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After last year’s successful debut of eRacing GP’s online competitions, Axle Sports will
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over-the-air (OTA) updates.Features on the 2021 Mercedes-Benz C-ClassThere’s an optional rear-axle
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the final specifications (international markets model, local specifications to be confirmed) of the BMW
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Purely mechanically speaking pulling is more stable tan pushing. I can give you two historical examples: Horse-driven carriage is pulled, not pushed due to stability. Imagine how unstable it would be as a pusher. I wouldn't dare to ask horses their opinion on the matter…;) Cars used to be rear axle driven (due to technical problems of driving steering wheels). Once the problem was overcome and front axle driven cars appeared, it was a significant improvement in mechanical stability (unless you want intentional instability - BMW ;)). The understeering of front-driven cars (distasted by some…) is the proof of inherent stability. From an aerodynamic point of view, puller prop can have an additional advantage, if placed “correctly”, it can blow high-speed air over the wing improving its performance (stall speed etc). Some of the new e-propulsion planes in development nowadays use this advantage by multiplying the number of propellers placed all over the wings.
That depends on “from what” and what size bearing. And how the bearing is fitted (is it the outside or inside that has the press fit). Very often bearings are “press fit”, in which case you typically should be using a press to push the bearing off the axle or housing. Sometimes, a drift and a hammer will also work, but in some cases it’s hard to reach the surface to hammer on it. There are specific bearing pullers too that work with a screw pull or as a “slide hammer” type thing to pull the bearing out of its place. Often, heating the outer thing (bearing housing or bearing itself on an axle) will allow it to come out. Oven or blow-torch. In some cases, the least bad amateur way of solving this is to cut the bearing - this may be a case of a dremel with a small metal cutting disc, or a oxy-acetylene cutting torch, depending on the size of the bearing. Angle grinder for the sizes between. Don’t cut all the way through, just enough that you can get a chisel or “poor mans chisel” = screwdriver into the cut and break the last bit. I have used all of these methods - never done the oxy-acetylene cutting, only seen other people do that on youtube. I have replaced bearings on my motorcycles, my car, my lathe and my milling machine - and probably a couple of other things that I forget now [well, and on skateboards, but that’s not hard by any measure] Best thing is probably to google or search in youtube for “Bearing replacement on <insert thing>” - for example “Bearing replacement on BMW Z4 front axle” or “Bearing replacement on Warco GH1330 headstock”. If that doesn’t work, try something less specific and see if there’s at least something better than my hand-wavy explanations above (that absolutely work, but you have to know what it is you are replacing, how it is fitted and how to get it out, and there are probably other methods that I haven’t used).