horsepower apex yamaha
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Sepang Circuit CEO Razlan bids goodbye, replaced by Azhan
than 13 years, and also spearheaded Petronas motorsports sponsorship side close to a decade.Petronas Yamaha
Honda Civic driven against traffic, causes 4 vehicle pile-up in Penang
four-vehicle pile-up.The pile-up involved the aforementioned Civic, a Perodua Myvi, a Proton Exora, and a Yamaha
The 2020 Toyota Harrier gets a sporty GR body kit in Japan
An anti-sway bar made by Yamaha is installed to reduce body roll and helps to increase stability during
Video: Chasing a FD2R in the Proton Saga R3 racecar on Sepang!
car comprises of a racetrack-tuned 1.6-litre naturally aspirated engine with 170 – 180-wheel horsepower
2020 BMW 330e (G20) replaces 330i in Thailand, Malaysia to follow?
a maximum output of 292 PS and 420 Nm of torque. 0-100 km/h is zapped in 5.9 seconds.The additional horsepower
Are wider tires better for your car or just plain stupid?
used when you turn.Lateral grip will help you keep the car sticking to the tarmac when you hit the apex
WapCar Morning Insiders (Oct. 9, 2019)
for under RM 200k, possible but the results might surprise youIt wasn’t very long ago when 200 horsepower
Woman admits she was drunk while in driver's seat, hits 2 bikes
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Experience the power of the Lam-bull-ghini!
We have always known the term “horsepower” as a measure of the power output a car engine
200 PS for under RM 200k, possible but the results might surprise you
It wasn’t very long ago when 200 horsepower was exclusive only to high performance cars.
New Golf GTI, Sorento and E-Class; 7 new released models coming to Malaysia!
newly redesigned cabin.Power comes from the reworked 2.0-liter turbo four-cylinder which now makes 241 horsepower
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expertise, but not so much about its long-term viability.Cosworth is like the British equivalent of Yamaha
Watch out criminals! The Proton X70 police cars are on their way!
Proton Waja, Preve, and Inspira models.Alongside the Honda Civic, it looks like PDRM will be adding more horsepower
HP vs torque: Does torque really matter?
An actual horse doesn’t produce 1 horsepower. It produces about 14.5 horsepower.
A newer, more powerful Toyota GR Supra is coming to Malaysia
fjs.parentNode.insertBefore(js, fjs); }(document, script, facebook-jssdk)); As if the GR Supra needed any more horsepower
Wapcar Morning Insiders (Sep. 25, 2019)
The base 4.0-liter V6 produces 275 horsepower and 394 Nm of torque.
Japan's 2021 Toyota Camry gets RM 35k worth of GR parts - best daily next to GR Yaris?
The Yamaha-designed damper is the only performance part GR currently offers for the Camry, but we reckon
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Yamaha co-developed the engine and together, they’ve tuned the V10 symphony to perfection.Mazda
Let's take a look at Mazda’s electrified rotary engine, launching in 2022
C111 Concept) gave up on it, Mazda was the only manufacturer who persevered and solved the inherent apex
320 PS/litre! Top-5 cars with the most horsepower per litre
Review Post horsepower apex yamaha
2008 Yamaha apex 1000 turbo w/ 174 by 3 inch track. Over 400 horsepower, thats a little over kill buddy. http://t.co/0LkQznnY
My only love <3 #yamaha #apex #snowmobile #bwaap #fast #horsepower #4stroke http://t.co/nY4LFAV6wr
The Genesis four-cylinder engine found in Yamaha's 2012 version of the Apex XT-X pumps out roughly 150 horsepower.... http://t.co/K0UACRft
Apples vs. oranges?(Yamaha's 150 horsepower Apex allowed to takepart in Cadarette Collision Racing): An article fr http://t.co/Y2BPo5hT
Listen to that engine purr. Jason Cook from Rallye Motoplex highlights an amazing deal on a 2014 Razor 1000. With a 165 horsepower Yamaha Apex engine it's the fastest Side by Side in Atlantic Canada! Clocked at 95... https://t.co/HbQ2XrsUPb
#Repost arb_tuning ・・・ 2020 Haydays ProX-55 prediction... 3.6Xs 😉. #yamaha #apex #proline #prox55 #snowmobile #snowmobileracing #racing #turbo #horsepower #boost #arbtuning #ingvallmotorsports #lentzkowracing… https://t.co/BKoJJdv0Wb
Review Q&A horsepower apex yamaha
When designing piston engines, how does firing order and degrees apart on a crank translate to power? Would a V8 that fired all 8 pistons at once have more torque and little horsepower?
When designing piston engines, how does firing order and degrees apart on a crank translate to power? Would a V8 that fired all 8 pistons at once have more torque and little horsepower? The other answers so far have mostly focused on the second question you asked. Let me shed some insight on the first question. The firing order, and spacing of the crank throws (number of degrees apart) relate more to power delivery, not to the raw amount of power produced. In most applications, as others have stated, smooth power delivery is desirable, for lower vibration: which in turn leads to longer engine life, comfort of vehicle occupants, and so on. So the engineers typically try to design in a way to minimize undesirable vibration. But in some applications, some unevenness in power delivery is desirable. The most obvious example I can think of is in ,racing,, for both cars and motorcycles. Most kinds of racing are not just about how much power an engine can put out, traveling in a straight line; they require the vehicle to navigate curves lap after lap either on a road, or off-road course. The problem arises because either the current state of tire technology, or the condition of the road surface, is not “grippy” enough to allow full power to be applied without losing some traction and skidding or “laying rubber.” (This also occurs in straight-ahead “drag races” with very-high-powered vehicles, as is probably more well known.) If the available traction from the tires is not sufficient to “hook up” with the road surface while in a turn, at full power, the race driver / rider of a high-powered engine that has ,smooth, power delivery has basically 3 options: Roll off on some of the power, to reduce torque and therefore allow the tires to “bite” the surface better; Skid/slide/drift around the turn, with the rear (driven) wheel(s) kicking out toward the outside of the turn, so that full throttle can be maintained throughout the turn and let the tires “hook up” at full power once the vehicle starts to straighten out its path after the apex of the turn; or spin out and crash, as the driven tires completely lose traction. Modulating the border between #2 (a controlled drift) and #3 (crashing) can be pretty tricky, if the engine is somewhat “peaky,” that is, has a torque / horsepower curve that has a steep slope just before reaching maximum power, rather than a relatively “flat” torque curve over a wider range of engine speeds. The “flat” curve is desirable for actual public-road transportation devices, but often, squeezing the maximum power out of available displacement by use of radical cam profiles and ignition timing, etc., leads to peakier torque curves. So, it’s hard to tell when a twist of the throttle grip, or a push on the pedal, will yield just a bit more power to beat out the other guy, or too much more power, to send you into the ditch. In a multi-lap race, the chances of winding up in the ditch (on race vehicles with that kind of characteristic) was too great, so the riders / drivers tended to ,throttle down, during turns more than they otherwise would have to, when their mount was such a machine, giving up precious split-seconds to the competitors. Then the engineers came up with a 4th solution that let racers keep the heat on in turns even if they had a high-powered, peaky engine under them. That was to stagger the firing order so that instead of relatively smooth delivery, the engine would put out power in short bursts in between longer periods of “resting” mode (no power production), even at full throttle. This allowed the tires to “hook up” with the road surface again in between power pulses, and avoid unwanted skidding. A racer equipped with such an engine thus gained an advantage over competitors with lower-powered engines or without the staggered power pulses. I can think of two examples off the top of my head: first, in motorcycle racing, the Yamaha R-1 1,000cc road-going racer replica (and the pure-racer versions Yamaha makes for track-only work) have a “cross-plane” crankshaft in their 4-cylinder-in-line engines, unlike the “flat plane” crank used in almost all other 4-in-line engines which produces a smoother power output. Second, on a Vee-type engine in cars, the relationship of smoothness to crank design is the opposite of inline-fours; to achieve smoothness in V-8 output, a cross-plane crank has long been the standard. However, some newer production models with high-powered engines, notably the Ford Mustang Shelby GT and some Ferraris, use a flat-plane crank in their V-8s to let them apply more power in a turn (and thus achieve higher in-turn speed than competitors) without losing tire traction. This web page has a good summary of the issues and choices, pros and cons: Quick Tech: Crossplane vs. Flat Plane Crankshafts Explained As to motorcycles in particular, see: What are the Benefits of a Flat-Plane Crankshaft? Hope that adds a bit more info on why a designer would actually want to do something like what OP was asking about.
Can I do a race in MotoGP?
Yes, absolutely! Believe in your dreams, isn’t that what they all say? You will need a couple of things, so just to help you out I put together a quick list. This isn’t in order, and remember: you do need everything on the list. This list is NOT complete, these are just the basics. You’ll need a bit of judgement at speed. It’s fairly critical you figure out how to take a long, usually one kilometer or so straight, at 210 MPH (give or take), and then you must know when to brake. Remember: No coasting! You can only ride full on the throttle, and then full on the brakes. Then you must turn the bike into the apex at just the right moment. You’ll need a competent knowledge of when to accelerate again. This means knowing when to go to full throttle—but don’t forget, it has to be as soon as possible. It’s a bit of a tricky mixture of balancing your extreme-and-decreasing lean angle, while rapidly feeding in enough power to accelerate at the absolute maximum, without getting it wrong. Remember: No high-siding allowed! You’ll need to figure out how to steer with the back wheel. Don’t worry, that clever traction control will (hopefully) save you—just yank that throttle hard, and hang on! …But you have to be able to manage the slide at the rear as the bike starts to come around and the back wants to overtake the front. Remember: No pointing in the wrong direction! You’ll need the aerobic fitness of an Olympic athlete, and strength in exactly the right muscle groups as well. MotoGP machines have a bit of horsepower, so it puts some strain on your body. You have to be strong enough to flick the bike—under control remember!—from corner to corner. You have to be able to hold on while accelerating to 210 MPH (give or take), and you have to be able to hold nearly 2G (around double your body-weight) when you’re on the brakes. There’s a bit more. You also have to have the power to lift your body from side to side as the bike transitions while accelerating hard, and you have to have the strength to hold everything up on your knee or elbow if you’re waiting for that pesky traction to come back. And you have to do it for corner after corner, lap after lap, for a bit over forty minutes. Remember: No going to ‘Mapping 8’! You’ll have to be lithe and flexible enough to tuck yourself in on the straights, and still be able to see. It gets quite noisy on a MotoGP bike, partly from the rabid howling of the engine, and partly from the 210 MPH (give or take) hurricane you should hide from. If you lift your head above the bubble above 200 MPH you’ll wrench your neck a bit—and you’ll lose speed too. Remember: stay tucked in! You’ll need to be fairly precise with your riding. Remember: smooth is fast! You have to be able to pick exactly the right line through every corner, within a foot or so. No getting it wrong! If you do drift off line a tad—and nobody’s perfect, right? …then you must be able to pull the bike back on line otherwise you’ll run off the track into the scenery. You’ll need to know the right lines around every racetrack, through every corner, plus a few variations in case you get pushed off line for some reason. Remember: No turning in early! Otherwise you’ll run out of room on the corner exit and you’ll run off the track into the scenery. No turning in late! Otherwise you won’t get the bike turned in time …and you’ll run off the track into the scenery. You’ll need to be able to drift/slide both the tires through every corner. Everyone thinks that tires produce grip all the way until they don’t… but that’s not quite true. There’s a little bit of a ‘gray’ area between the unbridled joy of full tire grip …and sliding into the scenery. You’ll need to find that gray area and be able to ride within that sliver of control on every corner. No wimping out now! If you’re not sliding the tires, you’re just not going fast enough. Kevin Schwantz once described riding a MotoGP bike to be like “sprinting along the edge of a cliff”. Get your Nikes on! You’ll need a bit of mental strength, because you are now a professional. Having a bit of a tough day? Shrug it off buddy, go out and ride the bike! Crashed? Too bad! Get back to the pits as fast as possible, get on your back-up bike, and go out again. And make sure you attack that same corner with exactly the same 100% commitment! A little frightened the same thing might happen? Too bad! Need time to warm up? Too bad! No, you’re a professional racer and one of the fastest people in the world. So it’s as fast as you can go, everywhere, right from the first second you get on the bike. There’s no such thing as “I don’t feel like it today”, or “I’m scared from that last crash” or “one of my body parts is broken” or “I had an argument with my other half last night”. No excuses! If you’re hurt, the nice people at the Clinica Mobile will give you a shot or three to dull the pain for about half the race, and after that you just ignore the warning signs your body is telling you and go on to the win! Similar to that last point, you’ll need to be prepared to sacrifice your body. Friendly hint: It helps to be mentally detached enough so that you can refer to your various vulnerable parts in the third person. “The wrist is healing nicely, thank you for asking” …etcetera. Tore your eye retina and got double vision? No problem, there’s a surgery for that! Remember, you don’t own your body—the sponsors and crowd do! If it breaks, figure out how to fix it as fast as possible. Compound leg fracture? No problem! Aragon is in three weeks and you have to finish at least fourth. You’ll need a bit of courage. Things happen quite fast on a MotoGP bike. Scared by 210 MPH (give or take)? Don’t be! What’s the worst that can happen? A little concerned about riding on the absolute edge of traction surrounded by like-minded lunatics trying to beat you for 40 minutes? Don’t be! What’s the worst that can happen? Somebody scraped their front or back tire across your arm/shoulder/leg/helmet in that last corner? Remember: It’s all part of the fun! You’ll need to speak English and no, Google Translate on your phone isn’t good enough. If English isn’t your first language, sorry, but you have to learn it, and learn it well. Once you’re winning regularly everyone will want to interview you, and you mustn’t come across as ‘robotic’ or ‘grumpy’. Remember: Don’t ever give away that you’re angry or upset! No! …otherwise the sponsors will be annoyed and you’ll lose your precious ride, and/or the fans will start hating you. Remember: You’ll need a thick skin when they’re booing you on the podium in Australia! You’ll need a good resume. I assume you’ve won a World Championship or two in the smaller classes already, so make sure your background is well publicized and that you can present yourself professionally at all times. Remember: Smile! And make sure you can pronounce all the sponsors names correctly! If you have all the above, plus a whole bunch of other stuff I’ve forgotten to mention, then you’ll make a fine MotoGP racer. You’ll earn tons of money and have a great life—after you’ve retired and don’t have to be in the gym, training 24/7. Here’s a picture of a MotoGP racer on the brakes. It’s Andrea Dovizioso when he rode for Yamaha Tech 3 a few years ago. Zoom in on the tires, it’ll give you an idea of what these guys do. [picture by Ara Ashjian]
Why are pistons in a piston engine round?
Remember that a simplest solution to a problem is often the best. A round peg fits nicely in a round hole. As noted, it is easier to bore a round hole and the engine lathe is inherently designed to make round objects. As to round pistons, or other than round? Sure, why not? It has been done before, decades ago. First off, the pistons in modern IC engines are not round. They only approximate “round” when within the design operating temperature range, even with the controlled expansion of hyper-eutectic aluminum alloys. Early pistons were cast iron with slots in the skirts to control expansion. It is not that long ago that steel plates were cast into aluminum pistons to also control expansion. Modern design IC pistons have a varying, measured diameter that deviates slightly from the nominal, by design, to control the uneven expansion. This is due to the varied masses distributed about the piston that cause differing expansion rates. This is the cam-ground finish diameter. Second: Honda tried to design a 500cc Grand Prix four stroke motorcycle to compete with the overwhelming two stroke fours that dominated the circuits at that time. Their solution was to design a combustion chamber with the breathing capability equivalent to a four banger ring ding. Their solution was an oval combustion chamber with as many valves as possible. (Remember the five valve Yamaha?) An oval combustion chamber cried for an oval bore and a piston to match. It was essentially a four cylinder engine with only two pistons, though a full set of valves and a pair of connecting rods to support the long axis of each piston. It was a tour-de-force but never reached competitive horsepower and was not developed farther after the first development phase concluded. And who can forget the NSU-Wankel trochoidal engine with the geared piston timed to rotate while the apexes of the device wobbled about the casing to form the successive trio of combustion chambers?
What are types of motorbikes?
Types of motorbikes/motorcycles ? I'll give it a shot. Motorcycles are classified into several categories based on various parameters (like design, operating terrain and intended conditions). So, let's discuss the broad classifications first. Tourers These are the motorcycles that are built to go long distance, like cross country distances on the asphalt. These come with all sorts of engine configurations that are tuned for effortless power (,smooth torque and horsepower curves are a characteristic feature of these motors,) These motorcycles come with all sorts of luggage carrying accessories (,saddle bags, panniers, tank bags and such are avaible as accessories if not stock), to aid tourers. These are the rider centric machines with softer suspension setups with helps provide a better ride quality while compromising on their corner carving capabilities The 2017 BMW R1200RT is a typical sports tourer. The 2016 Yamaha FJR1300 Nakeds These are the manufacturers offerings to the fun seeking crowd that couldn't be bothered less with lap times and top speeds. These Motors are tuned for a smashing low and mid range torque and lower power than their supersports counterparts. These motorcycles are absolutely fun to ride and the riding posture is upright and relatively comfortable. These don't come with a fairing (hence the name) thereby leaving you to admire the motor in all its glory. The suspension is tuned to urban environments rather than outright racetracks. The 2017 KTM SuperDuke 1290r is a monster in its own right Far lower in the power tree, lies the 2017 MV Agusta Brutale 800R Supersports These are the motorcycles that are faired and have an engine capacity of above 600cc to around 1000cc in various configurations. These are called as such due to the ,Aggressive riding posture these motorcycles demand and the engine characteristics (high power figures with relatively lower torque) Note:- (,Not the case recently with the advent of the KTM RC series and Yamaha R15 with can also be classed under this category eventhough they have 373.2cc, 199.8cc {RC 390 & RC 200} and 149.98cc engines respectively) These machines are built for one purpose, to obliterate track records and look good while they are about it. So stuff like riding comfort and long distance touring aren't the parameters here. Their stiff suspension setups (that are often fully adjustable, on the fly) are primarily focussed on carving them corners and hitting the perfect apexes. The ride quality on these is probably the worst (after off roaders of course) The 2016 Aprilia RSV4 RF WideBody.. The 2016 Triumph Daytona 675r. Hypersports These come dangerously close to being classed into the category of the oddballs, but all the motorcycles in this class share one common power figure, that is >200HP at the rear wheel. This number changed the ball game for good. The Kawasaki’s 1398cc ZX-14R, ,(210HP) is a returning champion in this class after staving off the Hayabusa (which has <200HP, 173 horses to be precise). But the absolutely savage H2 (232HP) and the blasphemous H2R (326HP) are in a league of their own. The class should speak for itself when something as exclusive as the 1299 Panigale Superleggera from the stables of Ducati barely makes it in (205HP),. Ducati Panigale 1299 Superleggera 2016 Kawasaki ZX-14R 2016 Kawasaki H2R, 326HP supercharged monster. All Terrain /Scramblers . These are those lean motorcycles that you see going over the sand dunes and through the streams with ease. These have the motors with cubic capacities of about 250cc to 800cc. These are tuned for torque. Top speed isn't the priorlity here. The long suspension travel also allows the vehicle to operate in all sorts of rough terrains. These come with comparatively frugal engines. 2016 Honda CRF 450x 2016 KTM 450 SX F Cruisers These are the no nonsense motorcycles that are more of a lifestyle choice than anything else. These are heavy (weighs >300 Kilos dry) and come with big engines. These Engines are also tuned for more low end torque or pulling power (to haul all of that weight). Harley Davidson is said to have pioneered this segment that is now filled with players like The Indian , MotoGuzzi and Victory amongst others. 2017 Indian Scout ABS 2017 MotoGuzzi MGX21 Flying fortress 2016 Honda Goldwing GL1800 2016 Harley Davidson Breakout softtail Custom Builds These are the bikes that are built to order. These are not usually mass produced and are fabricated to the riders needs. Every custom motorcycle is unique and specific to that rider. These include types like ,cafe racers, bobbers and choppers based on the riding posture and body shape of the motorcycle., These deserve a separate categorisation of their own. 2016 Harley Davidson Street 750 by Rajputana Customs A street 750 with a Café racer kit Street 750 with full on bobber treatment Odd Balls These are the niche products from the manufacturers that were intended to fit in one of the above classes but ended up sticking out all on their own. The Ducati Diavel is one example that comes to mind. The Cruiser from Ducati that didn't fit in with the crowd. So, what is it ? A sports tourer ? a naked with long wheelbase ? a supersports trying to be a cruiser ? one can never say. but what it is, is fast as it is drop dead gorgeous. Feast your eyes with the 2016 Ducati xDiavel S Commuters, (and Scooters, mopeds & the rest of this breed) These are the most boring motorcycles one can come across. These are geared for two things. Efficiency and reliability. These come with small engines and sometimes without many gears (Scooters). This provide the comfort of not switching gears while commuting in city traffic along with lower running costs. This class also deserves a separate run down due to the sheer number of variations it contains. The 110cc Hero CD Delux Vespa Primevera, the VW, ,Beetle of the two wheeled world. Note:- I know I left many other motorcycle types but if you think about it, all those are just different variations of the above listed classes and I try to keep my answers short and concise.
What is a good starter motorcycle for recreational open highway riding?
What is a good starter motorcycle for recreational open highway riding? First, we need to know what ,you, mean by “starter.” What you mean by “recreational.” And what ,you, mean by “open highway riding.” I personally find it somewhat nuts that the common wisdom today recommends anything over 500cc as a ‘starter” bike for anyone, if by that you mean your first motorcycle ever, on which you expect to learn how to ride. That 500cc mark is the limit for most Motorcycle Safety Foundation beginner courses, for example. However, let’s work our way backwards to that. If you are interested in a “cruiser” type bike, which mostly feature slow-turning, long-stroke, high-torque twin-cylinder engines that are not going to suddenly zoom you up to triple-digit speeds before you can even glance at the speedometer, then maybe you would want to start with something a bit bigger, such as an 883cc Harley-Davidson Sportster. Do you know there was a time, in my living bike-riding memory, when the 883 Sportster was duly tested and touted by the November 1969 Cycle Magazine which declared it as, the fastest street bike ,they had ever tested. Yes, it’s true, as this Cycle World article shows: more Hoyer!! 1969 sportsters!! But, then there’s this: Why is the Harley Davidson sportster considered a girl's bike? Oh, my, how our perception evolves over time. And how the baseline standard of performance motorcycles has been raised, by leaps and bounds, in 50 years! Even though some “cruiser” riders consider the 883 Sportster a “starter” bike, or a “girl’s” bike, I still recommend new riders start on something smaller, under 500cc. If you want sporty, there are plenty of sporty options of that size or less, including the Kawasaki Ninja 500 or 300, the Honda CB300 or Rebel 250 or 500, the Yamaha YZF-3 (300cc class) or V-Star 250 (V-twin cruiser styled), and the Suzuki GSX-250R (fully faired sport bike) or TS-250 (single-cylinder standard “naked” bike). I’m not going to link to road test reports, etc. on any of these; you know how to Google, right? In general, here’s what I would recommend for a beginner: Get the ,type, of bike you think you will want to ride when you graduate to a bigger bike (or, maybe, stay with the one you have). That is, if you want “cruiser” styling and laid-back “recreational” riding, get a cruiser — either one of the great small-displacement Japanese models, or a Sportster 883. You do NOT want anything bigger than that for a beginner bike. Get something relatively, lightweight,, ,simple,, and ,cheap,. You’re a beginner. You don’t know if you’re going to really like this sport yet, right? So why invest in something heavy, fast, and expensive, that is complicated to maintain, and that can easily get ahead of you speed-wise and get you into trouble much faster than you can anticipate? Don’t be a fool, even though fools are a dime a dozen. Besides, if you’re going to crash it (don’t worry, you, will,), the lighter, cheaper, and simpler the bike is, the less likely it is to put a dent in your wallet. For both cost and size reasons, I do ,not, recommend any of the European models (BMW, Triumph, Dutati, etc.) as “beginner” bikes. None of those makes bring anything to the US that is at or under 500cc. (They used to, in large numbers; if you want a used bike or a “classic,” that widens your options considerably. But, think about maintenance cost too, and maybe a beginner ought to stick with a new or at least late-model Japanese bike for starters). If you think you might want to ride a “sport” bike once you get the hang of it, you may want to start out with a fully-faired small sportbike (avoid anything 600cc or bigger; stay below 500cc) but keep in mind that ,when, (not ,if,) you crash it,, replacing the plastic “body” shell is going to be expensive. ,On the other hand, if you get a “standard” or “naked” model, most of the time if you drop it (not crashing into something — that usually totals the bike regardless of type — but simply losing traction and falling over onto its side and sliding on the road) the harm done will be minimal, and it may not even need a repair, other than, say, re-adusting the rear-view mirrors, or replacing a bent brake lever or gearshift lever. (Of course, you the rider should wear a HELMET and other protective gear at all times, or take the risk of serious, possibly fatal, injury from an otherwise-survivable fall). Now, ,that’s, a feature that a beginner ought to really appreciate. Think about what you mean by “recreational” riding. If your desire is simply to feel the wind in your face and toodle along through the scenery, you do NOT want a high-powered supersport bike that will not be happy unless it is pegging the tach at supralegal speeds and giving you the “red-eyed monster” of speed sitting on your shoulder, telling you to go faster and faster. But if your idea of “recreational” riding is “extreme sports” in which you push yourself to the limits of your machine and your own ability, then a sportbike is exactly what you want — but for starters, keep it, small,. Please do take a beginning rider safety class. And gain confidence in your ability to control the machine in all kinds of conditions, at common road speeds, before you take it into, heavy traffic,. The biggest danger to motorcyclists is ,other vehicles,. In any event, ride at all times with ,a paranoid eye for other vehicles on the assumption they are all trying to kill you,, and that will be your best bet to keep that from happening. If what you mean by “open highway” riding is mainly, curvy two-lane backroads ,in rural areas, that’s a great place to learn to ride AND one of the most fun parts of street motorcycling, in my opinion. These are roads where many of the curves demand low maximum speeds well within the capability of even the smallest current road bikes, and cruising speeds on the straight, flat parts of maybe 50–70 mph, which even the 250cc models I listed above can do easily. You probably don’t want anything smaller than 250cc if you seriously want to tackle “open road” riding for any distance, or for touring, though it, can, be done. Back in the 1970s I put many highway miles, including several trips of 1000 miles or more, on a now-considered-tiny Honda CL175 twin that could cruise all day at 80 mph and had a top speed of around 85. Plenty fast enough for me. If you want a “big” bike to impress the girls or your friends, maybe stop and think why you really want to ride, and whether you will learn the skills you need to be a good rider if you start out on a machine that is so big you will be afraid to take it to the limit of its capability — or, if you ignore your fear and do so, finding out at just the wrong time that the machine’s power can get you ,into, trouble much faster than your limited skill set can get you ,out, of trouble. You really learn more — a LOT more — about how to be a truly good rider, if you start out with what some people call a “momentum” machine — that is, one whose good “lap times” through the twisties depends on ,keeping up your speed and leaning, the bike properly into a well-formed “race line” (entry, apex, exit) rather than grabbing a big handful of brake to slow down for each curve then relying on brute horsepower and torque to spool you back up on the exit. A good rider on a small, nimble machine can easily keep up with an average rider on a much larger machine, in the twisties. Of course, the big bike is going to walk away from you on the straightaways. But is that really the reason you ride? Especially on the public highways, I think not. The real challenge is the twisties. If you really want to impress your friends, learn how to keep up with their 600cc+ mounts, riding your 250 or 300 or 500cc “beginner” bike. Any of the models I listed above will give even an experienced rider plenty of satisfaction, if ridden with skill and wringing the maximum available performance from the machine. My personal favorite for both around-town and open-road (two lane twisties) riding is the Kawasaki Ninja 250, predecessor of their current 300cc model. It’s a “momentum” bike, all right, but no slouch in the straight-line speed department, either; it will cruise all day at over 90 mph. For “recreational” riding, that’s plenty fast. You may THINK you want to go faster than that on the highway, but the state police as well as your orthopedist will probably beg to differ. Stay safe, have fun, and keep in mind that wide-open-throttle gonzo riding on a 250cc bike is a lot more fun than putt-putting along at a fraction of the capability of a much larger machine — and that wide-open-throttle gonzo riding on anything bigger than 500cc ought to be reserved for experts who already know what they are doing AND are willing to assume the risk, preferably ,on a closed track, rather than the public highways. Hope you found this answer helpful. Keep the rubber side down!
Beranda