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subframe repair cost

Review Post subframe repair cost

@SCP2547 is more worth it. I feel like it’s a way better car but I have 2 say my favorite roadster is a 986 Boxster. As long as you replace the IMS bearing it reliable but the problem w/Porsche that you need a lift to repair. You have to drop subframe w/engine to access Parts cost 5x BMW https://t.co/lNRNhfiVQU

@audisouthafrica My vehicle which went to @AudiCEastRand for a subframe replacement and airbag reset came back with faults. Now @audisouthafrica says I must repair the vehicle at my cost. The car still has a valid motor plan... @AudiOfficial @PublicProtector @CompComSA #Audi https://t.co/UAvpEzLTT6

@ohtazer most of the rear subframe is aluminum. 95 percent of the rest of the car is steel. If it was me I would get quotes from body shops for cost to repair. With 60k miles it might not be worth repairing but he could buy the car back and sell the battery. Those are still worth $$$.

@p_tech I need my E46 subframe fixed. Found cracks when installing new shocks. BMWis reluctant to pay the full cost to repair their defect.

anybody know how much subframe repair cost on a car? #Help!

@reepRN @Potato_Chip @franzpoppz They did find a noise they said I needed fixed while it was there and I okayed that repair which is why it cost so much but I didn’t even bring it in for noise, then to have subframe damage is a bit wild.

@JM_Farnell @thegrandtour That classic mini will need, sills, wings, A panels, a new floor, a rear subframe and synchro has gone in 2nd. That’s how much it will cost to repair

@cowfee_desu *nods* It looks like the damage missed the subframe and suspension so it looks 'fixable' but since it'd need a cowl, fender, bumper, bonnet, light assembly, etc it's a question of 'at what cost' rather than 'possible to repair' Best of luck! Let us know if we can help somehow

My soul is fairly shiny. Wonder how much I'll get? About £1000? Which is how much with labour it's going to cost to repair my subframe *sob*

@Rusty_dutch Cracks in the unibody where rear subframe mounts. Through lawsuit, BMW reimbursed me the full cost of the weld/reinforce repair

Review Q&A subframe repair cost

How many miles is too many miles on a used Cooper S?

I will give you my own anecdotal experience. I bought a 2003 MINI S in 2011. It had about 70K miles on it. Manual. It was okay for a while, I took care of oil changes and fluids at regular intervals. Then at around 90K things started to go south. One thing after the other, which I continued to have fixed because I wanted to be able to sell the car running. I spent over $5K (the clutch was the biggest ticket item) on a car that was barely worth that by the time I sold it at 100K miles. My mechanic said that the only car he hates working on more than MINI Coopers is PT Cruisers. Both require one to take of an enormous number of items just to do simple repairs. That of course adds to repair costs because it takes much longer to repair. Besides that, BMW made parts.$$. Also the S, in 2003 was not a turbo it had a supercharger. Which from my perspective makes things more complicated. Here for example is how to replace a water pump. R53 Water Pump Replacement Here is clutch replacement. I have never seen a more involved clutch job than this. Clutch Replacement You have to remove the front bumper assembly and front subframe, and transmission (and a bunch of other stuff). AND the clutch is one of the most common things to go. 2003 was a particularly bad year for them, but they really are not known to be winners. I personally would not even get one if it had 50K on it. Run away, I say.

Is the BMW 325/330 E46 a good first car?

The newest E46 BMW will be 14 years old (the last convertibles ere MY2006) by the time you decide to acquire one. I’d be surprised if anyone would recommend this as a good first car for anyone who isn’t a BMW mechanic. Even then, you’ll face a vehicle with : likely over 100K mi on the odometer (if you use the typical 15K mi/yr that’s 210K+) high maintenance/repair costs (the cars are designed to be fun to drive — not easily repairable) and high parts costs. While the purchase price of German luxury cars depreciates over time, their repair costs don’t exactly get cheaper. A $50K german car sold for only $10K will still have the maint/repair costs of a $50K car. a vehicle that has more than likely at least 2 prior owners. It’s typical for second and third hand luxury car owners, esp german luxury cars, to have “deferred maintenance”. See item #2. Why pay to fix this minor item (say a rear window that refuses to go up) or a creaky suspension if the car still works “well enough.” Eventually, all of the little broken things and/or the skipped preventative maintenance will all add up and YOU as the third/fourth owner will have to deal with the mess. 14yr old fiddly german electronics (these cars are chock full of Bosch parts). Google e46 rear subframe cracking. This is an issue which quite a few e46 cars suffer. Its repairable but again, that’s more $$$ you will need to allocate. Are you sure you want to deal with this drama for your FIRST car? On top of all this, as with all high mileage cars, you’ll probably be the owner that will have to deal with parts that wear out gradually (suspension dampeners, rubber bushings, etc.) All this stuff adds up esp if you have to buy the parts AND pay for labor. Just call around your local area and see if how much a typical independent BMW/Audi/MB specialist will charge over a similar Toyota/Mazda/Honda specialist. There’s a premium baked in there. Don’t get me wrong; the e46 is a cool car. They are arguably one of the last generations of BMW 3-series that was fun to drive before the cars became more disposable and a LOT more complicated to repair. However, most examples will be pretty well used up by now and any one owner, low mileage examples, will probably have an owner demanding a hefty premium. I would argue that if you want a BMW for a first car, consider going older and find yourself a nice, well kept, non-rusty e30. Those cars are still fiddly with their design (there’s fiddly design choices like a driveshaft guibo and placing the brake booster towards the front of the engine bay vs. on the firewall) but the cars are simpler and parts availability will be quite good.

What are the secrets in a car which only an automobile engineer knows?

This isn’t really a secret, but generally cars are designed to manufacture them at the factory, and maintenance is generally a secondary or tertiary consideration. Many people complain that new cars are impossible to work on compared to the muscle cars of the 1960s. This is because those muscle cars were generally manufactured in the same way as you might do things in your garage, while modern cars are put together primarily by robots and systems are assembled to subframes and plugged in to the chassis. This makes the manufacturing process very quick and efficient, which drives the purchase cost down, but may put items such as spark plugs and filters in locations that are not very accessible. If you want to see vehicles that are designed for serviceability, take a look at modern tube-frame race cars, particularly ones made for endurance racing. You’ll see that the body is very easy to remove, and nearly all components are accessible and easy to repair or replace. Most Formula Fords run a Hewland gearbox — one can swap the entire gearset after draining the fluid and removing a few bolts. Try doing that in your street car.

What was the most amount of miles you have ever put on a single vehicle? Did the repair costs get progressively worse or better with time? Why did you decide to keep that vehicle for so long, was there a special connection between you and your ride?

I put 186,000 more miles onto a 71,000 mile 1997 Subaru Impreza L sedan. I junked it as a running, driving car with Pull-A-Part in Akron, Ohio. It had 257,000 miles on it. It had multiple issues, but would take you anywhere you wanted to go. I junked it because the rear subframe that holds the lateral suspension links had bad, scary rust. I was afraid I or someone else would get killed if it continued to be driven. The repair costs got cheaper for the most part over time, although I didn’t fix everything that went wrong the last three years. I kept it that long because my income went down during that period. I had no other viable choice. A special connection to that car? Sort of. I went through good times and bad times with that car, but it rarely broke and did everything I ever asked it to do. It was the best car I’ve ever owned, and the lowest cost per mile, too.

Car Mechanics. What's an expensive (labour costs) job you've done on a vehicle that would have been cheap if the vehicle design was better?

Cadillac V8’s in fwd cars are kinda notorious for having expensive repairs due to its uncommon design. You see one of the reasons having transverse V8’s is not common is because they would be shoehorned in the engine bay. This is the case with many Cadillacs from about 1985 to 2011. I personally own a 2002 Cadillac Deville and thankfully I work on it myself. The main reason is many engine repairs can total this car due to the engine being transverse. Trying to replace spark plugs? The first 4 in front are super easy to switch out. The back 4 I think aren’t hard they are just annoying to remove because they are up against the firewall. This can easily pay a shop mechanic an hour of labor or more (as there are tricks to removing them quicker) Both Ht-4100 V8’s (first picture) and Northstar V8’s (second picture) have head gasket issues and how do they get fixed (if anyone dared)? The entire drivetrain (engine and transmission) has to come out of the car! If a shop did this they can charge 48+ hours of labor which equates to $4000 to $5000 to fix the car. Another example when it comes to these engines is the infamous crankshaft case oil leaks. Again this is an engine out job as the subframe is in the way. Again this repair at a shop will cost $4000 to $5000. I think you get the idea now, a transverse v8 car is very expensive to repair which no wonder they are essentially worthless. Here is a video demonstrating this. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aUNAOozvW1Q&ab_channel=HooviesGarage As I said before I own a Cadillac Deville that has a Northstar V8 and is susceptible to all the issues I outlined before. But the reason I am not too worried about them is that I do my own work! You can get around the crazy repair bills if YOU do the repairs. Parts for these cars are plentiful as there are lots of these cars in the U-Pull yards which make repairs cheap.

What is the most difficult/complicated auto repair you've ever carried out, completely on your own?

My wife bought a 1991 Celica GT from a relative, sight unseen. It was cosmetically OK, with low mileage, but poorly maintained, so there was significant engine wear, sludge buildup, needed a lot of maintenance and repairs. After having a mechanic doing a lot of work on it, timing belt, hoses, fuel filter, tune up, I bought new tires and battery. Other things began going bad, rather than pay the mechanic I did the work myself: plugs, ignition wires, hatchback gas struts, brake lights, horn replacement, headlight replacement. Then the enginw seals were leaking and getting worse. One day, it spun 2 rod bearings and I took it to the mechanic who had done work on it the last 2 years. He said $4,000 to rebuild it. So I decided I would try to fix it myself, went online, looked at videos and started to do an in the car engine rebuild, since I didn't have an engine hoist, or stand, or a place to work on the engine. I checked compression, all the rings were fine, so I decided to proceed. Thankfully my local auto parts store lends out compression tester and some tools for free. I had never done anything like this before, but decided why not try it? In order to remove the oil pan you have to support the engine and remove the front subframe completely, so there's nothing supporting the engine and transmission. Out came the jack stands, floor jack, and scissor jack. So I pulled the crankshaft pulley and harmonic balancer, took out the timing cover, timing belt, removed the oil pump, replaced the oil pump seals, crank main seal, camshaft seal, 5 main bearings, 4 rod bearings, replaced one bad connecting rod, hand polished the rod journals, checked all bearing clearances, replaced gaskets, replaced 2 engine mounts, fixed vacuum hose leaks, and cleaned the throttle body and MAF sensor. After all that it ran fine! Drove it 2,000 miles then donated it to a worthwhile charity. It was a lot of work, but the parts only cost about $350 because I ordered aftermarket parts online from discount auto parts place whose name rhymes with “lock-otto” but there was about 70 hours spent on weekends. If I had been a mechanic instead of a desk job guy, I probably could have done it much faster. It was a challenge!

Which is better, updating your car to a newer model every 2 or 3 years or keeping the same car as long as it lasts?

This is hard to answer due to demographic, subjective and philosophical bias. In general, it’s always cheaper to repair a car than to replace it. This is particularly true on newer late-model cars. The amount of money that you pay in taxes, down payment, and especially depreciation are very important factors to consider. The amount of time you spend inside the car, the relative purpose of your car in your life, and your demographic needs are strongly related to your interest in brand and model, which can further define your market segment and price. Someone who sits in traffic 4 hours a day and sees their car as their mobile office has different needs than someone who drives 20 minutes each way to work. Leasing is a good option if you drive less, not more. All leases penalize consumers for driving in excessive of ‘low-average mileage’ amounts. If you drive less than 12–15k miles per year and want the benefits of a new car every 2–3 years, a tax write off for your business (or both) this is a decent option. The main problem that I see is that very few cars hold up well to high mileage. This usually isn’t a mechanical problem, as most cars are engineered to give 200–300k service life before major problems set in. This is a durability issue - paint quality, sheet metal, stress points that creak/squeak, drivability, rock chips, stress to the subframe and other areas from potholes, heat damage from constant stop/start, and general use and abuse of the interior. Roads and infrastructure in my country are declining every year. Truckers are to blame, but the cities and states can’t fix things fast enough. The damage overwhelms the rate at which repairs can be implemented. Add to this the problems of cheap civil engineering that dictates 2 lane roads for 4–6 lane capacity, or parking that is designed for Yugo-sized vehicles, and cars sustain a lot of ancillary damage as a result. So yes, while you’re paying off your 5 or 6 year car note, your car is taking a huge nosedive as a depreciating asset. Most cars take a 50% depreciation in their first 3 years of service life. Yes, even European cars. If you are a super-commuter, or are ferrying family/kids all day, expect aggressive depreciation and higher maintenance and repair costs. For people in this category it probably makes sense to buy and hold cars for a 10 year timeframe. The truth is that very few cars are worth anything after 5 years, and after 7- 10 years they become virtually worthless (relative to their original price). A $70k car might fetch $35k-$40k after 3 years. The same car after 5 years is probably worth $22–$25k, and after 10 years, $7–10k. It’s value as a car becomes more transportation oriented and less lifestyle oriented, and repair costs typically increase substantially, even with moderate use. What you buy and how frequently depends on what you value, and your approach for how you will deal with transportation-related expenses. Personally, I spend a huge amount of time in my car, so comfort and noise suppression are big factors for me. Thanks to an ugly traffic problem with no relief, I’m in my car over 4 hours a day to/from work. Cheap cars are great on the wallet, but you pay for it with your body and mind. I need as little stress from driving as possible, and this is what I have come to understand about my own needs. I have a high pressure, intense professional job already, so anything that contributes to more stress and anxiety is really bad for my health. This is what I value. As someone who drives 35–40k miles a year, I expect to rack up a lot of depreciation and maintenance costs. Cars that require expensive parts are to be avoided (Porsche, BMW, Audi, Mercedes) unless I can get them still under warranty. My basic premise is to buy as much car as I can reasonably afford, drive the wheels off of it, and then get rid of it before it has any major issues. My feeling is that once you realize that you’re always going to be making car payments, pick a level you can live with, get as much quality as possible and try to keep your repair and maintenance costs as low as possible. Due to the nature of my work and social life, I need a high quality car. I typically target 3 year old luxury cars with incredibly low mileage (often ‘fat cat’ lease returns), and I will pay a premium price for them (which is always going to be less than new car depreciation). This is what meets my requirements. It took a long time to get this formula dialed in. Everyone’s situation is unique, and of course a lot depends on your financial situation and the value that you place on transportation. One thing is for certain, however, and that is this: (with very few exceptions) every adolescent or adult in the U.S. has to have a car. We are a car society, and as a country we made the decision to standardize on cars (and not rail) in the 1950’s. As your situation and lifestyle changes, you may find that your needs and approach to satisfying that need has to change as well. Once things settle down you can act a bit more predictably, and this will translate to not changing your car as frequently. Hope that helps.

As an auto mechanic, what is the most memorable reaction someone had upon getting the repair bill?

Everywhere I worked the customer always knew what the bill would be, but I can think of two times they didn't like the estimate. 1st. 1996 Oldsmobile Aurora 4.0L basically a little Northstar with an oil leak. The leak was a maincap seal leak it's right about the oil pan and at the time the repair was drop engine and tranny with the subframe separate the two then roll the engine over on a stand to fix the leak. Later, we would simply work a deal with the transmission tech to pull the tranny then do the repair in vehicle after he had the transmission out. Most transmission guys only do transmissions. Either way lots of labor and the extended warranty did not cover seals and gaskets. So customer walks up to the writer and asks “So, what's the damage?” The service writer responds, “$1800”. To which the customer says “hmmm, where's the keys”. I don't remember exactly how much it was but it was high and I found it funny the guys instantly got the keys paid the check out and left. 2nd. Now at an independent repair shop a Precision Tune; the vehicle was like a 2006–8 VW Passat with HID headlights and had a headlight out. So I checked just a bad bulb. I called the parts store and list was like $800 and our cost was like $650. I can't remember what labor was but it was going to cost him just under $800. Our markup on parts didn't put it up to list and I think labor was low(could be wrong some VW repairs aren't easy). The customer went completely off when he heard the price. Screaming you guys are trying to rip me off I knew I shouldn't come here. I was the lead tech so I got to deal with all the pissed off customers. I finally got him listen and grabbed a phone book and told him call any parts store he wants and ask the price of the bulb but his is the HID. He called three cause he thought they were in with us trying to screw him then he called the dealer. All said and done he apologized and said this is ridiculous I am selling this f**king car. I can't blame him. I couldn't believe how much it was either. I know they are cheaper now, at least I would hope so. So that's the best I got. Well, I will share one more but doesn't exactly fit your question. 2005 Dodge Ram 3500 dually gas engine standard transmission. Complaining of brake fade, and says he has been to every shop in town(that should have been a big red flag). I pull the truck in after a short drive the pads are smoked burnt and brittle and the front rotors have lots of heat cracks and some bluing. I check and the rotors are way under spec. (I assume someone did a cheap pad slap didn't turn or check the rotors and shipped it probably charged for a full brake job.) I recommended a front brake job, new rotors and pads and said to price premium pads cause looks like he is towing something from the signs of heat. Customer agrees to everything cause he is not going back to the last place. I finish and take it for a drive and it will stop(damn near throw you through the windshield) . Customer picks it up and brings is back the next day. I check the pads are smoked again and rotors blued. We ask just what he is towing. Nothing. We warranty the parts and once again it stops great. The customer is back the next day complaining so I go for a ride with him. I've seen people drive hard but nothing like this. This guy drove with one foot always on the floor gas or brake and it's a 3500 not a sports car. Every stop was at the last minute, no gradual slow down, every stop was with the ABS(antilock brake system) engaged. I told him your brakes will never hold up to this kind of driving. He said “So, you're going to try and f**k me like everyone else!” I told him to head back to the shop. He got pulled over on the drive back for reckless driving( I could barely keep a straight face). My boss asks what the problem is and I drag him back to the office and tell him. The guy left pissed saying we ripped him off and he was going to take us to court. I don't know what happened at the other shops, but I did the proper repair based on what I saw when I got the truck, had I known how he drove I would have recommended no repair and that he go somewhere else. I can fix any vehicle with any problem it's only a matter of parts and labor, but I can't fix customers and they are the problem sometimes.

The chassis (frame and subframe) of my 98 Lincoln Town Car is corroded on the right side. If it were even possible to repair it, how much would it cost? My car keeps veering to the right whenever I drive or let go of the wheel.

I presume you live where salt is used to deice the roads and you have a serious corrosion and wheel alignment problem! Have a trusted mechanic inspect your car and estimate the cost to repair.You might be farther ahead to buy a new or newer car.

Does a Tesla car have very minimal maintenance costs?

Yes, that is true. I currently have 41k miles on the car. Here are the maintenance items that I have paid for on the car: Windshield washer fluid. Tires (at 40k miles). "Launches" in a P85 can be demanding on tires. Wheel alignment. Fun fact: because of regenerative braking, even the brake pads will likely last the life of the car. A Model S has fewer than 20 moving parts, excluding things like windows and climate control. An average family sedan has over 10,000 moving parts in just the drivetrain alone. The drive train of a Model S is just slightly more complicated than a blender. Just about all of the cost premium is in the batteries and the lightweight aluminum body. The motor is innovative (it is liquid cooled), but it's essentially the same thing that Nikola Tesla invented a century ago. If we had put 1/1000 of the resources we've spent over the past hundred years on battery electric vehicles as we have on hydrocarbon powered internal combustion engine cars, we'd all be driving electric cars today. EDIT: there is some controversy in my claim about 20 moving parts in the entire car. I will retract that and say that a more accurate comparison is between the drive trains in a BEV vs an ICEV. This discussion hashed out a lot of the particulars: ,http://my.teslamotors.com/it_IT/forum/forums/model-s-vs-ice-how-many-moving-parts,. The fact is that the complexity of the electric drive train is at least two orders of magnitude less than an internal combustion engine drive train. EDIT 2: I originally ended with: "Hopefully that will satisfy the pedants." The person to whom that was directed has deleted his response and my rebuttals, so it is no longer applicable. To those who politely pointed out my error without spewing a bunch of other inaccurate balderdash, thank you. EDIT 3: I now have over 72,000 miles on the car. I just got back from driving it from Florida to Reno and back for the grand opening of the Gigafactory. It was a very pleasant trip, no different from driving in an ICE except “fuel” was free and the accelleration was effortless. Since I wrote this post, I did have a warranty item on my Model S drive train. While the 50,000 mile bumper-to-bumper warranty has run out, the 8 year UNLIMITED mile drive train and battery warranty is still in effect until 2021. On the way back from a trip to Washington DC, I received the equivalent of a “check engine” light: “Accelleration has been limited, please call Tesla Support”. Which I did. It turns out there was a malfunctioning switch in the battery pack. While the car would drive just fine, accelleration was indeed limited. The remedy was interesting and very different from how it is handled in ICE cars. Since the battery pack is by far the most expensive item in the car, and does experience some natural degradation over time, Tesla sent the entire 1,000 lb battery pack back to Fremont for repair. While the battery was being repaired, I was given a “loaner” battery pack, which I used for daily driving and for another trip to DC. It took three months to repair the battery pack by replacing the faulty relays, but who cares? I had my Tesla and ran it just fine (actually slightly better since the loaner battery pack was newer than my pack) for the time I needed it. My point is that EVs have very different drive trains than ICEVs, and sometimes how they are repaired is very different. This may come to the dismay of “gearheads”, but electric drive trains spell the end of tinkering in the garage the same way that transistors mostly did away with the TV repairman. EDIT 4: I’m up to 131,000 on my 5.5 year old OG Model S P85. Still running like a champ. My drivetrain and battery warranty is still in effect, but I haven’t had to use it. I have had a few repair items since the last edit. I lost blinkers, wipers, tail lights and some other features controlled by the “body control module” (BCM). I had water incursion into my tail lights, requiring a complete replacement of the unit. I believe it is this incursion they caused the problem with the BCM by shorting out the lights. I had a broken subframe assembly. I don’t know how it happened - probably a bad pothole. Driver and passenger door handles broke and had to be replaced. My last set of tires only lasted about 30,000 miles. I have a de-lamination if the adhesive in the MCU (17” screen). A trip to Vegas got it started because of the heat. It is slowly dripping into the console tray. At the current rate, it will likely be gone by next year. My Bluetooth and Wi-fi radios are both flakey. I don’t really use them any more. They will pair with my phone, but drop out and reset randomly after 20–60 minutes. The remedies for all of these cost no more than comparable repairs on BMW or Audi. The BCM required a simple reset. Tesla Service recommended replacing it at $1200, but I told them no. It is holding up fine after 6 months after a simple reset. The tail light replacement was $800. That one is a common problem, and really should have been done under warranty 3 years ago. If moisture incursion is happening to you, insist on a replacement, even if it doesn’t look that bad. The subframe assembly was a whopper: $1800. The tech showed me the original, and it was a broken integrated bracket that was holding the axel in place. For an adventure, I bought a driver side door handle off E-bay for $120 and replaced it myself. It took me 8 hours for something that takes Tesla about 30 minutes. Which I had them do for $350 on the passenger side. Not sure why the latest tires wore out so fast. Wear was pretty even, so I don’t think it was alignment. Also, I actually drive more conservatively nowadays,and only do a few “launches” a year. The MCU is famously expensive, so I’m putting that off for a while. It still works, but it has a weird horseshoe shaped meniscus that is at about 1/4 of the screen now. I don’t use Bluetooth or WiFi much any more. The interior is holding up pretty well. I wash and vacuum it once a week. The paint still looks good even though I don’t fetishize the exterior finish. For example, washes are through an automated car wash. While there are a few micro-scratches and tiny gravel chips, only the most fastidious observer would think it’s a 5 year old paint job. I have lost about 20 miles of “rated range at 90% charge”. When it was new, I could charge to 235 miles@90%. Now, I get 215 miles@90%. It would be interesting to compare that with the loss of efficiency of an ICE over a similar time period. Loss of range seems to be decelerating. I’ve only lost 2 miles range over the past year.

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Review Post subframe repair cost

Review Q&A subframe repair cost

How many miles is too many miles on a used Cooper S?

Is the BMW 325/330 E46 a good first car?

What are the secrets in a car which only an automobile engineer knows?

What was the most amount of miles you have ever put on a single vehicle? Did the repair costs get progressively worse or better with time? Why did you decide to keep that vehicle for so long, was there a special connection between you and your ride?

Car Mechanics. What's an expensive (labour costs) job you've done on a vehicle that would have been cheap if the vehicle design was better?

What is the most difficult/complicated auto repair you've ever carried out, completely on your own?

Which is better, updating your car to a newer model every 2 or 3 years or keeping the same car as long as it lasts?

As an auto mechanic, what is the most memorable reaction someone had upon getting the repair bill?

The chassis (frame and subframe) of my 98 Lincoln Town Car is corroded on the right side. If it were even possible to repair it, how much would it cost? My car keeps veering to the right whenever I drive or let go of the wheel.

Does a Tesla car have very minimal maintenance costs?

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