intercooler rx7 fd
Artikel Terkait intercooler rx7 fd
All-new 2022 Honda Civic vs Civic FC - Can the 'uncle design' car be just as cool?
Case in point: the jump from the much-lauded FD-series to the lukewarm FB-generation.The newest Civic
This Honda Civic has clocked over 1.6 million km, with the original engine and transmission
It’s essentially an FD-generation Honda Civic but since this is a US-market model, it had a significantly
Honda City & Civic to be discontinued in Japan but not Malaysia, why?
eventual demise from the Japanese market isn’t new – Honda discontinued the Civic during the FD-generation
FD Mazda RX-7 tries to show who the real Keisuke is, spins instead
In a video that recently made its rounds on the interweb, a FD Mazda RX-7 is seen gunning it, being chased
Spied: Mysterious Honda sedan spotted, what could it be?
Civic has a typical lifecycle of 5 to 6 years: Civic EK: 1995 to 2000 Civic ES: 2000 to 2005 Civic FD
Tom's tunes 2020 Toyota GR Supra and Toyota Century
The Supra gets a new turbo, intercooler and an ECU tweak among other mods to bump the power up from 335
Honda Civic FD, the greatest Civic ever?
amongst the hits, one generation stands out from the rest, which is the 8th generation model, codenamed FD
The Honda Civic in 10 Generations - The best car from Honda?
Civic was not as popular as the EG and EK.Eighth GenerationThe Honda Civic redeemed itself with the FD
2020 Honda Civic 1.8L NA vs 1.5L Turbo, worth paying more for the power?
suffice.The simple i-VTEC SOHC is a well proven unit, and has been in use for more than 10 years, since the FD
Owner Review: I chose the 1.8 NA instead of the 1.5 Turbo engine - My 2017 Honda Civic FC 1.8
The 1.8 uses a proven engine used in the FD and FB models.
Yet another Honda Civic Type R sold for nearly half a million Ringgit. What gives?
We think the 8th-gen Civic FD is the best of the bunch.
2020 Toyota GR Yaris launched in Japan – Smaller, more special rival to the Civic Type R
driving force system through a multi-plate clutch.The RZ variant is also equipped with an air-cooled intercooler
Used vs New: Should you be brave to buy a used BMW 3 Series over a new Honda City?
a suspension tuned so comfortably, you’d question if it’s the same company who made the FD-generation
Owner Review: My "Abah-Abah's car" – A pilot feeling being in a Honda Civic FB
If compared to Civic FD almost 6 years in the market.Car Selection and Buying ProcessI’m only targeting
Tiny turbo engines: good or bad?
Without an intercooler, hot air is pumped into the engine.
Man saves total stranger’s Mazda RX-7 from getting swept away in a flood
Austin Owens came across a post of a rare FD RX-7 in a flooding casino parking lot on Facebook.
Goldmine: Live the rotary dream with this Mazda RX7 FD3S
, Mazda and rotary engines became synonymous.The pinnacle of Mazdas rotary chronicles has to be the RX7
Watch YS Khong tell you why Mazda is so singularly brilliant
engine no one else would go near.To this day, I have an undying (and unrequited, for now) love for the FD
Spyshot: Daihatsu Thor seen in Malaysia, what is it doing here?
we gathered, the cooler mounted on the front of this particular Daihatsu Thor is more likely to an intercooler
Here's how important the Honda Civic EK is - without it, there'd be no Civic Type R
The FD still looks fresh 15 years since its launch.Jason thinks that the FD is the greatest Civic ever
Review Post intercooler rx7 fd
Would you rather buy a long range Tesla Model 3? Or... an Apple Computer? https://t.co/umxPaJLRI9
#repost @h22a_vq35_s54_13brew Replaced that annoying intercooler leak issue with a longer hose from HPS #hpsperformance #buildsomethingamazing #fdrx7 #13brew #vintagered #intercooler #rx7r1 #hps #mazda #mazdarx7 #rx7 #fd #rx7r1 #13b #13brew #rotary #rx7fd https://t.co/27TKJFfCyJ
RT: #cars #carporn #supercar Custom intercooler kit all mounted up on the #rx7. #yegcars #780tuners #fd3s #fd #car… https://t.co/Qcm4zEMCzD
Check the #Mishimoto #radiator and #intercooler set up on this #rx7! #FD #jdm #turbo #custom #makeithappen https://t.co/ClKi7Rs1KV
@yeg_rx7 5.1, 4.2, 4.3. My "old" FD with "new" Freddy intercooler ordered straight from nengun JPN/JDM. Obv. Modded http://t.co/NtutfVkEJQ
Our fabricator Leon mocking up a new front mount intercooler for this FD RX7 today. Looking to upgrade your RX7?... https://t.co/Gz22LzrbdY
#4: 2.75" Stock Intercooler Piping Kit For 92-02 Mazda RX7 RX-7 FD FD3S black: 2.75" Stock Intercooler Piping ... http://t.co/Ot4ylK4L3P
"Selling turbo rx7 FD $16000. Someone stole the intercooler and piping" good luck with that sale
GSP Front Mount Intercooler Kit RX7 93-96 FD FD3S 13B Twin Turbo (SOUTH EL MONTE) $380 http://t.co/IR5bonFfm8
IE FD RX7, once fully modified (I have a full RE-Amemiya GT kit) it also adds a V-mount intercooler and intake in the light.
Review Q&A intercooler rx7 fd
What are the pros and cons of owning a Mazda RX7?
Pro’s - They are absolutely gorgeous looking things - especially the FD models. People will smile at you, nod in approval and unlike a porsche - let you out of junctions. Sleek bodywork , a wonderful chassis that’s lighter than most other 2 seat coupes by a few hundred pounds. a great driving position and what a noise! The handling is stunning. Similar to a Toyota GT86 with low center of gravity for the engine & drivetrain, but with the power to match the looks. And you get big flames popping from the Exhaust through tunnels. Hell yeah! They are an appreciating classic - the value of them is only going 1 way. you could drive one for a few years and sell it for the same, if not more than what you paid for it. Tuning for more power is relatively cheap for cost outlay vs power output. The 13b engine is a torque monster when the boost is upped. Plus, being a twin rotary with 3 moving parts, you don’t have to spend on forged conrods and pistons, No valves to worry about cooking and responds really well to bolt on mods. Uprating the cooling system along with a larger intercooler and exhaust will see you with an impressive hike in power. Remapping or a standalone ecu will reap the most benefits in the long term though. Con’s Oil consumption - A wankel rotary is a bit like a 2 stroke engine, in that it requires oil to lubricate the combustion chamber. Obviously that oil will be burned off, so regular topping up will be required. Burning oil is an environmental issue so in the world of ultra efficient clean engines, it’s a bit old hat. After a while catalytic converters and o2 sensors will need to be replaced due to the baked tar on them. The fuel efficiency isn’t all that great. Rotaries need high octane fuel and they sure go through it once the boost kicks in. They also don’t like to be babied so a heavy right foot will keep the engine performing better for longer. Off boost they are quite lacking with drivability so a daily commute to work in stop start traffic will be miserable. They get rather hot. The dreaded Apex Seals. The tips of the rotors are basically the piston rings, so require a slight interference with the chamber. Due to the nature of the engine, any carbon deposits from dirty burnt oil will wear the rotor tips and reduce the compression ratio. Rebuilds are required around 50k miles and any scoring in the chamber can mean replacement. You can’t really rebore and sleeve them either, so when it’s scrap - it’s a big bill. Technology and material choices in the aftermarket have improved the life of the engines nowadays, so with the right care, you don’t have to be fastidious about them, but looking at the Mazda RX8’s prices now, most people who bought them didn’t really know how to treat rotary engines. Lots of them were treated as piston engines and ran out of oil. Mazda are not exactly known for their rust protection. It’s a shame, but if you look at a 2nd hand mazda, you better bring along a Magnet. Electronically they are really robust, as are the drivetrains, But one thing mazda never seem to overcome is the rate at which their steel rots out. It’s not 70’s italian bad, but if you live in a wetter than desert climate, a full inspection, and preventative sealing underneath the car is important. Japanese JDM spec cars are very rarely undersealed from the factory, and if it hasn’t been done by the importer - it will degrade very quickly if driven all year round. If you are taller than average - forget it! I once parked my ridiculously lowered Nissan s13 200sx next to a FD RX7 and it looked like a monster truck in comparison. With the right seat base mounts - like a Bride Superlow (other makes are available) a taller driver could get comfortable in there, but they are not spacious cars. If you suffer from a bad back. An RX7 might not be for you. Getting in and out is not a graceful affair!
What kind of significant performance tuning can you do on a 1993 Mazda RX-7?
I realize this is an old question, but considering I recently bought an RX7 of my own, I'll pitch in what I've learned: To start, the 1993 Mazda RX7 (or FD3S, as people often refer to them due to their VIN pattern) uses a Wankel Rotary engine, which is fundamentally different from a piston engine. Yes, F&F was lying to you when they portrayed the RX7 as having a V8 (or V6 or whatever it was, I just know it didn't sound right). The stock 7 has a 1.3L twin-turbocharged twin-rotor engine, dubbed the 13B-REW. (I'm going to get super rambly, so tl;dr, scroll to last paragraph) Rotary engines are... different. At its core, it's a metal triangle spinning eccentrically inside a housing similarly shaped to a running track. They are four-stroke motors, with each "stroke" in a different section of the rotation and each face of the triangle equivalent to a piston, but rely on ports instead of valves like a two-stroke. Because of an internal 1:3 reduction gear and the 3 combustion events per rotation (compared to a piston engine's once every two rotations), one rotor in a rotary engine effectively acts like two pistons of their combined displacement, making the 13B-REW effectively a twin-turbo 2.3L 4-cylinder. However, rotary engines move a lot of air by design and operate at high temperatures, making them perfect for turbo applications. Moreover, the lack of a piston engine's reciprocating parts (and overall lower quantity of parts) means much nicer engine harmonics, much more compact packaging, reduced weight, and less things to break. This comes at the cost of having the combustion chamber in the equivalent of a piston engine's crankcase. The rotors need to be somehow lubricated, which usually comes from oil pick up lines in the intake, requiring a larger oil capacity, a heavier duty oil that won't break down so quickly from increased exposure to gasoline, and constant fill ups of oil. The combustion chambers are also huge in volume and not exactly static, reducing the engine efficiency and requiring twice the spark plugs. Nevertheless, this also means that to keep the engine clean of carbon deposits, you simply rev the piss out of the engine. In fact, rotaries are pretty happy when you do, because it's actually healthy for them. Hopefully that long-winded crash course will help you understand why certain modifications do or don't work on an RX7 (and rotaries in general), which is precisely what we're going to discuss next: Rotaries are hyper responsive to intake and exhaust upgrades. I don't have a specific example for the 1993 model, but for the previous generation, a full turboback exhaust has been proven to screw an additional 60HP out of the engine, phenomenal considering the car only came with 180. I'm certain that the '93 would behave much in the same way, and would immensely benefit from an intake upgrade as well. To really take full advantage of an intake upgrade, you would have to find an induction point with the best air flow and pressure, duct it properly, plumb it away from heat zones like the exhaust turbine, thermally isolate it, maximize air flow to the intercooler, maximize air flow in the intercooler, and keep the intercooler away from hot spots, but you can figure out the technicalities when you get round to it. However, don't think you can get away with the old camming trick, because there isn't a valvetrain in a rotary engine. Thankfully, there is an equivalent: porting. Porting requires tearing down the motor and expanding the ports on the housing to allow more air (and fuel) to run through the engine. There are different degrees of porting, typically classified into streetport, bridgeport, and peripheral port. Like camming, the size and location of the port will shift the powerband. You can streetport and get low-down power with modest top end gains, or go nuts with a peripheral port, maximizing power up top and developing those peak power figures, but at the expense of that iconic lumpy idle, gutless low rev range, and horrid efficiency. Though, unlike that of a valvetrain, the redline isn't limited to what the valve springs can handle. If your internals are built right, you could easily top 10K. Some race motors can hit 14K (without using space materials like an F1 car does), which is frankly ridiculous. In the end, it means you can fiddle with an extremely looooong powerband. These intake and exhaust upgrades will naturally also increase boost pressure, straight up to the factory fuel cut. This usually necessitates one of those FCD chips or a full blown fuel management computer to both delimit the engine and screw more power out of it. Of course, having the fuel supply necessary for that airflow is also a must, so fuel pumps (which seem to be the weak point universally in all RX7s), big injectors (we're talking 1600cc on basically all 400+HP builds), huge rails, massive dampened FPRs (Aeromotive is popular), and steel braided hoses to boot. Some even go for a 3rd injector for each rotor, pushing near 5000cc per rotor. By this time, you would be stepping into turbocharger upgrade territory. All of this requires a huge number of reliability and support modifications, which are amply detailed on RX7-specialty sites all over the internet (silicone hoses, aluminum AST, MSD ignition boxes, competition plugs, Magnecor R100s, etc.). Your interest is probably just in making more power, so we'll skip that and move straight to the turbos. I will start by saying I have comparatively no knowledge of turbos. Not at any fine level anyhow, but passable to explain this section. On the lower end of the scale, you could have the turbos rebuilt, but with larger impellers shoehorned into them. From there, things go in all directions: build a sequential twin set up based on the stock layout, but with bigger turbos, build a parallel twin set up with giant turbos, or drop in a titanic single turbo that is actually larger than the motor itself. In all scenarios, you can pile on the goods, including ceramic exhaust turbine coating, port machining, massive/twin wastegates, ball bearings, titanium impellers, and whatever spinny indulgence you desire. Feel free to toss in E85, water/methanol, and nitrous into the party as well. Up to the point in which your 20-year-old motor decides enough is enough. The 13B-REW is known for being able to hit 600HP on stock internals, though at this point, it's time to consider what to do with the engine: rebuild the thing with thicker housings (likely sourced from a 13BT), tougher rotors, billions of dowels, hardened stat gears, 3mm seals, etc. or go for an altogether new engine? A heavily built up twin-rotor will do well with four-figure numbers, though when you're stepping into the time/money territory of engine swaps, things get a bit complicated. One of the most popular engine swaps in an RX7 is the 20B. It's sourced from some sort of Japan-only Yakuza barge called the Mazda Cosmo but is a potent 2.0L twin-turbocharged triple-rotor engine. There's also the option of having a custom built quad-rotor engine, which has been proven past four digit figures all motor (apparently the 787B's NA quad-rotor, hobbled by FIA regulations, was capable of 930HP if you delimited the engine), or to whatever ludicrous figures when single or twin turbocharged. Of course, then you can step out of the realms of the rotary engine to what a lot of purists consider blasphemy. V8 swaps are popular, especially LSXs, but I've seen everything from a Buick GN 5.0L to a Miata 1.8L (hell if I know what that owner was thinking) dropped in an RX7. Engine swaps demand lots of time, effort, advanced planning, and custom fabrication/machining, but for an experienced fabricator, a V8 swap would probably be cheaper to build up than a 13B. Small blocks are dime a dozen and sometimes cheaper than the metal it's made of. Still, this entire discussion has been about screwing power out of the RX7's engine bay. For a drag car trying to reach 10 seconds, you still have the rest of the car to worry about. Tire options are a huge part of this, which can range from simply switching to a much grippier rubber to going all the way and throwing on drag radials. Offset this by throwing skinnies up front (spare tire wheels seem popular for this) to reduce rolling resistance where you don't need it. Get a drag launch suspension kit (which I know for a fact exists for the FD) to maximize whatever rear wheel traction you get from your tire choice, minimize nasty wheel hop, and stop your car from thumping its tail like a hyperactive puppy. Lose whatever weight you can. It's simple physics, where you can accelerate something faster if it has less weight for a given amount of force. Just to clarify, a massive stereo and 4 TVs won't make your car faster, so get rid of them. Aerodynamics may even be of concern. A fat GT wing is not going to help, unless you're producing that much power, otherwise it's nothing but aerodynamic drag. A front lip and spoiler delete are popular aerodynamic modifications amongst drag racers. Finally, if you have the money to blow, consider fiddling with the final drive ratio or even dropping in a powerglide/TH400. One of those transmissions in a well sorted drag machine will get you to 60 before your anus has a chance to move from the start line. It's a bit of a shame though. The RX7 was designed ground up to be a spartan, lightweight, track-eating monster, not a strip burner or grand tourer. I'm certain that it would take me twice the words to relay the wisdom of experienced RX7 track racers on how to make it handle better. But whatever, a question is a question. Though, I will suggest that if your sole purpose is to build a 10 second 1/4 miler with a big red button labeled NOS, then find an old Mustang, which can be cammed/carbed to hell and has old fashioned cast iron blocks that can handle the abuse of nitrous. There's also a huge drag racing community for Mustang owners that would be more than willing to assist you if you find yourself confused in the technicalities. The Camaro/Firebird is another valid solution if you're not interested in the stereotypes pinned to Mustang owners. Alternatively, if you still need that JDM factor-yo, find a Supra. You'll be lucky if you can find a mint MKIV Turbo for less than 25K nowadays, but you'll fare much better with a MKIII if you're technically inclined. The 7M-GTE is not a bad motor, contrary to popular belief, and can have wonders worked on it. Right, so, tl;dr answer: in order of the power scale, intake, exhaust, porting, fuel delivery (pump, injectors, etc.), turbocharger upgrade. Stock motor will handle 600HP, so anything beyond that means internals or an engine swap. You can push four digits on a well built 13B, and many swap choices have that capacity as well. However, you might not even need that power if your goal is just to hit a 10 second quarter miler. Mickey Thompsons (or Hoosier, whichever camp you're in), a drag launch suspension kit, weight loss, etc. can all maximize speed without touching the power.
Beranda