subaru idle problems
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Review Post subaru idle problems
http://www.fixya.com 2001 Subaru legacy idle problem: The car drives normally and idles norm.. http://tinyurl.com/8donn5
Idle problem/ Boost cut in 3rd on 1997 STI - Subaru WRX Forum: WRX ...: Hey, I really need some help with a weir.. http://bit.ly/zDhDc
Fucking Subaru fucking e-throttle idle fucking bullshit. Fucking shitty fucking PITA in the first place, and I can't find shit about an unrelated idle problem... and the shop I went to when I gave up just reset the idle (after I told them it was the 1st thing I tried... 3 times!)
Rough idle problem hits Scion FR-S, Subaru BRZ coupes: Automakers say fault lies in engine control unit: Toyota ... http://t.co/H557nN22
I picked up a Junk Subaru with a Engine Idle Surge Problem in 07395.: I picked up a Rusty old Toyota with a Engin... http://bit.ly/c3eTuV
Here's How To Fix The Scion FR-S And Subaru BRZ Engine's Idle Problem http://t.co/vVLjpdrh
Subaru Service and Repair – Do the Scion FR-S and Subaru BRZ Twins Have an Engine Idle Problem? – Continental Mo... http://t.co/xhRfyrF5
Subaru Forester idle problem and no A/C (FIXED) https://t.co/4fZuHzVNAa
Idle problem! - Ultimate Subaru Message Board http://t.co/5fApBw7A
idle problem: Hi i have problem with my subaru 1994 wrx. I went to subaru to find out my idle control valve is... http://bit.ly/aRf5Sb
Review Q&A subaru idle problems
What is bad about Tesla cars?
I am an enthusiastic owner of a Tesla Model 3, so my answer could be considered biased in Tesla’s favor. I’d much rather write about all the benefits of a Tesla EV. I will, however, try to give an honest answer from my personal experience and from the experiences of people I know and trust. Let me start by saying that this is the best car I’ve ever owned. After a year since I took delivery, my Tess is still a joy to drive. But there are some things which prospective buyers should be aware of. I don’t call them flaws, but rather drawbacks for some people depending on their unique circumstances: Although my Model 3 has a driving range of 310 miles, it’s only true under ideal driving conditions. Range is often less, depending on many factors, but particularly as temperatures drop to near freezing. Range will be cut by as much as 50% when the mercury falls below 0° Fahrenheit (-18° Celsius). A cold battery won’t supply as much energy as a warm one, and heating the interior in winter consumes a lot of battery charge. You can compensate for this by adding charge to battery early in the morning before driving off to work, and at the same time heating the interior cabin. The same can be done at work if your employer provides EV charging parking spaces. If not, just beware of the reduction in range that you’ll experience. For this reason, I recommend the long range (310 mile) Model 3 for those who will drive the car in cold winter climates. It’s not practical or advisable to use Tesla’s Supercharger network to routinely charge your car. You’ll need a 240V 50amp Nema 1450 outlet in your garage or driveway to plug your car in each evening. The cost to have that circuit installed is an expense you should factor into your decision to buy a Tesla. The cost varies depending on how far from the main breaker you need to install the outlet, and how difficult it will be to route the heavy electrical line. Five hundred to a thousand dollars is not unusual. I advise getting a quote from your electrician ahead of time so there’s no surprise after taking delivery. The Model 3 uses a special key card or a smart cellphone to lock, unlock, and drive the car. The phone key is very convenient, but if your Apple or Android phone is an early model, it may not work reliably or at all, forcing you to upgrade to a later model. You can also purchase a key FOB from Tesla for $150, but strongly advise using a cellphone loaded with Tesla’s APP which allows you to monitor and perform several useful functions remotely. The Model 3 is a high performance car. It’s capable of accelerating from a stop with head snapping force. It’s fun. But even if you choose not to ‘launch’ the car, the high weight of the car and the instant torque delivered to the wheels will tend to shorten the life of the tires from what you may be accustomed to in an ICE car. There are many factors that contribute to tire wear, but I wouldn’t count on getting more than 25,000 miles on a set of tires. One of the things I really love about my Tesla is that it keeps getting better with free over-the-air software updates from Tesla. To receive software updates you’ll need a strong wifi signal where you park your car. If you don’t have wifi, I advise that you get it. If you have wifi, but it doesn’t reach your garage or driveway, you’ll need to install a range extender. Tesla is still in its formative stages as an auto company and is having difficulty keeping up not only with demand for the Model 3, but also setting up, staffing and training service and repair center personel to take care of Tesla customers. Although I haven’t experienced poor customer service myself, there are accounts of long delays getting body work repaired after an accident, having to drive long distances to get to a Tesla service center, and other customer service complaints. It’s something to consider if great customer service is high on your criteria list. Lastly, I must point out that there’s an element of society that has taken a strongly emotional disliking for Elon Musk and Tesla. It’s sad to say, but owning a Tesla will attract some unwelcome attention from this group. It ranges from people ‘ICEing’ Tesla charging stations, being ‘coal rolled’ by angry diesel pickup owners, being harassed in the highway, even acts of vandalism. It seems to be more prevalent in California than elsewhere. Since Tesla updated their cars with the dash cam and Sentry Mode, incidents have dropped off, so hopefully this drawback can be retired. A drawback I hear often is that Tesla cars are too expensive. I disagree. Any car is too expensive if you can’t afford it. Tesla cars offer great value for the price. It’s particularly true for the Model 3, and the reason it’s so much in demand. The Model 3 is stealing market share from Prius to BMW. When you look at the Model 3’s superior performance, handling, safety, efficiency, convenience, technology, reliability, durability, and styling, it’s hard to claim that the car is not worth the asking price. Addendum: I’m a strong advocate for electric cars. I encourage people to consider buying or leasing one. If they’ll listen, I’ll explain the pros and cons. I’ve found that people will readily accept things I tell them about the disadvantages of owning and driving an electric car while encountering surprise, disbelief and resistance when I tell them about the many advantages. I’ll admit that owning an EV is a lot different than owning a traditional car. My sense is that people, in general, dislike moving out of their comfort zone. I’m no exception. It took me years to work up the courage to take a chance on an electric car. I first bought a plug-in hybrid, and then a full electric Tesla. Another drawback that I frequently hear concerns the range and charging of EVs: limited range, slow charging rates, and lack of charging stations. Those may have once been valid criticisms, but not today, at least not for Tesla cars. Consider my experience; I’m about to log 10,000 miles on my Model 3 since taking delivery last year. I have charged my car 26 times at Superchargers on 5 interstate road trips totally 4240 miles in 8 travel days costing $168.16 ($0.04/mi). That amounts to a savings of $304 had I driven my previous gasoline fueled Subaru Forester. I can only remember six times having to wait for enough charge to continue on my trip. I estimate about 3 of 80 total travel hours (not counting overnight stays). That compares to about 2 hours I would have spent refueling my ICE car. Not a big difference. The nice thing about charging is that I just back into an empty stall, plug in (no credit card needed) and walk away. My Tesla phone app notifies me when charging is complete. It usually only takes 20 to 30 minutes to get on my way. While charging, I’m using the restroom, getting a cup of coffee, having a meal, or settling in at a hotel. Charging is often complete before I’m ready to continue driving. If I don’t disconnect the charger within 5 minutes of completing a charge I can incur idle charges, but that has never happened. Most charging stations are less than 50% full. The other 350+ non-traveling days of the year I never have to go to a gas station. I just take a few seconds to plug in the car at home. I always have a “full tank” (actually 80% full battery) every morning. I also have solar panels on my roof, so the cost of charging up at home is free. Now that I’ve experienced the realities of EV ownership, there is simply no way I would ever go back to filling a gas tank. What people often think is a drawback to owning an EV is not a drawback at all.
Is there any way you can give your alternator more power besides switching out the alternator?
I had a 1980 Subaru once. The alternator did not have enough output when the engine was idling in traffic. The battery went dead in traffic one time when the lights were on, heater fan blowing, and wipers running. I had to get a jump start. The damper pulley on the front of the engine was too small to spin the alternator fast enough at idle to run all of the electrical load. The alternator output was fine at cruise speed. I could have put a bigger damper pulley on the front of the engine, or a smaller pulley on the alternator, neither of which would have been a good idea. I gave up and put a General Motors alternator in the car, which solved the problem. I had to build a new mounting system and change the wiring to make it work. Subaru makes a lot better car nowadays, than they did back in 1980. My Subaru was almost fun to drive, except the engine was too weak for any excitement. I couldn’t keep up with traffic on the freeway, especially on a gentle hill.
How do you fix a car that rattles when idling in drive?
If it's a Subaru, it's likely an exhaust heat shield rattle. Subaru or not, follow the sound to the source of the rattle. If it is a loose heat shield on a pipe, a hose clamp or exhaust clamp will solve the noise problem. A catalytic converter heat shield rattle will require a much larger clamp.
Will a transmission flush stop my transmission from slipping?
I would do a stall test: With the engine/trans warmed up -as in after driving a few miles - sitting in a safe place with the engine idling in Drive, hold the brake with your left foot and push the accelerator down while watching the tachometer. If the tach goes above say, 2500 RPM, then you probably need to either rebuild the trans or swap in another one. However, if the RPM levels out around 2200–2500 RPM even if you push down on the gas, that’s a sign the clutches inside are not slipping. You should repeat the test in reverse but wait for a few minutes letting the engine idle so the fluid can cool off. Don’t do this test repeatedly, because it really heats up the fluid. If the result is the same in reverse, then I’d say the problem may be remedied with a fluid change/flush. I did this three years ago to a 2006 Subaru Forester that seemed to have trouble shifting. The shifts were not “clean” they sort of dragged out like it was slipping. I noted that the fluid on the dipstick was very dark and seemed watery. If you can pass the stall test I described above, and the fluid is dark and not pink, a flush might help. The Subi I worked on is still going strong. The owner asked me to look at it after a dealer told her she needed a new transmission and wanted $1600 for installing a used one. -fixed it for about $55 worth of ATF. A flush is very messy if you do it yourself. Take the hose off of the cooler (bottom of the radiator) and put a bucket under the outlet. Top off the fluid with fresh ATF. Have a helper start the engine and let it idle for 30 sec. or so while watching the fluid coming out. A clear hose into the bucket is useful here. Kill the engine and top off the fluid again. Don’t let it run until nothing comes out! You don’t want air in there. Top off and repeat -shouldn’t take more than a few times but you have to have plenty of fresh ATF. Check the owner’s manual for ATF capacity and buy 2x that. When the discharge is nice and pink, reattach the hose and top it off. If the hose pops out of the bucket as it did with me, you’ll have a mess to clean up! -but you also may have fixed your car problem. Note: I found the stall test by looking in a (Subaru) service manual. Those will pay for themselves many times over. You can often find them in CD format on eBay for much less than the printed versions.
Do you think car manufacturers purposely engineer their cars so that the average person cannot do their own repairs?
“Do you think car manufacturers purposely engineer their cars so that the average person cannot do their own repairs?” I don’t think they don’t do that; I ,know ,they don’t do that. From the time cars were first in mass production, a car engine was simple, everything under the hood was fairly accessible, and most maintenance and repairs could be done using a fairly basic set of tools. This continued through most of the 1960s. Then the 1970s came. In the early ‘70s, the US government started enacting laws and regulations that reduced emissions. Fuel economy started to become important. Auto makers responded by reducing the compression ratios of their engines, which allowed them to run on unleaded gasoline without “spark knock,” which occurs when combustion is not well controlled. A side effect was engines that used to make tons of power were now reduced to what would be considered barely adequate. As time went on, technology improved. Carburetors on American cars became more complex so they could accommodate feedback from an oxygen sensor in the exhaust, allowing for a richer mixture when warranted and a leaner mixture at other times, and the Europeans simply put fuel injection on everything from about the late-‘70s on. In the late ‘80s, nearly all cars were fuel injected. There were a few holdovers, but the carburetor and emissions systems were extremely complex, and any minor problem turned into an enormous headache, both in terms of drivability and troubleshooting. For example, my son bought a 1989 Honda Prelude as his first car about 4 years ago, and it had 28 separate vacuum circuits under the hood, most of which were there for things like idle speed control and engine management tasks required to improve emissions. (This was one of the last carbureted models of any car sold in the US.) As noted, this was extremely difficult to troubleshoot. The fuel injection systems actually improved on that aspect of things, because with proper tools and knowledge, a mechanic could fairly easily determine what isn’t working right and repair or replace the faulty component to correct the issue. Another benefit was emissions - fuel injection systems could adjust the fuel delivery on the fly, to a greater extent than carburetors, reducing NOx and hydrocarbon emissions. Fuel economy was also improved - the engine no longer had to be over-fueled at idle, for example, to avoid being under-fueled when the throttle was open. Fuel economy and emissions aside, people want progress. They want the new model to have more power and better acceleration than the old model. They don’t want to adjust their valve lash every 3,000 miles - or even every 12,000 miles. So now we’re at a point where the average home mechanic can do little more than basic maintenance (and most drivers won’t even learn to change a tire, leaving them at the mercy of a tow driver in an emergency). But let’s be honest, most cars require very little more than basic maintenance. My 2018 WRX has required oil changes every 6,000 miles. My wife’s Lexus has required oil changes every 10,000 miles, and it will be due for a set of spark plugs later this year, per the Toyota / Lexus maintenance schedule. Troubleshooting isn’t something I’ve had to do on these cars. I haven’t had to adjust the choke to get either car to start reliably in the winter. (Yes, that used to be a thing.) Since they have hydraulic lash adjusters, I haven’t had to adjust valve lash and it’s something I’ll never have to do. My Subaru doesn’t have a timing belt, which the previous generation had. That’s one more maintenance item off the table. Cars today are vastly superior to cars from the past, when the average home mechanic could repair them. And let’s be fair, cars are still machines, and as such, they have plenty of mechanical issues that can occur, which can be repaired at home. If this were not the case, Autozone, Advance Auto Parts, O’Reilly Auto Parts, and a host of others would not exist. I have two boys with older cars and we fix mechanical issues on them regularly. We rebuilt the 6-speed manual transmission in my son’s RSX last fall. I’m an engineer, but I don’t have formal training as an auto mechanic. Neither do my boys. To make a long story short, your premise is false; the average person can certainly perform many of their own repairs if they choose to do so. Car manufacturers have not deliberately made modern cars more complicated with the goal of preventing people working on them; cars have become more complex because that’s what it took to hit the performance, emissions, fuel efficiency, and consumer-driven targets.
Why does my 2005 Subaru Outback shake when it is idling? Is the engine out of balance, slightly? Is it an ignition problem? Should I check the spark plugs?
I don't know how long you've had it, but Subaru's normally have a slight shake at idle(the horizontally opposed engine doesn't have the smoothest idle). Now, if it is more than just a slight shake at idle I would clean the throttle body first. Hard to offer any more advice than that without seeing it.
What makes a 6 cylinder engine so smooth?
Start with a single cylinder. Bang, wait, bang, wait, bang. With a 4 stroke, it is firing once every compression stroke. It needs a big heavy flywheel to keep rotating between bangs. Add a cylinder, and now bang bang, bang bang, bang bang. Smoother because as one piston goes up the other piston goes down, especially in a counter weighted 90° V2. Go to three cylinders and you have to add a counter balance shaft to keep the vibrations down, because one piston goes up and two go down in an inline 3. Not as good a balance as 2 cylinders. Go to four, five and now six cylinders. Even less vibrations, especially with flat engine 2, 4, 6, etc even number piston designs such as Porsche, VW, Subaru. You are at the holy grail point with 6 cylinders before going to 8 cylinders. The power is delivered with 6 pistons, so as one begins to fire another is almost ready to fire, and so on, so there is a very smooth 6 part power delivery to the flywheel. The next thing is that paired pistons are going up and down so the balance is quite good. The only thing with a straight six, or a straight 8, is that the crankshaft is long, so can flex somewhat, creating a resonant point vibration that may break the shaft without a harmonic balance dampener at the front end of the shaft. V6 designs are even better for reducing this resonant vibration, but have other balancing problems. See So in a nutshell. More cylinders make the power delivery smoother. The simple fact that there are 6 cylinders means that the engine is large in displacement, so is more powerful and really does not need to rev as much. This makes the vibration less in itself, and also can allow low idle revs. The pairing of pistons also improves on the balance vibrations and resonance. Over time, experiments with different bore and stroke ratios have discovered a couple of really good combinations for smoothness and power, so they are used most by the luxury car makers. The RollsRoyce V8 and the Packhard straight 6 come to mind.
Why does it sound like the Subaru Turbo cars have a miss at idle that goes away at speed?
My guess is the engineers went a bit overboard trying to get the best possible mileage # having already gone for a big HP #. Subaru could easily fix the miss with a software upgrade but would likely lose a bit of the mileage #, not acceptable as that would lead to lawsuits. BMW has had similar problems recently as every manufacturer goes for the best mileage but doesn’t have the ability to dial it back after the mileage numbers are published. My 2018 Subaru feels a bit lean off idle, likely a simple fix, but Subaru doesn’t appear in any hurry to change anything.
What is a better car to buy, Subaru or Lexus?
Ok, I am biased, I can admit that. I never would've owned a Subaru before I started working on them. I have been impressed how well they are put together and how it seems thought was put into that someone will have to work on it sometime. Now, that being said they are not perfect. I hate to say it but I would probably have to say Lexus if you plan on owning the vehicle long term(new to 300,000 miles). Now, if you plan on having it new to 100,000 miles then pick the one you like best as neither should have any real problem in that range. I don't like CVT transmissions. Subaru as more experience with them as they used them in the Justy in the 80s and 90s with a powder clutch(electromagnetic clutch basically) but they still aren't perfect. Each has issues they are prone to. Subaru's have a vibration at idle from the horizontally opposed engine they use, it is only noticeable when you first drive them as over time you just get used to it. Subaru's AWD is a great set up and standard on everything but the BRZ, but it does hurt fuel economy but experience the added control in snowy weather and you'll agree it's worth it. I will say you've chosen two very good manufacturers and you shouldn't be disappointed whatever you choose.
What causes the idling to move up and down?
In my brothers Subaru it was caused by an air leak at the throttle butterfly input shaft :— The throttle butterfly input shaft Bush was worn & replacing the throttle body fixed the problem !
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