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Review Post diff lock volvo
2010 Volvo FM460 Globetrotter 6×2 Tractor Unit £9750 plus Vat Climate control,diff lock,tipping gear,sliding fifth wheel,I-Shift gearbox,627,000 kilometres,very nice condition,all export enquiries welcome,for more info please phone 0121 326 6950 or visit https://t.co/4DBR7vRXmd https://t.co/3lHoqlTTlF
**FOR SALE** 2007 VOLVO FH 13 480 6X2 TRACTOR UNIT, GLOBETROTTER XL CAB, TIPPING GEAR, EURO 5, 4.1 METRE WHEELBASE, I SHIFT GEARBOX, SLIDING 5TH WHEEL, ALLOY WHEELS, AIR CON, DIFF LOCK, 1,157,000 KMS #Volvo #tractorunit #euro5 #1FWH https://t.co/uKhHPyQ7vr
Poznań 🇵🇱 to Duisburg 🇩🇪 746 km, 15.4t Wheel Loader. My Volvo finally hit 123456 km driven! I also had to use diff lock, as I had to go off-road, when a bus decided to stop and block on the highway (because the parked DAF had hazards on). @SCSsoftware #ETS2 #EuroTruckSimulator2 https://t.co/td4SUmg5Am
#DAF XF105.460 https://t.co/qeGXnoxnUw XF105.460 6X2 MIDLIFT AUTO DIFF LOCK SLIDER SUNVISOR A/C CHOICE https://t.co/DPKDNavWSx
2009 Volvo FH420 Sleeper 4x2 Tractor Unit POA Climate control,exhaust brake,Radio/Cd player,full air kit,diff lock,hill assist,I-Shift gearbox,all export enquiries welcome,worldwide shipping arranged,for more info please phone 0121 326 6950 or visit https://t.co/4DBR7vRXmd https://t.co/q95ir7McKe
DAF LF55.180 TIPPER 3 WAY BODY 13 TON TARMAC CHUTES MANUAL DIFF LOCK https://t.co/1VQLx5HGSY DAF https://t.co/JX7SSsunP4
2006 VOLVO VNL64T300 For Sale In Des Moines, IA 50313 2006 Volvo Vnl64t300, Ved12 365 Hp, Only 535k Miles, Eaton 10 Speed, 3.9 Ratio, 22.5 Rubber, Steel Rims, Detailed And Serviced, Diff Lock, Engine Brake, And Cruise, A/S 5th, Pre Emission Day Cab. https://t.co/of6wxdU6vY https://t.co/PVSH0WTfFI
2008 DAF LF45,10 GRP BOX VAN 16,6FT TAIL-LIFT MANUAL DIFF LOCK INSULS https://t.co/3JHhNOIxVj 2008 https://t.co/yYpVylz4bQ
MERCEDES AXOR ATEGO 2529 FLATBED 26 TON MANUAL GEARBOX / DIFF LOCK 3 AXLE https://t.co/msRx8GbQ29 https://t.co/5T5gYI2Kin
@YoungCaravan Volvo 940 wentworth estate (ideally with a rear anti-roll bar) rwd and abs acts as diff lock on rear-never got stuck in mud
Review Q&A diff lock volvo
What makes a car good in the snow?
A car good in snow and a car good on snowy road are two different things. No car is actually good in snow because its capabilities are limited by ground clearance. In that sense I disagree with the authors writing that the car needs to be heavier, awd is not required and it needs lower center mass. Exactly the opposite is true. In order to at least try negotiate the snow your car needs to be lightweight and with high ground clearance in the first place. Heavier low clearance cars tend to condense the snow in front and below them producing a tense cushion under the front of the vehicle elevating the wheels above the solid ground. If it is a front-wheel drive without a diff-lock it means being stuck upon at least one wheel losing traction. Then you need hours of work to remove hundreds of pounds of dense compressed snow from under the car before ever considering moving further. Higher ground clearance especially on shorter vehicles prevents cushion build-up and then the AWD vehicle especially with a capability to lock differentials would still crawl as long as at least one of four wheels maintains traction with solid ground. That's 400% advantage vs a front-wheel drive by itself. Then comes the weight. For a lightweight vehicle even the condensed snow under the wheel is a sort of solid ground. It would surf above cushion even if the latter is still forming the longer. In that sense the best cars for driving on snow are lightweight compact AWD or 4WD SUVs in class of Lada Niva or Suzuki Jimny. Bigger trucks are particularly useless for the reason of snow cushion I mentioned and the heavier the truck the denser the cushion and it literally gets frozen into it by its axles. Don’t forget proper tires. Volvo wagon on wicked winter tires would make better than Lada Niva on slicks. All in all standard wheeled vehicles shouldn't be your choice for negotiating snowy terrain. Speciality tracked vehicles or vehicles on special low-pressure wheels are better suited for the task.
Generally, how much HP will I need to “drift” in my rear wheel V6?
Generally, how much HP will I need to “drift” in my rear wheel V6? As so many other things, it depends. My old bmw e21 316 from 1975, had a 90 up engine from the factory. How many were home after 20 years when I got her, is anyone's guess. She could do a powerslide if driven hard enough. But I wouldn't call it real drifting. Then I got an opel manta 1.8i. This car had a live rear axle instead of independent rear suspension. Same amount of power, more torque. This car would go sideways into and out of any corner. Then I got an old Volvo. A 345. That car has leafsprung de dion rear axle. And it had some of the hardest no grippy tires I ever had the pleasure of seeing. A 2 litre Volvo engine and a manual transmission. That car would go sideways any time you wanted. None of my cars had locking diffs btw. If I were to do a drift friendly car today, I would start by getting a locking diff, stiffer suspension, and tires with no grip. Heck then a lawnmower engine will make you drift.
Is Quattro the best all-wheel drive system? If so, why?
Marketing. They were the first to have a commercially successful awd road car (the Jensen FF preceded the original Audi Quattro but flopped) and used similar technology to win a bunch of rallies. Since 1980 or so, Audi's had a form of Quattro in each year since and have marketed accordingly. Quattro is just the name of an awd system on an Audi car, and does not describe a particular system. The Quattro in the Audi TT and A3 is actually based on Swedish technology purchased from Haldex. It's similar to what Volvo has in their own awd cars. The other system, Quattro IV, has a Torsen center differential and open diffs front and rear. Newer systems have a 60% rearward torque bias. Both systems work well but I would not declare them head and shoulders above the rest. For instance, the AWD system in a Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution X has two electronically controlled locking differentials as well as a helical torsen-style diff up front. It's far more sophisticated than what Audi has put in their cars, but it is also pricey and huge overkill for 99% of car buyers out there. Audi's system is a well engineered and inexpensive one.
What is the difference between Audi Quattro and Subaru Symmetrical AWD?
I disagree with ,User-11153860224252675126,. This answer assumes you know generally how the differential in a car works and that AWD systems have at least 2 differentials plus some sort of device in between those 2 to send torque to the two axles. If you don't understand this part, feel free to comment and I'll explain. Both Audi and Subaru have multiple AWD systems each those are substantially different than other systems from the same company. Audi has two basic systems (maybe more, I'm not familiar with the ones in the R8 and Q7 and the VW Touareg used to have a low range). One has a Torsen center diff and that's used on cars like the A4 and A6 that have a longitudinal engine layout. The other system uses a Haldex clutch in the center position and that's used on cars like the A3 and TT which have transverse engines. The Haldex system (or one very much like it) is also used on Volvos and some Fords. Audis also used EDL (Electronic Differential Lock) at either axle to send torque side to side. What this really means is the ABS computer grabs the brake on a wheel that it detects as slipping. This sends the torque to the other side of the car. Subaru also has a few systems, though the primary differentiation is the type of transmission. Cars with manual transmissions have a standard differential with a viscous lock up in the middle. Cars with an automatic transmission have a clutch system that's similar to the Haldex Audi uses. Also, Subaru tends to use a viscous lockup in the rear as well, though some models have had a Torsen in the rear. Finally, the STI allows the driver to control the middle differential in terms of torque split. I don't know what the specific mechanism for this is. Generally speaking, other companies' AWD systems aren't as good as Audi or Subaru, but in some cases that's not true. The Nissan GTR AWD system is very sophisticated and Toyota has used Torsen center differentials in some of their trucks (like the 4Runner in certain years).
What car mods don't increase wear on it and don't put additional stress on it?
I disagree with the leave-it-skin deep arguments. Most cars come with a range of engine and drivetrain options, and most of the cars sold are usually the base package. Additionally, many cars are international and each local variant is sold with small quirks unique to the region. Also, engines are usually used across many vehicles in both time and product lines, some models are detuned from their peak, and later engines have improvements that can be brought to an early model with a parts swap. Thus, most cars have an un-publicized list of factory designed (if not somuch as approved) performance upgrades that are bolt-off/bolt-on swaps that require no-reworking of the vehicle. Many cars can be improved by swapping in the go-fast/go-better parts that were factory options. Look for turbos (or larger turbos), cams, different suspension, anti-sway, stiffer springs, better transmissions, fog lights, larger gas tanks, different ECM tunes, tow packages, manually locking hubs and limited slip differentials. In the extreme (yet pretty common) case, entire engines and drivelines from a damaged donor car can be swapped into the body of a base model vehicle. Some common examples: 240/740/940 Volvos have a huge range companion parts. The factory big turbo/cam is an easy addition, and there’s documented examples of swapping the rare late model limited slip diff into earlier cars. The european cars also came with better cams and anti-swap suspension that can be swapped into the US models. Jeeps: Huge range of engines and parts quality across models of the same year. Want a stronger transmission? Find one and bolt it in. Mustangs: These cars are like sports car legos. VW TDIs: Most cars with these engines are detuned to improve drivability, pollution emissions, and reliability. They can be retuned to vastly increase performance with stock parts, as long as the driver knows that the engine is capable of shredding the drivetrain and avoids doing silly things.
What is the best car to get into drifting, something that I could work on myself and parts arent too hard to get? Preferably having a good power to weight ratio.
Honestly any older vehicles that used to be great as a budget drift platform are now absurdly expensive. volvo 240, s13, s14, bmw 3 series. Just get something RWD, make some power, lock the diff and have fun shredding tires.
As a professional truck driver, do you prefer manual or automatic transmission?
Oh goodness; AMTs any time. The time when the AMT was off the road, some years back, was horrible. Partly because the loaner was an ancient Freightliner that felt like it had the front axle welded directly to the chassis and partly because suddenly I was doing a run I knew well in an unfamiliar truck. The first and last two hours of my trip are particularly hilly and winding, and with the 18-speed manual, I was a good 25% more shagged when I got home than after driving the AMT. And it wasn’t just me. The OD I worked for, doing the day shift deliveries and pick-ups around town and up and down the province agreed. He got fed up of trying to buzz around town and having to avoid changing gears turning through an intersection. “…And all that gear changing.” I drive linehaul—a 13-hour round trip from the provinces to the Big Smoke, and back, nightly. 660km. I’ve driven 18-speed roadrangers, 18-speed 2- and 3- pedal AMTs, and several 12-speed AMTs and I agree in part with the other drivers on this page; some of the Autos are horrible, particularly backing. The Kenworth’s Eaton AMT is an example of an 18-speed awkward: more than once I touched the K200’s accelerator to reverse the B-train into position close alongside a parallel dock and it barely moved, then I touched the accelerator a ,whisker ,more and the computer decided I wanted to launch, as I might if I was driving ,forwards,, drops the clutch… …and reconfigured the light bar at the back of the tractor unit, from straight to wobbly. But the Europeans seem to have improved things, particularly Scania. The R560s I drove for a previous employer were smooth and smart, able to pick when I was manoeuvring. Heck, they even had a ‘manoeuvring’ mode in the transmission computer. Hold down the paddle and an ‘M’ pops up on the display, and the computer will allow a lot more clutch slip than it would normally. And the Trident? Well, Mack uses a drive train from its Volvo parent and the gearbox computer is soooo polished. As I say, the run I do is twisting and hilly for several hours, and going over Mt Messenger, where I had to put the KW into manual shift mode (which, to be honest, I quite enjoyed for uphill work) the M-drive ‘Perf’ mode just manages to guess so much about the nature of the work that it is spooky. Off road? Well, I’d take a 3-pedal over a 2-pedal in a paddock, and I know there are logging companies here using new AMT Scanias who think they are the bees knees, but, personally, I wouldn’t like to have to get an AMT unstuck in the mud. Having said that, the load transfer switch will move weight onto only one of the drive axles; centralised tyre inflation (well, deflation) on drive axles will increase grip; power transfer locks, and diff locks will reduce or remove the effect of wheel-spin hogging all the power. They all add up to giving the driver a few options.
What's the stupidest auto repair job you've been involved in?
Ok I have a threefer. There is something to be said about genetics and mechanical ability. My dad is a teacher and assumed you could teach anybody about cars and engines. When I was a teenager we adopted 2 kids. Brother and a sister considered hard to place because it was felt they needed to stay together. My brother was 7 when he came to live with us. By the time he was 13 my dad had him helping work on the cars. Mostly maintenance stuff like changing oil. Skip ahead a few years and my dad has him change the oil on his 79 1 ton stretch Ford van. My brother comes to him with a funny look on his face and says he can’t add the oil because it is overflowing. Well that’s odd, so my dad goes to look and discovered that he was putting the oil in the power steering pump. Dad never bothered again to ask him to change the oil. My brother had over the years helped him change the oil in that van many many times. My dad still has that van. Jump ahead a few years and we find he has moved out to a small studio apartment in some farmhouse. He had gotten his hands on a ’84 Audi quatro. It was a decent car but had one annoying problem. It would not run past idle till it warmed up. Other than that it was a neat little car. Had diff locks and all wheel drive. So one day he can’t get it started and his girlfriend talks him into buying another car. (I’m skipping lots of drama for sake of brevity) Since he can’t keep the car where it is he calls me up and says if I want it I can have it for 400 bucks and it doesn’t run. So I run over there and do some testing. Paid my money and got my title and bill of sale. I then run home and get a 5 gallon gas can and put some gas in it and drove it home. Yep he ran it out of gas just as he was parking it. The next week I spent some time fixing it and doing maintenance because you all know he sure didn’t. I fixed the broken door handle latches by literally making parts on the bench out of steel bits. I changed the oil etc. Then I got into the whole wont run till it’s hot bit. I started going through the fuse box and all the fuses were good but whats this? Looks like a spare fuse holder but has two wires coming off the bottom. Through a fuse in there and the idle picked up. What do you know. Suddenly ran fine when it was cold. One of the cars we had owned previously was an old Volvo. At that time my brother was living with my wife and I. So we provided a car to him to drive while he was working his first job. Nice safe car that Volvo. He drove that car for almost a year before he called me up one day and said it had just started running rough and smoking like something possessed. He said I should come look at it and told me the restaurant he had parked in front of. He said he had just fill the tank some miles back down the road. When I got there the engine wouldn’t start but white smoke was coming out the exhaust. Yeah he had filled the empty tank with diesel and then driven 15 miles.* Interesting how some of the dumbest things I have seen with cars all happened with my brother. Who knows how much has happened that I don’t even know about. He did happen to wreck one of my cars (supposedly not his fault) that was a 300 dollar car lot find. ’84 Ford escort I picked up in college. That fixer upper is another story though. *Yes a gas engine will run on diesel but it must already be hot and a relatively high compression (for a gas engine) will help a lot. for instance a 9 to 1 compression ratio will work a lot better than a 8 to 1 which may not work at all. In either case it will smoke like crazy and not run very well. The plugs will foul rather quickly too.
What is it like to drive a high-tech semi truck with a full load of cargo?
I drive using my left thumb and two right fingers. No feet, most of the time. I love it. They are nice, they are, um... ,easy,, as long as you can already drive a big, bendy truck. It feels like driving several huge comfortable concrete buildings chained in a row. Enormous and heavy, but light on the hand and brain and with nice 'road feel'. 34-wheels, twice-articulated. Backing is like pushing a bicycle chain. A 'b-train' Scanias are really quiet in the cab, comfortable and 'easy' to drive. My seat has half a dozen adjustments and is on air-suspension, as is the cab, as is the truck, too. And I really like driving high-tech Euros. I use my left thumb and two fingers on my right hand to drive. Sometimes my right foot when I pass through a town or in heavy traffic. Euros don't have the cachet of American trucks—that's something special and I miss it—but they ,are ,nice. Oh, baby. Two litres ,per cylinder,. That's 988 cu. in... When I drive the fanciest trucks, my left thumb adjusts the cruise and brake speed presets and my right fingers have the controls for the gearbox profiles, up- and down-shift and five-stage helper brakes. I just rest my feet on the floor most of the time. Braking The Scania's air brakes are big double-disc supplemented by helper brakes, and we are taught to use the helpers first. The retarder, in particular, is a mighty tool that works on the drive train and will bring the vehicle to an idle-speed in the lowest gear quite quickly. These brakes reduce the use (and expense) of wheel brakes, and make sure I have fresh wheel brakes when I need them. The manual control for helper brakes incorporates exhaust, retarder and jakes; down-shifing is automated. Unlike a DAF I drove, the air brakes adjust to the weight of the load I'm carrying so that a gentle pressure on the brake pedal gives gentle braking whether the vehicle is heavy or light. By comparison, when the DAF was empty a gentle touch on the brake would grab and jerk the vehicle to a stop. Four finger-pads on the steering wheel: top left—sound; top right—displays and phone; bottom left—cruise control; bottom right—brake set. Driving I set cruise control for the running speed I want; I set downhill assist for three km/h higher, then watch the road and steer. From time to time, if I need to slow down for small towns or corners, humps and hollows, traffic or whatever, this is only a finger action. And I listen to my podcasts. The left paddle (out of sight below the steering wheel): indicators, high beam and wipers; right paddle: gearbox profiles, five stage retarder, man/auto, up and downshift. I can configure the display on the console to display a range of different sensors on the vehicle. Here you see suspension air pressure; this is what the brakes read to adjust for load. Gears/Traction The transmission is a two-pedal automated-manual transmission, and I have cross-lock, diff-lock and traction control (TC) to deal with. If the vehicle's computer detects wheelspin the TC will do different things in different circumstances; if I am accelerating it will de-power the engine to save the road surface. A fully-laden truck might rip a layer of seal off the road. If I am braking, TC might engage the cross-locks or disengage the helper brakes. The helpers only work on the drive axles and in wet weather, the drive axles might not brake the whole weight of the truck. The air brakes, however, work on all axles and as such are safer and more effective in wet weather. I can disable TC and do at times, for various reasons. Seventy-three feet; 50 tonnes, rated for sixty. The third axle on the trailer lifts automatically on tight corners. 32 wheels again On a steep downhill the downhill assist will step up the exhaust brakes, retarder and engine brakes through five stages, and change down through the gears to keep revs high and the efficiency of engine braking at its best. The control they offer is good; I can allow a 50-tonne vehicle to manage its own way down a long, steep incline at 75km/h without thinking too much and generally without using the air brakes. Even when I'm not using downhill assist, if I tap the brake pedal at the top of a hill, that will set my downhill speed and, again, the computer takes over to maintain it. On the other hand, I also have hill start mode to help me. Switched on, if I'm stopped pointed uphill, the brakes don't release until I touch the accelerator, to give me better control of the vehicle. Remote Management, Safety and Telematics The engine management system (EMS) keeps an eye on what's going on under my butt and the EMS will throw up a fault warning and depower the engine if it gets upset. An amber warning will let me drive on; a red warning will shut the engine down really soon. I have time to get the vehicle off the road, and not a lot more. Remote management takes several forms; if a warning pops up, the truck will also email the mechanics describing the fault, for their attention. The truck is also GPSed, so my despatchers can find me (as long as I'm near cellphone reception). Telematics watch heavy braking, harsh cornering, idling too long and overspeed. If I am driving roughly, the dash will beep at me, flash a relevant light and send a packet data message by GSM to my despatcher, telling on me. And email the boss. I grumbled once that a vehicle's telematics were poorly adjusted when I had stopped at a stop sign to turn right and pulled into the intersection. The system shouted at me and emailed before I had got halfway across the intersection. Couldn't possibly have been 'harsh cornering'. Modern trailers have stability control, too, independent of the tractor unit. I find it slightly weird and strangely reassuring when I feel the trailer braking the truck, instead of the other way around—it's usually because I am driving an empty vehicle, but stability control doesn't know that. A 'quad' trailer has a self-steer rearmost axle; only 28 wheels Driver Alerts Look back at the image of my console: you see on the dash a black lump, top-left? That's another camera that, with infrared illumination, is watching me for signs of drowsiness, yawns, inattention and the like. If it thinks I might be drowsy, it beeps. If it is 'sure' I am drowsy, it has a little hammer fixed to the driver's seat. It hammers a short tattoo. And then it emails the footage to someone in the US, who looks at it and decides if my despatcher should see it. It ,also ,seems to object whenI am stationary and spotted eating a pie (delicious BP 'thai chicken' pies) perhaps because I have covered my mouth. And it grumbles when I lean forward to find the buttons to dim the dash lights on country roads. It shouts if I am staring in the mirrors. The system thinks I have taken my eyes off the road. ,I, ,meanwhile, ,I ,think I am reversing a long, articulated vehicle. Presumably my despatcher doesn't get those videos. This page has a lot of information about the technology on Scania trucks: Scania Opticruise But you realise that the truck in your photo is imaginary, yes? I've added a link into your question details, to show what features might be available to drivers one day soon. Right now, the fanciest truck I drive is about half-way there. I doubt most of the features in your video are available on production vehicles. There are rumours that there are a couple of autonomous trucks running up and down German autobahns, and Volvo have fitted trucks with sensors that will stop (or try to stop) a truck before it hits a stationary car. But that's about it.
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