisation). Fords and Mazda’s are notorious for injector and Diesel pump issues. So for me Isuzu and Nissan are tops in terms of robustness, ignoring power, noise levels and emissions.

Which engine is better between a 5L engine and a 3L engine?

Your question is very confusing. Most people will interpret your question being about 5 Liter and 3 Liter engines. However I presume you talk about the Toyota 3L and 5L 4 cyl diesel engines? The 3L is a 2.8 l engine and the 5L is a 3.0 l. Both non-turbo and indirect injection. There is also a 5L-E which has an electronically controlled fuel pump. I have several vehicles with the 2L and 2L-TE engines (2.4 l) and one with the 5L. I do not have the 3L. Although the 5L will give you more torque and a little more power I find the 5L less smooth compared to the 2L. My guess is that the difference between 3L and 5L will be similar. For the rest the engines are very similar, same mounting, etc. Toyota had another 3 l 4 cyl indirect injection diesel, the 1KZ series, usually turbocharged (1KZ-T(E) ). This engine is very smooth thanks to the balancer shafts running at twice engine speed to smooth out the lineair vibration inherent to a 4 cyl engine. However as it is indirect injection it is quite thirsty. This thirst was much alleviated with the later 1KD-FTV (and the 2.5 ltr 2KD equivalent) which engines have common-rail direct injection.

What is the most difficult part to replace/repair on a car?

Depends on the car, really. However, here are some horrible examples: the heater core in a Volvo 240/740. Volvo guys joke that when they built those cars, they start by putting the heater core on the conveyor belt and then building the rest of the damned car around it. the heater core in MANY vehicles, actually. I can do a 97–01 Jeep Cherokee one in 3–4 hours, but that’s because I’ve got plenty of practice. Most vehicles aside from 80s and earlier domestics, etc have it really buried in the dashboard. A great counterexample is the 91–96 GM B-body sedan/wagon, I can do a heater core or evap core on those in under 30 minutes, not including refrigerant or coolant refill. the rear main seal on an 4.0L powered Jeep is somewhat miserable, but not the worst if you know a couple tricks. pilot bearing, clutch, throwout bearing, all on a manual. Why? Well, they’re located between the engine and transmission, so you are removing one or the other to get at them. Under $100 in parts, hours and hours of labor. similarly, the flexplate or torque converter seal on an automatic. the timing chains (there are 4 of them) on a 4.2L V8 Audi S4 are particularly miserable. Why? Well, they’re on the back of the engine, so you’re spending ten hours to pull the engine, then you have to do 4 timing chains and a bunch of complicated tensioners and guides and put it back in. the alternator bracket oil gasket on a BMW. Yes, that’s a real thing. They put a hole in the side of the engine block because the oil cooler on some models attaches to those ports, but on the particular model I’m talking about, it’s just a bracket that connects the holes together with a 5 dollar gasket that takes a zillion hours to get at and replace. You have to jack the engine up. Don’t buy an E65 chassis BMW X5 unless you’re prepared for some serious pain, folks. the front timing cover on a Ford 6.0L PowerStroke. Why? Well, you have to remove the oil pan, and to do that, I seem to recall you have to remove the transmission, which also means of course removing the transfer case (if 4x4) and the driveshaft(s). Don’t break any bosses off the timing cover or you basically have to gut the drivetrain to replace it… the entire HPOP system, EGR cooler, standpipes, etc on the same 6.0L Ford. Very common issues… and it’s such a pain in the arse to get at that most mechanics literally remove the cab from the truck because IT’S FASTER THAT WAY. Yes, taking half the body off makes engine repairs faster on this truck. Thinking about buying an Expedition or Econoline with this engine in it? I hope you are looking forward to removing literally the entire body from the frame to do engine repairs you can reasonably assume will eventually have to be done, because they all need it eventually. spark plugs and exhaust manifolds on 4.6, 5.4, and 6.8 liter Ford “mod motors”. Some years, the spark plugs break in half when you try to remove them, other years, the replacement plugs strip the holes and fly out when you drive it, denting the hood. timing chains on a 4.0L SOHC V6 Ford. There are 3 or 4 depending on whether it’s got a balance shaft or not. One of them IS ON THE BACK OF THE ENGINE. Why? So Ford could save five bucks by using the same cylinder head casting on both sides of the engine instead of mirror images. What it means? WHEN the timing chain cassette guides fail, you are pulling the engine to replace one of them. fuel tank replacement on a rustbelt Subaru. Why? Well you see, here’s how you do it. First you put the car on the lift. Then you remove both rear wheels, the rear wheel knuckles/bearing housings, the struts (simply because they’re easier to unbolt from the body than it is to unbolt the knuckles from the struts), the rear suspension crossmember and differential, the differential snout T-bar, the rear driveshaft, exhaust… now you can get to the fuel tank. Replace the rear brake pipes and every steel pipe and fitting in the evaporative emissions system while it’s out because they’re all swiss cheese, then put the whole mess back together… and get an alignment done because the whole rear suspension is out of whack now. Oh, they’re steel tanks and rot out in 10–15 years so you have to do this if you live in a state with emissions testing on older cars. Oh and half the bolts I mentioned? They’re either seized solid or screwed into swiss cheese rusty body panels AND seized solid so I hope you’re good with a welder. rear unibody repairs to the subframe that a first-generation Toyota Rav4 rear suspension crossmember mounts to. Especially fun when you don’t want to unbolt any of the parts because you know the whole thing will fall apart if you do, so it’s time to weld the repair panels on without removing the parts that are in your way. The starter motor on a rear wheel drive V8 Toyota pickup or sedan. It’s a fairly cheap part, but guess where it is? Buried in the valley between the two cylinder heads, under the intake manifold and all the parts attached to the top of the engine! The Cadillac Northstar V8 has it in the same place, though it’s a bit easier to replace. rear wheel bearings on the era of Subaru that uses what’s affectionately known as the BAB (“big ass bolt”): If you see this bolt and your rear wheel bearings are rumbling or whining… I hope you’re a decent home mechanic with a 12 ton hydraulic press because otherwise you should pay a pro or sell the car. ANY repair in the engine bay of a W8 engine Passat. Really cool engine? Yes. Really impossible and/or prohibitively expensive to get any parts for it including ones that fail often? Oh yes. Don’t buy these unless you really enjoy the smell of money burning, the glow of check engine lights, and the particularly invigorating feeling of wondering what’s going to break and leave you debating whether to let it sit or spend hundreds on what should be a $5 part. The THERMOSTAT (normally a $2 to $15 part) is $260 to $682. And if it fails you will fail emissions because… the CEL will come on. Why? Because rather than make a solenoid or motor actuated valve and use it to regulate coolant flow… they took a regular thermostat and attached an actuator to it so the computer can move it too. WHEN the actuator fails, the computer notices and on goes the light! UPDATE: holy moly, I didn't expect this answer to be this popular! I think it might be the most-read thing I've ever written and it's only been a day. One of the commenters reminded me of another Awful Repair… clutch hydraulics on a 94-ish Ford ranger. Never again will I work on that mess. Literally everything about it is poorly designed and/or designed with malice and ill intent for every poor bastard of a mechanic who may have to work on it. First of all, it’s what’s known as an “internal slave” type clutch actuator - the slave cylinder is a donut shaped piston concentrically located on the input shaft rather than using a throwout bearing on a clutch fork and a slave cylinder mounted externally to the bellhousing. So if the seals in the slave cylinder go, you have to drop the trans to get at it. The master cylinder is buried under the brake booster, and fed remotely from a little reservoir on the firewall. Normally that’s nice but they mounted it with the ass end uphill and it’s fed from the bottom so it’s proper miserable to bleed - you basically have to bleed it out of the truck, but then you can’t get the freaking thing in without losing all your fluid! Further, they used a particularly hellishly inspired plastic clip to hold the master cylinder pushrod to the pedal - and then buried it as far up into the dashboard as possible… facing the A-pillar… with sheetmetal brackets and junk in the way. And if you lose your temper after screwing with it for 20 minutes trying to unclip it you have to buy a whole new master cylinder because that 5 cent plastic clip is not available ANYWHERE separately (at least for 94-down, I see one for 95-up.) It is presently held on with 3 zipties on my brother’s truck because neither of us felt overly compelled to negotiate with terrorists or pay their blood money. Oh, and the hydraulic line is held into the slave cylinder end with a really miserably designed little quick connect fitting… not the standard one used on trans cooler lines and fuel lines that’s annoying enough, they came up with a whole new miserable design that’s several circles of Hell lower: It seems specifically designed to be impossible to release after 1 day of dirt and salt - the little plastic collar that’s supposed to release those stainless steel barbs gets packed with road dust and the brass corrodes a bit, cementing it in place, and when you try and use the special tool Lisle designed it just mangles the plastic collar and little brass ridge you’re supposed to pry against, and you can only get about 270 degrees of the collar forced down because the bellhousing is in the way of the other 90 degrees! Great design, Ford. Ended up replacing the line along with the slave cylinder. Then the aforementioned bleeding adventure began. It took hours to actually get it right, and reading Ford forums afterward this is not unusual. Protip: just remove the driver side inner fender liner, at least you have room to work inside the wheel well and can bleed the master with it held in a better orientation, hook the line to it, bleed it all, and slap it into the firewall before anything goes wrong. It’s still hell, but at least it’s possible. Suffice to say if I was cursed with such a vehicle repair again I would pay someone else to do it, and I literally do all my own repairs from basic maintenance up to and including AC work, differential R&P setup, trans rebuilds, and electrical fault diagnosis. It would be the first time one of my cars has ever been in a shop for work aside from glass replacement, which I've done but it's actually more economical to have it done than it is to buy the materials myself these days. Those clutch hydraulics are truly an evil, monstrous work by an evil person. These repairs are my least favorite, but I’m sure there are some I’m forgetting and I’m sure there are worse examples.

My 1995 Toyota Corolla with 140k miles on it recently started to shake when idling or when stopping at a red light? What happens if I just ignore this for a month or 2?

If no check engine light, the engine may still be running fine and the shaking may be due to an old motor mount. Too bad it isn’t 1996+ since all U.S. cars have standard OBDII ports to use inexpensive diagnostic tools like ELM327. Yours could have OBDII. If a 4 cyl engine, they tend to shake much more. Some have balance shafts which can fail to cause more shaking, but the engine should still run fine.

How much should an engine rebuild cost for a 2007 Toyota Camry burning oil?

Installation $1000.00. rebuild with machine shop boring will be about $2800.00 if you replace the counter balance shaft another $500.00. You will need to replace the catalytic converter as it is damage and will damage the new engine if you don't replace it. $1200.00 or so little cheaper if you go with a after market cat. Depending on the milage and the condition of the vehicle, it may be better to sell it as is and start over.

What are some common problems with a 1988 Porsche 944?

I have a 1984 Porsche 944 for 5 years now…. I restored it all. But here are the common flaw you will see. If you don’t mind getting greasy, this is a perfect car to learn about mechanic as it is fairly simple to work on, the parts are fairly cheap and widely available. So choose a nice one you like and get greasy, they’re worth it! -The rear hatch is the biggest problem. The rear shock pushes the window toward the back of the car causing it to separate from the frame on top, causing a leak. That is a good occasion to replace the seals at the same time. -Engine oil leak with smell, mostly from: Rear and front balance shaft seal, Front main seal, Camhousing seal and front and rear camshaft seal. Do timing belt and water pump while in there. -Speed and position sensor -Power Steering pump and hose leak -Overheating due to combination of temperature sensor and water pump -Crack vacuum lines and hose due to age. -On early 944 like mine, cracked rubber clutch. But you may want to replace it soon anyways. All of these are a lot of work but nothing that anybody who knows or are willing to learn mechanic can’t do easily. Not very expensive either. I had decided to put all this and more in the budget of my 944 purchase, bought a cheaper but still beatiful one, and ended up making it back to brand new. Now me and my wife are take it on long road trip and we really enjoy it. What I like about my N/A 944: It is not a super fast car, but it is quick and very fun to drive. Handling is fantastic, comfort too. I have room for my 2 kids so we can take it to the cottage, nice size trunk so good for long road trip with your love one. Very cheap on gas due to the well design 4 cyl, (again, good for road trip), once you repaired all the little thing that failed due to age, it is as reliable as any Toyota and I’m not scared driving it very far from home with peace of mind, and last one… It looks Gorgeous, everyone turn their head as I pass anywhere and is a conversation piece at every gas station. Have fun! These link will be very helpful: Clark's Garage Home Page Porsche 944 manuals - Free download 944online Home page Auto Parts and Accessories

Why is the Camry 5th Gen 2003 2.4L 2AZ engine manual recommended using 5w30 oil and the 6th Gen 2008 using the same engine recommended using 0w20 oil?

2008 2AZ engine is technically different than 2003 model. They look similar parts are different. Casing, crank shaft, counter balance shaft, cylinder head were all redesigned by Toyota. New rings were the main reason 0w20 were recommended.

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