tyre noise comparison
Artikel Terkait tyre noise comparison
3-cylinder engine vibration, noise, and reliability: Still a problem?
housedoktorHave things improved over the years for three-cylinder engines when comes to vibration and noise
Tyre blowout while driving: This is how you maintain control and avoid crashing
response that will either save you and/or your car to see another light of the day.What causes a tyre
Have you ever wondered what Bibendum on your tyre wall is pointing at?
How do you check your tyre wear?
Owner Review: Follow-up story of Proton Waja tyre burst out at 180km/h -Full story
reflect the views of WapCar.Facebook: Sharviin Sasasey ManigamSince everybody was asking about my busted tyre
Ratings Comparison: Proton X70 vs Honda CR-V vs Mazda CX-5 - Ride comfort
So let’s dive into a comparison of ride comfort between the Proton X70, Honda CR-V, and Mazda CX
Ratings: Top 10 quietest cars we've tested - 6 cylinders quieter than electric?
One aspect that can be quantified is noise level.
Pros and Cons - 2020 Toyota Corolla Altis 1.8 G – When you choose comfort over power
The soft suspension setup is complemented by the plush seats for all passengers.Con – Cabin noise
When was the last time you checked your tyre pressure?
I also can’t remember the last time I pumped air into my tyres, let alone checking the tyre pressure.It
Run flat tyres, tyre repair kits, or spare tyres. Which is best?
Your car ownership experience isn’t complete without having at least one flat tyre incident.
New Michelin Pilot Sport tyres launched! But it’s only for EVs
If you’ve been following Formula E closely, you would know that Michelin has been the sole tyre
Toyo Tires Proxes CR1 launched in Malaysia – Improved safety and priced from RM 160
The Poxes CR1 uses noise reducing materials inside the tyre.Pitch noise is dispersed by the silent wall
Road traffic noise in Malaysia has risen at least 19% compared to 10 years ago
A study done by the Universiti Teknologi Malaysia’s (UTM) Institute of Noise and Vibration shows
Here's the top tyre choices for 13- to 17-inches in 2020!
not much cheaper, really.RecommendationsNot all tyres are equal, so in this guide well list five main tyre
How sneaker makers like Nike can teach tyre companies about influencing its buyers
It is amazing how much time and internet juice is spent trying to explain that tyre choices matter.
J.D. Power study: Michelin is best tyre brand of 2021, outranks Pirelli, Goodyear
Powers 2021 Original Equipment Tyre Customer Satisfaction Survey.Michelin Pilot Sport 4 on the Honda
Deal breakers: Honda CR-V – love its practicality and fuel economy, not its cabin noise
At 110 km/h we measured the CR-V’s cabin’s noise level at 70 dB, versus the Proton X70 (CBU
Owner Review: Tyre blown out at 180km/h - Near-miss experience in my Proton Waja
was late for her class and I was late for work.So as I was driving and then suddenly my front right tyre
Pros and Cons: Proton X70 – Great on comfort, not-so-great on fuel
X70 are also nicely sculptured and supportive.Cabin insulation is also top notch with minimal rolling noise
All-new 2020 Honda Accord vs Toyota Camry – Specs comparison
If you think this will be another boring uncle’s car comparison, you’re in the wrong, because
Maintenance cost comparison: Proton X50, Honda City, Mitsubishi Xpander - Which car is the cheapest?
at the 36-month/60,000-km mark, that bumps the overall service cost to RM 911.41.Don’t forget tyre
Review Post tyre noise comparison
Equipped with SILENTRIB GENERATION 2, MICHELIN #Primacy4ST is the most silent tyre in comparison to other premium brands*; ensuring less interior cabin noise for a peaceful drive. https://t.co/DQagRjFXK5 https://t.co/xuw3BDPsDQ
..Argument about the bullshit over EV's being dangerous to pedestrians because lack of engine noise. What a crock. A modern Camry & a Tesla make the same noise level because it's road tyre noise. Engine noise from modern 4cylinder engines is near on non existent in comparison.
Interesting comparison. Shame that as soon an EV starts moving >20mph tyre noise becomes dominant. This suggested noise level decrease is misleading. #environmental #noise
@djcb16 @The_One1001 @alex_avoigt I know. But, weirdly, tyre noise can be viewed as white noise. It can put one to sleep if constant or ebbing and flowing akin to waves. Exhaust noise is very offensive on the ears in comparison as it breaks the low level din.
@andyjdean1 Tyre noise is relatively small in comparison to a rattly diesel engine,
I also want to thank our two GOLD sponsors, Ortech and Embelton, our Silver sponsor Martini .... centre is an entertainment complex with a CASINO and the arts centre precinct .... 09:20 Comparison of road and laboratory measurements of tyre/road noise ...LIAO, Xiangning; Zheng,
@_markgallagher @goodwoodrevival What a comparison compared to modern F1 cars , lots of engine and tyre noise but the speed is very different. I feel sure about 25yrs ago Raymond Baxter was the host at a Porsche evening in Sutton Coldfield . He had A fabulous voice !!
With the caveat that the survey is by the car manufacturer Nissan itself but it shows the introduction of its Nissan Leaf electric car would cut peak traffic noise levels in Asian/Oceanic cities from 90 decibels to 21 decibels https://t.co/PVDA8n7JA8
Review Q&A tyre noise comparison
Is anyone afraid of the media on how they change and shape your views?
No but i am afraid of the effect on others. I live in Germany. The EU hates motorcycles and the media is producing alot unfair content about motorcycles. A proposal for a new law suggested a 80db limit for motorcycles. What the media generally did not communicate was the part where it says 80 db in all driving conditions.Instead people thought 80db, that is just fair, that is as much as cars. Though it is not fair, cars can insulate….but whatever. It also ignores the factor of tyre noise. Motorcycle tyres are rather silent(once photographed cyclists…they nearly fell off when i turned the engine off and zipped past them rolling out at 70ish kmh), so paying all attention to engine noise through the rev-range makes the comparison biased against motorcycles. Truth is cars do not do 80db in all conditions either, the noise levels of those are also tested in a narrow speed window, ending at less than 70mph. It is downright impossible and a try to limit the speed and power of motorcycles greatly, through the back door.
As a car buyer, what would you want the car reviewers to explain or demonstrate more? What are the aspects moat commonly missed by reviewers but are basic details required for a car buyers?
1- Rear Suspension. I feel most of the reviews are more biased with the comfort of front seats. The rear bench seats required much more comfort and particularly suspension. Whether it is independent suspension or u beam with coil over suspension and it’s comfort level 2-Body Roll -especially in suv class of vehicles due to height of the vehicle; you may find perceivable discomfort and body roll in rear seat travel. With even small inputs of steering the effect is very noticeable. 3-Noise level measurements inside with Engine on and while passing 100kmph. Apps are available to show results in terms of dB. You can easily compare with different cars. 4-Tyre Noise- off-road category tyres makes lot of noise. Check pattern of tyre grips and if any noise reduction feature is there. 5-Capacity of ac compressor- for comparison 6-Blower ducts availability under rear foot area.-helpful during winters 7-Reading lights for rear passengers 8-Power steering type (hydraulic/electric motor assisted) 9-braking effectiveness.how you can stop this car from 60–80kmph. 10-music playback fidility.
In snow and ice, how good are mud and snow tires versus all season tires versus studded tired tires versus tire chains? Does it make any difference what tires you put the chains over?
Several questions rolled into one here. Since you are asking about comparisons I will answer as they are written. But first I must note that I have several decades experience driving in the wintry conditions from glare (black) ice to deep snow. M&S tyres v All season; in snowy conditions all season tyres do not have enough space between the tread grooves to grip and clear snow. It is that simple. In the snow you need snow tyres, and in deep snow you need ‘Alpin’ rated snow tyres. But if there is no or little snow then All Season tyres are as good as M&S tyres on the ice. However there are winter ice tyres with soft rubber compounds and many small gripping sipes that work better on ice. Studs are only available on snow tyres and they do grip the ice better than any other tyre, but they damage the road surfaces and are outlawed in many places. Also they are a little more slippery on the dry roads, and feel a little like driving in the rain. Not to mention the noise they make on dry roads. And if you drive dry very often they may separate from the tyres and spray the underside of your car with studs, as tyre heat is the nemesis of tyre studs. Chains are simply a short term traction fix for the drive tyres and can be more easily applied to All Season tyres than snow tyres. They do give added traction in both snow and ice, but you are limited to much slower speeds and short term usage before you need remove them. I personally have used chains only once in deep snow when my M&S tyres simply spun. I find them not worth the effort to mount and dismount on the tyres for the short term usage. Simply have a good set of M&S tyres on the car and if you cannot go, then stay where you are until you can. Unless you are stranded and stuck, then mount the chains to get you moving once again to a safe place for removal. It really sux to mount chains on tyres that are already stuck in the snow, so simply use your chains as added traction weight in your trunk! Also if you think you may be using tyre chains, practice putting them on in a dry warm place so you know how to do this before you need do it in the cold wet snow. I also highly recommend that if you need winter tyres that you put them on all 4 corners to aid in steering and braking traction and control!! FWD or RWD or 4WD it simply does not matter, it is ,all, about the tyres when driving in wintry conditions. Please do drive carefully in wintry conditions and slow down to a speed you feel comfortable and in control driving. Also if you are slowed below 45 mph (in USA) activate your 4 way emergency flashers so others know you are driving slow. And do keep a sharp eye for those that swiftly pass you, as you may see them in the ditch later along the way. A final safety note; ,beware of snow drifts, as they tend to pull you into them due to the increased resistance to one side of you car when driving into them!! Simply stay in the tracks made by others if you can, and watch out for oncoming traffic using the same clear tracks !! Edit: Dameon mentioned that ‘Mud and All Terrain tyres’ are wider and do not work as well as actual snow tyres in the snow. Also another safety note; Please do ,turn on your headlights, when driving in the snow day or night, this gives the other cars a better chance to see your car both front and rear! And talking about rear, use your rear Fog Lights if you have them, and whenever you stop, clear the snow off your tail lights!! The most dangerous thing I have experienced in snow driving is coming upon a slower car without any lights or snow covered lights on the rear, since I always have good tyres and tend to drive much faster than others.
What's the life span of a Honda Activa tyre?
The life of a tyre depends on a number of factors; condition of roads, riding style, load on the tyre, air pressure, brand of tyre etc. I’ll talk about my personal experience here. I purchased an Activa 125 in October 2016 and it came shod with TVS tyres. While the initial grip of the tyres were satisfactory it was nothing to write home about. As per me I am a sedate rider mostly maintaining 40–50 kmph speed on highways and occasionally doing full throttle to open up the engine. My usage is 75% – 25% City - Highway. Most of the by-roads here are in good condition but during rainy season all of them becomes pot hole ridden. And my ride has seen its fair share of bad roads. I usually ride solo, since the scooter is used for daily office commute. Pillion rider has only been there for about 30% of the time. I’m also on the heavier side and with the pillion and shopping luggage, at times have exceeded the company recommended carrying capacity. I maintained an air pressure of 22–29 psi in Front-Rear tyres during the first year and from the second year onward I’m maintaining 23–36 psi in front- rear tyres. I get the tyre pressure checked during every refueling which is for me in 7–10 day gaps. I use normal air and not nitrogen. Currently after 2 years and 17000 Kms later, the front tyre has about 3–4mm tread left which is good enough for another 15000 Kms I guess. The rear tyres, which are the driven tyres is another story though, it ha only about 1–2 mm tread left in the middle and 3–4 mm tread on the sides.I was thinking about pushing replacement to the 20000 Kms mark but the rains and bad grip while cornering is making me consider an early replacement. I’m also planning to exclusively use nitrogen after making the replacement and see how it affects tyre life. Overall I can say that if driven sedately, that is, no sudden acceleration or braking, the front tyres can last for 30000 Kms and rear tyres can last up to 17000–20000 Kms. Edit 1:-, Recently changed the rear tyre of my Activa 125 to Ceat Gripp. The TVS tyre lasted for 233xx kms. I was pushing the replacement since a month and the monsoon rains and bad grip finally made me go for the change. I pushed the tyre replacement a bit too far for my liking. The tyre tread was completely worn out by the time I replaced it. Must have replaced it about 1000 kms earlier. So, the TVS tyre lasted for 23k kms (more like 22.5k). I have ridden around for about 200 kms on the new Ceat Gripp tyres and it has pretty good grip on the roads. Maybe I'm feeling it differently because I was riding around on grip-less tyre for about 1000 kms. Anyway I had a couple of instances where I had to do panic braking because of dogs jumping in front of my scooter and the tyre offered great grip and didn't slide to the sides as I had experienced with TVS tyres. The scooter stopped in a straight line and gave confidence. Rains have not started in full force here in Kerala so I can't tell about the wet grip as of now. BTW, as I have mentioned earlier I had both tyres filed with nitrogen as of now and is planning to keep it that way till the next tyre change. Will see as to if nitrogen plays any part in tyre life. As usual tyre pressure is maintained at 23–36 psi front-back. Edit 2:- November 2021. The second tyre change for rear tyre came earlier than I expected. The CEAT Gripp tyres became bald in the center within 2.5 years and 18.5K kms. There was tread towards the sides and even with that little tread it provided good enough grip. The tyre truly lived up to its name. It was the grippiest tyre that I have rode on till now. I mean excellent wet and dry grip. The tyre compound was a little soft so it wore out early. So with that confidence in CEAT tyres I picked up the CEAT Milaze as the replacement. I want to see whether it will give that insane life as claimed in their advertisements. This has bigger blocks of tread, with more depth and seems to be made of a harder compound. So this time around I decided to get rid of that rim too as it was bent repaired and required a tube. Couldn’t get the Activa 125 rim so chose the Hero Maestro rear wheel steel rim which is an exact match. So now the rear wheel is tubeless again. I have done a little over 300 kms on the new tyre and the observations are as follows; The ride is a lot smoother and cushier. It maybe due to the tubeless tyres or just placebo. The grip provided by the tyre is decent. Not at the level of Gripp model but decent enough. The road noise is much lower than that of Gripp model tyres. Even after 300 kms most of the thin hair like structures (vent spews) on the tyre are still there on the parts which are in constant contact with road. In comparison those structures on CEAT Gripp tyres didn’t even last the first 50 kms. So I guess this is an indicator of long life. Will have to wait and see. I had changed the front tyre earlier (August to be precise) from TVS make to JK Blaze due to uneven wear because of a broken suspension seal. The TVS tyre still had enough tread on 75% of the tyre to last another 15–20k kms but the uneven wear was causing a bumpy ride and vibrations on the handle. I didn’t have much option at the store where I went for the tyre change. They only had Apollos and JK and since the JK one was latest manufactured I chose it. Its performing its duties flawlessly for the past 2.5K kms. Still running on Nitrogen on both tyres. Maintaining 23–32 psi pressure front-back as the daily rides are mostly solo now. Hope this helps. Cheers, VK
In which aspects is the Hyundai Grand I10 NIOS better than the Maruti Suzuki Swift, and why?
The Hyundai Grand i10 Nios and the Maruti Suzuki Swift are two such hatchbacks that are always in good demand. Since both of them belong to the same segment, they have their strengths and weaknesses which come in handy while choosing any of the two. Here i will talk about a few attributes in the Grand i10 Nios which are far superior to that of the Swift. Firstly, it is the interior quality of the Hyundai, with that I mean the quality of materials used. Most of the cars from Hyundai feature good looking interiors and their quality is up there with the best in its class. Maruti Suzuki need to work on that front since there are regular complaints of rattling noises coming from owners regarding their vehicle. Sadly the current generation Swift cannot emulate its predecessors, who were known for their performance. Thus in the handling department the Grand i10 Nios has heavier tyres which help in reducing body roll. Maybe using lighter tyres do increase the mileage of the Swift, but in this case it really does not. The Swift petrol has an ARAI certified mileage of 18 kmpl while the Grand i10 Nios petrol gives an 19.5 kmpl overall. These figures may be misleading as it would be quite difficult to emulate them, but it is likely that the Hyundai will achieve a greater mileage in the real world. Maruti Suzuki did phase out the Multijet diesel recently, so i think it would be better not to consider its mileage in comparison with the Grand i10 Nios diesel. Build quality is another aspect that I cannot talk about since the Grand i10 Nios has not been crash tested by Global NCAP. However, it is based on the same platform as the Santro which scored a 2 star crash test rating. The Swift on the other hand also achieved the same and this is a factor that I think the buyers themselves must decide. The deciding factor of the comparison test is the price in my opinion. Prices for the Grand i10 Nios start from Rs.5.04 lakh for the lower trims and go all the way to Rs.8.22 lakh (ex-showroom, India). The Swift on the other hand has its base variants costing at Rs.5.29 lakh and stretching towards Rs.9.25 lakh (ex-showroom, India) for the fully loaded variant. Thus, there is a price difference of about 25,000 between the base variants of both cars and more than a lakh between the fully loaded ones. Here in this case the cheaper car, namely the Grand i10 Nios comes with a better equipment list as compared to the Swift. Though the Swift has a more refined engine, better cabin space and good ride quality, it does command a premium which i think pulls it down. Picture Credits: Google. Thank you.
I am planning to buy a compact sedan but I am bit confuse between ford Figo Aspire, Swift Dezire and Honda Amaze. Which one is the best?
I own Honda Amaze: Diesel Amaze Diesel engine is crude , noisy & not refined, even though its a HONDA its a new engine & still a work in progress, immature / new engine. Mileage : ( 20k + km covered, Diesel City : 13.3–13.7 ( Average , 20k km covered ) Bangalore City Highways : 17.5 mostly, it can go upto 20 & even 22 17.5 is achieved at 120 speeds averaging 70km/hr Worst : Highway : 15.5 ( spirited driving, 4th gear , real rash driving. Note : top Speed : 140km/hr Its best ridden at 120 km or below ( cross winds, wind noise, tyre noise/ road noise, engine noise, vibrations ) Amaze suspension is really stiff and u can feel minor ,,,, even Cats eye u feel it inside!! So : Amaze : Strictly NO other options : Swift Desire : proven engine sourced from fiat!!!, My friend owned the Desire diesel till 1.5 lakh kms ,, now upgraded to Vento & Etriga City : Below 13 ( He told 11–12 ? Highway : solid 20, or even 22.? A solid engine , but now showing its age, also design / looks ,,, hmmmm Ford Figo Aspire : Fastest diesel in this range!! also mileage figures are said to be good, My cousin owns the old Figo, but that’s the less powerful engine!!! My good friend owned a Ford Ikon long back, which he told gives 20 on highways, Once I took it for short drive around 120km- 140km really floored it, heavy foot, also did kiss it top speed at 150 range, but mileage figures around 12Km/l ( I believe it was 10km/l It gets scary at 150, tires were puny 14 inch ,, brakes ineffective,, when braking at 140, the tyres would screetch and scream!!! but figo ikon was a very good handler. My another cousin also had the same ikon diesel, which after some years,, was sounding like a Ambassador,, the DIESEL CLATTER!! Conclusion : I am not confident about Ford Diesel of previous generation after 1lakh KM, engine starts showing its age So, Even though Ford Figo Aspire is a good powerful engine with excellent mileage, but as the engine is new , I am abit skeptical, If u are changing the car after 3 -4 yrs or below 1 lakh km or 75k km I dont think it will be a problem General impression about Ford Diesel engines are they are not long lasting, shows age, Diesel clatter after some years !!! , caution : this is ageneral notion/ belief!! Example : I know of Innova over 2.5 lakh kms & qualis above 3lakh km still going strong! { Sorry : I think the Ford aspire engine is pulled from fiesta!!! oops my mistake, was it not competing with Hyundai Verna ? Bottom line, Fiesel Diesel is a GR8 engine!!} & Ameo engine from Skoda - Volkswagen, hmmm Difficult to pick , close call , but will go for Ameo, ( Reason : Ameo handles better, somehow Ford has managed to mess up the driving dynamics in Aspire, which it was famous for in Ikon/ fiesta. ( Ford was known as drivers Car,( great handling, u can really push it ,, hmmm,,, but not anymore!!! Winner : Volkswagen Ameo Design : Reminds me of old European Cars, I like it , Engine : 1.5l Diesel engine which is well proved in Skoda/Vento for years!!! Suspension : Might be a bit on stiff side like Skoda Laura, but at high speeds it would really show its potential. Amongs the cars u mentioned it has the lowest height , 1483, As I told every European/ foreign cars with low height, which help in cruising, high speed ,drivability, ( ford Ecosport : 1708mm ? oops => SUV Height ) Width : 1682 mm, ( better suited for 2 persons at back, 3 will be a squeeze ( Honda Amaze 1680 mm ,I have travailed with 3 person in back , not very comfortable, but u have to fight for shoulder space,, sqeezing, resting on other !!!! ( Ford Ecosport : 1765!!! ? ) Tyres : 15 inch ( Base TL is 14 inch,, please cross check it, Note : Amaze tyres are 14 inch!!! 45litre fuel tank ( Amaze 35l only ,so u get atleast 100–120 km extra range assuming ,, ) Conclusion : Winner : Volkswagen Ameo Runner Up : Ford Figo Aspire / Ford Ecosport ( Price cuts ? ) ( Not a sedan, but , take a test drive , u might actually like it. Note : 7 speed DSG Automatic ( Volkswagen ) had some issues in the past, I don’t know whether its fully rectified. Remarks : U never told about ur usage / monthly km? Go to Tata showroom & see Tiago & Hexa ( The tata have gr8 ride quality / very comfortable inside , for comparison sake ) Also >> Swift Desire also has good ride quality Tiago Diesel is the cheap Diesel at 5.3 lakhs on road , excellent ride quality / comfortable , ! I mean TEST DRIVE all the vehicles in the country! Also check the service interval & service cost
Can animals understand English?
I was always amazed that my ex girlfriend’s dog Aika could understand more than just basic commands said to her in Bulgarian. My ex would say “Aika! Go for the tyre” and out of a huge pile of crap, Aika would sure enough pull out a tyre and start mauling it to death. She would do this with various things that she could thin Years later, when I got a dog, I decided that I would speak to my then 9 year old rescue Staffy in both English, and Bulgarian. I started off by using simple, single word commands, but by the end of it, she could understand things in both languages and sometimes, would respond better in Bulgarian. It did get to the point where I pretty much only gave commands in Bulgarian and my gf had to learn how to say some commands as the dog ignored her otherwise! My Bulgarian is exceptionally crap in comparison to what it was, but at least the dog understood my bastardised version of the language. I remember reading a funny article about police dogs that were brought over from Holland. The English police force had to learn Dutch as the dogs couldn’t understand them. When I first met Aika, she would cock her head to the side whenever I spoke to her in English so I had to learn how speak to her pretty sharpish. Dogs understand words, tone, sounds etc. They soon learn what they mean, especially when reinforced with regular use and positive rewards be that with treats or verbally. I like to think that all animals understand English, especially as I speak to every living creature I come across (Spiders, slugs, birds, rabbits, foxes, pigeons, cows etc). If they don’t understand, I hope that they speak about me kindly in their native communication to their animal husbands and wives because otherwise, i’m just some weird creature making strange noises at them in the park.
What are some astonishing facts about Formula One cars? How is the car designed aerodynamically? What is different about the tires, the seats, and the engine of a Formula One car?
Formula One, is the second most advanced technology after fighter war planes. A ,Formula One, car is made up of ,16,000 components,. While aeroplanes use their ,wings, to lift them into the air, F1 cars use theirs to create downforce. This pushes the vehicle onto the track and helps them corner faster and have more grip. It has been reported that at upwards of 150 mph, a F1 car will create so much downforce that it could be driven upside down on the ceiling of a tunnel. The ,front suspension ,of a Formula 1 car is so strong that it can withstand two tonnes of pressure. That means the carbon fibre rods that connect the wheels to the main body could easily cope with an adult bull sitting on them. Up to ,400 sensors, are embedded in each one of them. Data is streamed at ,128 GB per Second,, i.e equivalent to 18639 songs per second. Gear changes take ,30 milliseconds,, 10X faster than a blink of an eye. Engine:-, ,1.6-litre V6 turbo engine, and two Energy Recovery Systems (MGU-H, recovering energy from the exhaust and the MGU-K recovering energy from braking) with ~,750 hp Direct injection is there to help save the much needed fuel. The fuel burning efficiency is around 99%, that's why they travel close to 300 kmph. The engine has to be kept hot all the time. The pistons and their corresponding cylinders are tightly fit. Exhaust, in an engine. Can you hear how the sound overwhelms the microphone in this video? If you were standing there, you'd feel that as solid bursts of noise. Without those huge ear covers everyone's wearing, it's genuinely painful Formula One cars don’t have air bags which normal road cars have but the cockpit walls can withstand impacts equivalent to ,250 tonnes ,i.e the weight of ,58 African Elephants,. The cockpit also have a water bottle in them. A driver can sip this water which has mineral salts in it through a pipe that goes through a hole in the helmet. This is the driver's seating position in F1 car. Since F1 cars are extremely compact, driver remove the ,steering wheel, to get in and out of the cockpit. The steering wheel alone costs around $50,000. Acceleration 0 to 100 km/h (62 mph): 1.7 seconds 0 to 200 km/h (124 mph): 3.8 seconds 0 to 300 km/h (186 mph): 8.6 seconds The acceleration figure is usually 1.45G which means the driver is pushed back in his seat at acceleration 1.45 times gravity or 1.45 times his weight. Just imagine the feeling. Speed, goes more than 360 km/h. Brakes:- ,It takes an F1 car considerably less distance to stop from 160 km/h than a road car uses to stop from 100 km/h. Braking power in F1 is extremely high. The F1 car will be able to brake from a speed of around 100 km/h to stop in about 15 meters. Road cars would take about 3-4 times more that distance.The carbon/ceramic brakes in combination with tire technology and the car’s aerodynamics produce truly remarkable braking forces. The deceleration force under braking is usually 4G, and can be as high as 5–6G when braking from extreme speeds for instance, at the Gilles Villeneuve circuit or at Indianapolis. Acceleration, deceleration and cornering all apply loads to the body and high performance road cars such as the Porsche 911 generate around 0.7g accelerating, 1g braking and 1g cornering. In contrast, an F1 car generates up to 1.2g accelerating, 5g braking(I.e Deceleration) and 6g cornering. These forces are applied to the whole body, but particularly affect the head as this is only supported by the neck. In fast corners such as Silverstone's Copse corner, or turn 8 at Istanbul Park the lateral load on the neck is equivalent to half the driver's body-weight. Even under braking the forces applied to the body are similar to those experienced by fighter pilots. Since F1 drivers have to endure high G forces at extremely hot temperatures, they tend to lose close to 4 kg after every race. The neck of drivers has to support up to 24kgs during a long corner. However, they gain that weight back soon after their bodies are replenished with fluids and food. Drivers lose about 3 litres of water during a race. Such acute water loss could impair their psycho-physical abilities, which is why drivers drink a lot of water before every race to keep their fluid levels in check. ,During a race a driver can experience tremendous stress throughout his body. Brakes can withstand ,1200ºC ,as hot as molten lava. The Formula One cars are constructed from composites of carbon fiber and similar ultra-lightweight materials. The ,weight ,of car is 642 kg ( 1,415 lb ).The minimum weight permissible is 702 kg ( 1,548 lb ) including the driver but not fuel. Cars are weighed with dry-weather tyres fitted. Formula One tire is filled with ,nitrogen, instead of air. As a result, the pressure is kept constant even under extreme loads, which improves various factors including safety because even the slightest changes in the tire pressure of just 0.05 bar can lead to a reduction in the steering precision. Even after a race has been completed, a car’s tires will be about 120ºC – hot enough to cook an egg on. These are ,7 types of tires, used When a car is driving in the wet, the tyres funnel away 250 litres of water every second. Apart from Car this is something that will blow you mind, F1 ,helmets, are the most indestructible helmets on earth, capable of resisting 800ºC flame for 45 seconds (without the heat inside the helmet exceeding 70ºC) and huge impacts. Every single thread in the T800 high performance fiber used in F1 helmets consists of about 12,000 microthreads. Each one of these microthreads is 15 times thinner than a single human hair. The total length of all the threads processed in one helmet is approximately 16,000 kms. F1 drivers and mechanics wear clothes (overalls) made of ,Nomex, which is a brand fiber that can survive for 11 seconds in temperatures of 840ºC. In comparison, the maximum temperature in a sauna is 100ºC, in an apartment fire it would be up to 800 ºC and the lava in a volcanic eruption reaches between 750ºC and 1,000ºC. The first fire-resistant racing overalls were worn in 1979 by Niki Lauda, Mario Andretti and Carlos Reutemann. They consisted of five layers of a fire-resistant material, as also used by NASA for space suits. Nowadays, the overalls, that are tailor-made to fit the drivers perfectly, are made of two to four layers of Nomex material. It’s also good to mention that even drivers underwear is made of Nomex. Check this video Edit 1: I found a comment ,“Second most advanced technology but still useless to mankind”, So just check the following link if you think the same!! How can Formula 1 racing help ... babies? Formula One technology that’s made its way off the track Image Source: ,Google,, Wikipedia You can check my other answers :) C J Santosh Kumar's answer to What is the best gift you have given anybody? C J Santosh Kumar's answer to Which are some of the most magnificent pictures taken in F1? Thank you Quorans I am overwhelmed with the response 1k…5k…10k votes, I have written over 100 answers but none of them crossed 500.
Is it worth spending up to 2 lac on a Royal Enfield bike as compared to other bikes even though it has less features in comparison? Is it just an emotional value bike? I'm not against Enfield or pro any other brand. I want to buy a worthy bike.
It all depends on what purpose you want it to serve. I have toured across India on multiple motorcycles and the major conclusion I'd draw is, Trust in the Japanese to make a motorcycle that never fails. Now, coming to the RE. It is a good looking bike. The retro look and road presence it has is unparalleled in its price range. Personally, if I had to buy a RE, I'd go with the Electra or the Classic 350 and use it only in the city. The moment I say this, people start talking about RE bikes being cruisers and all. It is true. RE is a decent cruiser. But touring is a totally different ball game. The bike needs to adapt to different types of roads and weather patterns. The most important need of them all is reliability which the RE lacks. I clicked the above photo during a short solo ride to Bangalore from Chennai. The roads were smooth and it was raining for two of the total six hours I spent on the road. However, by the time I reached Bangalore, the speedo stopped working, clutch cable started making a noise, pass switch stopped working and the parking lights above the headlight stopped working. This picture was clicked somewhere on the highway between Nagpur and Hyderabad. The rear Tyre suffered a puncture. The lack of tubeless tires makes it risky to ride on the highways. This was taken in Delhi, 6 days and about 3000km into a trip. Damages were a broken rim, bent forks, wheel alignment issues, the ridiculously small service interval and replacement of heat shield. Amount spent - 9k. It does look amazing in pictures though. But in reality, it returned a mileage of 20–22kmpl while my Ninja 650 returned a mileage of 25–26 kmpl. The one major advantage of owning a RE is that, service centers are very easily found. Because, demand and supply. So if you've decided to go ahead with a Royal Enfield, prepare yourself for an adventure. Because you'd never know when it would break down.
I am planning to buy an RE Classic 350cc. What are the pros and cons of the bike?
Pros of Classic 350 1) Powerful Engine With 28 NM of massive torque, it becomes clear that power and Royal Enfield are good old friends. Not just that, it takes the least effort for Classic 350 to reach its maximum ability as the values are reached at relatively lower torque than all other motorcycles available in India around its segment. The engine has loads of pulling power, making it the best motorcycle when considering a ride into tough terrains like mountains and slopes. 2) Retro Looks No other motorcycle except the new Jawa carries the same sort of design language as Classic 350. It comes with a full metal body, round headlight, huge fuel tank, curved fenders and chrome spoke wheels. The divided seat is a visual bless while the exhaust is particularly shared between all RE Bullet and Classic models. The retro-inspired design language gives it a unique road presence for sure. 3) Double Discs & 2-Channel ABS Royal Enfield Classic 350 uses a front 280mm disc brake with 2-piston callipers and a 240mm disc brake with single piston calliper for the rear. This makes it an ideal RE to drive as cutting speeds become easy and driving at higher speeds is more promising than before. Dual-channel ABS further take things to the next level. It has a different handlebar than the Bullet series, providing the rider with more confidence while manoeuvring in high traffic. The tyres are MRF 90/90-19 and 110/90-18 on Classic 350. These are years ahead of those found on the Bullet 350 and helps the rider attain new levels of grip on the road surface. Royal Enfield Classic Signals with 2-Channel ABS 4) Electric Start RE provides the option of electric start on the Classic 350 as a standard feature. This helps many potential riders that are not much familiar with the kick starter to enter the RE family and enjoy riding the motorcycle in all conditions. This option also helps those who are scared of the reverse action of RE’s kick-starter, which is considered quite dangerous on old Bullet motorcycles. 5) Powerful Headlight Royal Enfield provides the Classic 350 with 60W/55W halogen headlight that is twice as bright as normal bulbs in most motorcycles. They are extremely useful in bad weather conditions and night time driving. The presence of a pass light switch makes it even more powerful and helpful in rough conditions. 6) Excellent Mileage Everyone won’t be familiar with this term for a Royal Enfield motorcycle but many riders have claimed a mileage of around 40 kmpl from their Classic 350. The average value never drops below 35 kmpl in most riders while with careful driving and fuel efficient throttle value, it can seriously touch 40 kmpl without any hesitation. Riders do not need to worry about super constant refills as the motorcycle happily provides 500 kilometres of riding range in a full fuel tank with medium hand on the throttle. RE Classic 350 Rear Disc Closeup Shot Cons of Classic 350 1) Heavyweight RE Classic 350 weighs 192 kg and that makes it a lot heavier than bikes of this class. For some near comparisons, we can consider the jawa 300 that weighs around 170 kg. The 22 kg more weight makes it a bit slower in overall top speed terms. Royal Enfield is actually not known for figures like top speed or acceleration but lowering its weight from some parts could provide an even better ride quality in the coming times. 2) High Price Basically a Bullet 350 with different design and added features, RE Classic 350 commands a price tag of INR 1.48 lakh (ex-showroom Delhi). The addition of disc brake and electric start, along with MRF tyres makes it expensive for sure but the gap is of around INR 20,000 in comparison to the Bullet 350. Royal Enfield should have provided a lower price tag as many buyers skip the same because the on-road price in most of the cities crosses INR 1.70 lakh. The Signals ABS version can be had for INR 1.62 lakh (ex-showroom). Classic 350 Redditch Edition 3) No Fuel Gauge Well, royal feel is a different thing but a fuel gauge could have been a better addition on the RE Classic 350. What if someone takes your bike for a ride and unfortunately switches the fuel knob to reserve due to some reason? You won’t even know when your bike gets out of fuel as there would be no indication of anything before the unfortunate halt. 4) Refinement Issues Royal Enfield should work over the refinement issues faced by thousands of fans in terms of engine noise, harsh vibrations and false neutrals. Although RE machines are made to stay longer, not every user actually knows how to go through such a phase when you spend INR 1.70 lakh (on-road) and still are not satisfied with the noise of the engine when idle. Source : Google
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