Just days ago, the upcoming new generation 2021 Hyundai Tucson was spotted testing on the roads of South
2021 Hyundai Elantra online via their official Hyundai Facebook page on 10 December 2020 at 11 am!
The 2020 Hyundai Elantra will soon be getting the N accessories treatment.
We previously reported that the Hyundai Elantra is no longer on sale in Malaysia, now we have received
Aiming to sway prospective customers away from the Hyundai Elantra, the facelifted car sports a more
Lets find out.For this article, we compare the fifth-gen Hyundai Elantra, the Honda Civic FB, and the
Hyundai Malaysia has announced that the 2021 Hyundai Elantra is due to launch before the end of 2020.
Hyundai is busy these past couple of weeks.
overwhelmingly prefer the Grandeur, which is Hyundai’s flagship sedan.
Following last weeks media preview, Hyundai-Sime Darby Motor (HSDM) has announced prices for the all-new
Hyundai Malaysia has teased us with an image of the new Hyundai Elantra.
truck (95,194 units) and third-placed Hyundai Elantra (87,731 units).
** This article is the personal experience of a 2017 Hyundai Elantra Sport 1.6T owner and does not necessarily
The Hyundai Elantra is a pretty left-field choice if you’re looking for a C-segment sedan.
hydrogen fuel cell vehicle (HFCV) to be tested by the Insurance Institute for Highway Safety (IIHS), Hyundai
Hyundai ElantraHyundai unveiled the 2021 Hyundai Elantra sedan via YouTube stream at West Hollywood yesterday
The newly launched 2021 Hyundai Elantra now has a new accolade under its belt as it was recognised by
** This article is the personal experience of a 2019 Hyundai Elantra owner and does not necessarily reflect
Hyundai Motor Company is on a roll in the second half of 2020.
Hyundai Motor Company has revealed the first images of the upcoming all-new fourth generation 2021 Hyundai
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For Hyundai Elantra 2007-2012 Spectra Premium CU2928 Engine Coolant Radiator https://t.co/BYEO295mqr eBay https://t.co/JrBGkaQlnY
Car people: is this just coolant that wasn't cleaned off from when my radiator hose broke? Old leaked fluid burning off? 03 Hyundai Elantra https://t.co/2hHBj8t9nR
How to Replace Coolant Reservoir 07-10 Hyundai Elantra https://t.co/W3hrTFshlJ https://t.co/tICMSnxWvZ
LEAN BACK 2013 Hyundai Elantra came in with 3 issues. • Car not accelerating properly • Whining sound in Engine • Coolant boiling in radiator when Ac is on We found that the vehicle was running LEAN. In other words the engine wasn’t getting enough fuel ... https://t.co/SdLy2VS5ei
New post: Where Do I Put Coolant In My 2003 Hyundai Elantra? (http://cli.gs/JrPXE)
@MagmaDigest my #FavCar is hyundai elantra dear elantra ,if I was a car, I'd need some coolant, because you've got my engine overheating.p
Hyundai Elantra Sedan 2010 $4200 Good condition vehicle, clean gray interior. Fresh engine oil, fresh transmission fluid, fresh coolant. Good condition tires (Cooper) - 7/32. Maintenance was done in time. Found... https://t.co/XDXJzFhUKU
My car has new tires, shocks, coolant, and a bunch of other costly repairs, so watch out winter- this Hyundai Elantra will conquer you.
Bought a 2010 Hyundai Elantra yesterday due to the Saturn's head gasket cracking and oil getting into the coolant system.
2006 Hyundai Elantra question: How Much 50/50 Antifreeze Coolant Do I Add After A Flush - http://t.co/lmbBcUTn
Well read the code correctly. There has never been a code for intake manifold gasket. There are codes for misfire and temp too high and too low. But is you had to add more than say a quart of antifreeze then you have a leak somewhere. The cooling system is a closed system. I would GUESS that you have a head gasket leaking. The misfire when cold could be that the coolant evaporated when heated up or the heat caused the parts to expand and seal a little better. Take the car to a shop or the dealer for a proper diagnostic
You have a head gasket failure (or worse problem) in all probability allowing the oil galleries and coolant galleries (channels) in your engine to mix. Ultimately this will ruin your engine unless you get it fixed.
2018 Mustang Ecoboost w/101A package and 10R80 automatic. Pros: Lot of horsepower and torque from a 2.3L TGDI 4 cylinder. More power than many (most?) pre-2010 Mustang GTs with V8s. Good handling with an independent rear suspension compared to the pre-2015 Mustangs. Very affordable, I got a lot for my money: $27K, new in Feb 2018 - will be paid off by the end of the year. Easy to mod - since I’m retired this is more of a toy. There’s tons of mods out there for Mustangs, you can make them whatever you want. Easy to work on, too. Lots of room around the engine. I’ve only got a little over 14K miles on it but I’ve already added a lot: Magnaflow catback exhaust, Mishimoto stuff (intercooler, catch can, coolant overflow tank) , Ford Performance tune, lot of trim stuff, audio upgrades, etc. Plus more stuff that I want to do! If you drive without a heavy foot (it’s really hard) you can get decent gas mileage for a sporty car. It has great looks - personally I think it’s one of the best looking body styles ever for the Mustang. All external lighting is LED except for the rear side markers and backup light (I’ve since replaced those with LED) Nice to have the different drive modes, Sport + is really nice but your mileage will drop. Track apps is a nice touch, also nice to have the different track and speed functions (like 1/4 mile, 0–60, 0–30, lap times etc.). Line lock is more of a brag item, not really that useful unless you race. Maintenance is really easy to do, everything is fairly easy to get to. Sync 3 and the sound system is pretty good - even better with upgraded speakers and Phantom Fit sub box and sub amp in the trunk. Comfortable for two people which is all I wanted. The back seat is for stuff, only emergency use for people. Cons: It sits low, so for me it can be a pain at times getting in and out (I’m 65). Coming from my previous car, a 2013 Hyundai Elantra Coupe, it’s way too easy to speed. For the Coupe with a manual transmission, I had to work the engine and gears to get the best acceleration - so actually thinking about it and using skills somewhat. With the Mustang it is effortless - give it gas and it just keeps increasing speed like a rocket and that’s not flooring the pedal. This also falls into the con about gas mileage tanking when you drive more aggressively. Good quality summer tires are going to wear on this car - so it’s not cheap replacing the tires and I doubt I’ll get high mileage on them like the 60–80K high mileage All Seasons that they have for ‘touring’ sedans. But the plus side is I’m not racking up miles on them, either. Since it’s the base model with the added package, it doesn’t have all the driver aids that come on Mustangs with the safety packages. Only thing it really has is the backup camera and sensors, and I added a Curb Alert front parking sensor to save the splitter/lower front bumper cover. No back seat! Bigger (and heavier) ‘pony/muscle’ cars like the Challenger or Charger (ugh, 4 doors????) have usable rear seat room. Again, this was not a concern for me, I didn’t buy it for the back seat. This would never be a first car for a new family. Doesn’t have all the fancy ‘ambient’ lighting and digital dash that the Premium ones have. Stock, it doesn’t have a sound that makes you think Mustang. Unless you are flooring it the Ecoboost sounds like a Camry or Accord. Hence the first thing I did was install the aftermarket catback exhaust. You can really spend a ton of money modding this car. It’s addicting, so unless you know for sure you just want a daily driver and you don’t need all the extra seating and you want something that looks sporty but it’s ‘just a car’ then be forewarned. Not truly a con for me as I don’t get into trouble speeding or driving like a 17 year old, but tickets could be an issue if you let the car and street racers (or wannabes) control you. 3yr/36K warranty isn’t all that great, but then again it’s par for sports cars. On the plus side, so far haven’t had any issue with the car.
I want more evidence that the car is actually running at the right temperature because I’m not so sure it is. Verify the thermostat. Infrared non-contact thermometer guns can help. Also, check for a thermostat that’s stuck open rather than stuck shut. It could be too cold, no? What is the temperature it’s hanging out at when fully warm? Don’t guess. Measure it. If you’ve really verified that the cooling system is operating per spec, then double-check the actual signal coming from your new coolant temperature sensor. New doesn’t always mean working. Which sucks but that’s modern life for ya. And why are you doing this yourself on a 2019? How is it out of warranty so soon? Was it in a flood? That’ll mess with the electronics… If you can prove that the engine really is at the right temperature and that the sensor is reading right, you may have to check the wires from the sensor to the computer. Which will be Lots Of Fun let me assure you. But my money is on a thermostat that failed in a way you didn’t expect, which is keeping the car at a not-boiling-over-but-not-correct temperature thereby setting the code legitimately and correctly. I’d bet a glazed donut and a cup of coffee on it.
Car -maintenance- is NOT A REPAIR ! I lost a pic here….of an example. My 2009 Hyundai Elantra Touring , put on the New Timing Belt at factory prescribed 80,000. With a New Idler and Tensioner, Water Pump,Front Crank Seal ,Primary Drive and A/C Belts. This is the easiest and LEAST COSTLY time to replace these maintenance items. Only the Timing BELT is factory listed at these intervals for MANY Manufacturers. Usually the idler or tensioner included but not always. But nothing else makes as a proper procedures unless the horrors of budget limitations leaves one no option. Since it was now 7 years old I replaced the Factory Original Battery as well. This battery tested at about 80% capacity and is still powering a 12volt winch elsewhere to this day. I mention it because astonishingly it still LOOKED BRAND NEW ! Not a spec of corrosion anywhere ,but I swapped it out so that HOPEFULLY ,It can be a NON-ISSUE for another 7 years. I did change all the coolant of course and did the 4 brake bleed Brake Fluid change at the same time. NOTHING was broken when I chose to perform these chores. This car really has never broken ANYTHING ,but the 8yr old driver's window regulator , in now 9 years of ownership. It has but 99,000 on the odometer ,and I bought it back after it was total lossed. Just pointing it out,repairs are very often from NOT maintaining the machine.
What does this noise sound like? Normal operating sound of a cooling fan is a buzz/whir type sound and it can get loud. Modern ECMs(Engine Control Module) can limit power to the fans so they can run at Low or Medium or even if needed High Speeds. Heck most of the time they’re off unless you have the A/C running. The air rushing into the radiator is enough to keep the cars coolant at the correct temperature so no need to add extra electrical load by running fans. If the sound is not a buzz type sound but a squeaky or cattery sound which could mean damage to the radiator/fan assembly or a worn out fan.
Let’s compare two vehicles: a 2004 Western Star 4900EX, and a 1996 Hyundai Elantra wagon. The first is rear wheel drive with a longitudinal engine installation, and the radiator is roughly square. It’s a simple matter to mount one large fan, belt-driven by the engine, that covers a significant portion of the radiator’s area. The fan is controlled by a clutch, so it has 2 speed settings - off (no parasitic load on engine, relies on ram air cooling) and on (full parasitic load, forces air through the radiator). The Elantra is a front wheel drive with transverse engine mounting, so a belt-driven fan would blow air from one side of the engine bay to the other, rather than through the radiator. Also, the radiator is short relative to its width, so one fan would cover only a small part of the area. Two fans side by side will cover a significant part of the radiator area. As Ron Popeil would say, “wait, there’s more”. Due to the fan mounting considerations, they need to be electric rather than belt driven. Single-speed fans and “on/off” controllers are cheaper than variable speed. With two fans, you can, for virtually no cost, have almost the same effect as a two-speed fan, simply by turning on zero, one, or two fans. One fan is controlled by a coolant temperature sensor, and the second (only installed if the car has air conditioning) is only turned on if the first fan isn’t able to provide enough cooling (air conditioner running, or coolant temperature rises a set amount above switch point for first fan). This saves energy (power for electric fans comes from the alternator, which is a parasitic load) when some forced air cooling is needed but maximum forced air isn’t.
1987 Ford Escort base model. It was my sister’s car in high school, and it became mine after she left home. According to ,wikipedia ,it had a 68 hp engine, but from driving it, you could easily have been convinced that it had a 6 hp engine. It had no air conditioning, only an AM radio, and no power options of any kind (windows, steering, brakes, etc). I believe that we actually had major engine repairs done on it twice (the second time was my fault - low coolant led to a blown head gasket). I would put that car on the short list for worst cars ever produced anywhere in the world. The single saving grace of the car was that it was a manual transmission, and therefore I had to learn to drive a stick in order to have a set of wheels to call my own. Looking back on it now, I’m grateful I learned to drive a stick in high school. The Ford Escort might have been the single greatest reason why cars like the Honda Civic and Toyota Corolla eventually became two of the most popular cars in the US. My 2002 Hyundai Elantra, which I bought new, felt like a race car compared to the old Escort. My current Mazda 3, which shares some developmental lineage with the Escort, feels like a luxury racecar compared to it.
I would just add a little to Michael's answer. Be sure the engine is cold before you begin. Removing the radiator cap or coolant recovery tank cap before you start draining will make it easier to drain. The coolant recovery tank is usually a plastic tank like the antifreeze container under the hood connected by a tube to the radiator. Make sure after following Michael's instructions that the coolant level in the coolant recovery tank is at the full line.
I’ve done it twice. Back in the mid-90s I pulled the engine from my air cooled Volkswagen beetle under a maple tree in my parents front yard. I wasn’t replacing the engine, but I had to remove and reinstall it to replace the clutch. I was fairly inexperienced, having only done oil changes and brake jobs. I got the repair done, but I had to get a real mechanic to set the engine timing (rotating the distributor to the correct position because my pre-disassembly marks had rubbed off) before it would start and run. In the late 00’s I changed the engine on a $500 Hyundai Elantra. I installed a junkyard motor successfully and drove it for a few years before selling it. By then I had a lot of tools, a garage to work in, and a lot of diy experience. The trick is to follow a good service manual, take lots of pictures, keep the screws/nuts/bolts organized and labeled, label the connectors as you disconnect them, and to use penetrating oil like ,PB Blaster,* on the impossible-to-remove rusty fasteners like the exhaust connector bolts. For the Elantra, from memory, the tools I used were: 1/4″ Drive and 3/8″ Drive Socket sets, deep and standard depth. Great neck brand in a red blow molded case. I miss these tools. :( A 1/2″ drive breaker bar and deep impact sockets Sockets from Harbor Freight, Great Neck Breaker from Auto Zone. Still have them. I didn’t use an impact wrench. I didn’t have one at the time. I DID use a 5 foot long steel pipe for leverage on the breaker bar I broke a 3/8″ breaker bar this way. :( A full set of combination wrenches (Harbor Freight) Screwdrivers A prybar Car ramps (The Plastic ones from Rhino have lasted like forever.) A floor jack and jackstands AC Delco brand. I have a much better jack from Harbor Freight now. Oil and coolant drain pans Engine hoist (from the Auto Parts store) Chain to bolt to the engine for lifting This took up way too much space in the garage and I ended up selling it. Get one that folds up if you aren’t going to use it often. It took a full long exhausting day to pull it, a day to rest up, and a full long exhausting day to put the new junkyard engine in. In that car it was possible to pull the engine out of the top of the engine bay instead of from underneath. Even today I wouldn’t try an engine drop; without a lift I don’t have a way to get the car high enough to do it. Sidebar: Harbor Freight wasn’t around when I started tinkering in the 90s (or I was ignorant of it). I’m a little envious of how cheap starter tools are now compared to then. Dropping $80 for a boxed set of Craftsman wrenches from Sears ,hurt ,when you were making $4.35 an hour. Score one for globalism. I was a Craftsman girl for a very long time. It’s weird to say this, but I have to put a little disclaimer here. I have the knack for mechanical things; I always have. For a normal it might be much harder. I don’t know. I’ve never been normal.
Here are the Brand and variants of Hyundai Elantra:
Variants | 2018 Hyundai Elantra 2.0 Executive |
Brand | Hyundai |
No, Hyundai Elantra doesn't have Screen.
Here are the Seat Features(Rear) and variants of Hyundai Elantra:
Variants | 2018 Hyundai Elantra 2.0 Executive |
Seat Features(Rear) | 60:40 Split-folding |