It was nice while it lasted, but now the inevitable has happened: both petrol and diesel fuel prices
The common knowledge about smaller capacity turbocharged engines is that they are fuel efficient.
Power for the lights came from a Toyota fuel cell-powered generator developed by Energy Observer Developments
Mazda Corporation has announced a worldwide product recall to replace its fuel pump as a precautionary
The only question is, will fuel cell technology catch on with battery?
Then the Proton X70’s 60-litre fuel tank was brimmed.Driving behaviour was as per a normal driver
This week, theres no changes in fuel prices.The fuel prices from 15 - 21 April 2021 will be as follows
Back then, UMW claims that the new engine was an effort for better fuel efficiency, and the Yaris definitely
Fuel prices see a 3 sen increase for petrol and 4 sen increase for diesel.The fuel prices for the upcoming
fuel additives?
Fuel prices in Malaysia see a 1 sen increase for petrol and up 4 sen for diesel this week.The fuel prices
This weeks fuel prices continue its upward trend, rising 3 sen for both petrol and diesel.
Toyota claimed improved fuel consumption compared to the previous powertrain, but by how much?
Fuel prices see a 3 sen increase for petrol and 4 sen increase for diesel.The fuel prices for the upcoming
Fuel prices will remain unchanged for this week, announced the Ministry of Finance today.The fuel prices
Proton has revealed the measures to counteract it with use of silent high-pressure fuel pump, injector
While most of us suffer from empty fuel tank anxiety the moment the fuel gauge drops to 2 bars, some
The inevitable fuel price increase is upon us all.
To most average Malaysians, one of the key factors in buying a car is good fuel economy and for a lot
roaming the streets of Riyadh and Jeddah.However, even the Saudis realise how important it is to improve fuel
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I was interviewed internally for a job where I currently work and was asked to explain what RSPL was. It stands for Rated Spring Pre Load and it is altering the stiffness of a spring by using different size shims, thus altering the nozzle opening pressure of a fuel injector. But I couldn’t explain it. I couldn’t put it into words. It was a task that I performed day in, day out and was critical to do my job yet I sat there going “Uhhhh… Ermmm…”. I knew the two guys interviewing and they kept reassuring me that it was ok and just a mental block but I couldn’t explain it, I just couldn’t. Of course, when I walked out of there I could explain it with clarity but at the time I just couldn’t find the words. I didn’t get the job but used to be seconded to that team quite often, but it was painfully awkward for me, especially as I knew the answer.
Most other answers to this question suggest extensive internal engine modifications. The Nissan CA18DET found in Japanese 180SX from 1988 to 1991 and European 200SX from '88 to '94 had 166 bhp or 169 bhp. Bolt on modifications can increase the power 330 bhp. Fundamental to this upgrade is a larger turbocharger and more boost pressure. Free flow air filter Free flow exhaust Boost controller to achieve 17psi boost pressure Uprated intercooler T28 hybrid turbo Uprated fuel pump 444cc injectors from a GTiR (SR20DET engine) or Skyline (RB26DETT engine) Z32 AFM Super unleaded fuel (>97 RON) To exceed this power internal modifications are needed. Forged pistons and connecting rods. Cams with adjustable degree sprockets. A common modification is to fit an exhaust cam in the inlet side. There are cams available that use shim under bucket solid lifters from GT-R RB26DETT instead of hydraulic lifters. Tubular fabricated exhaust manifold. Larger inlet plenum. Light porting. Even bigger fuel injectors. Newer high energy coil on plug ignition that can eliminate the igniter module. Aftermarket ECU or a reprogramable eprom emulator. Big turbocharger running around 20 psi boost. The highest performance examples are usually run on E85 or race fuel. Sweden and Australia both have E85 commonly available at fuel stations.
Manufacturer workshop manuals. Honda, Kawasaki, Suzuki and Yamaha print and sell workshop manuals for all their models to dealers and workshops. Essentially all of the parts are named and cross referenced to the manufacturer stock lists as are the tolerances. You can look at the exploded diagrams of the motorbikes and see how everything fits together and the special tools you need. The next step is to buy a few old bikes both pre 2000 and post 2000 to take apart and rebuild. Pre 2000 bikes use carburettors, rarely had ABS, sometimes had drum brakes and use CDI or even points ignition. Also many of the electronic components are separate. For instance you have an indicator relay, a CDI a reg/rec. Later bikes combined this into one black box unit. Post 2000 bikes use fuel injectors, have ABS, linked brakes, inverted forks anti dive forks, radial brakes and often use tapered roller bearings. The engines are almost all shimmed rather than lock nut on the valves. There are also more valves and valves may have some sort of variable timing mechanism on them.
Engines can make all sorts of funny sounds, and honestly we shouldn’t be surprised when they do. There are all sorts of moving parts and rotating things, not to mention explosions going on inside of them. As a mechanic you hear the phrase “my engine is making a strange noise” relatively often. Strange noises can be anything from humming to screeching or clunking. In this article we’re going to talk through a ticking engine and how to repair the problem. The first thing to realize if you have a tick in your engine is that it is likely due to one of the reciprocating components rather than a rotating component. Things like bad bearings or accessories will usually make whirring or whining noises as they rotate while reciprocating components like your pistons, rods, valves and pushrods usually make ticks, clunks or ratcheting type sounds. The tick in your engine could be from normal wear of your motor running or it could be an indication that something is wrong. First, let’s talk through some ticks your motor may have that aren’t a problem. If you have a fuel injected car one of the ticks you could be hearing could be your injectors firing. Your fuel injectors are small electrical valves that open and close very quickly allowing a certain amount of fuel to be injected with the air your engine is drawing in. Some vehicles, like many Subarus, have injectors that you can actually hear opening and closing at idle. It should sound like a sharp pencil tapping on a desk and be very rhythmic. Injectors ticking are not a problem and you can drive on in confidence. Another tick could be from an exhaust gas leak somewhere in your exhaust manifold. For more information about how to find a fix an exhaust gas leak checkout our article on fixing exhaust leaks. The last likely cause of your engine ticking is a noisy valve train. Your valves have to open and close once for every 2 times your engine spins around. In an overhead cam engine, the camshaft itself depresses the valve while in single cam engines, the cam actuates push rods that open the valves by moving a lever called the rocker arm. Since your valves move very quickly and only move a short distance, the distance from the cam to the valve or push rod has to be very precise. These distances are controlled using shims or other adjustments and as normal wear occurs those distances can move out of tolerance. If there is any play in the components you can usually hear them “tick” as they shift around while your engine is running. Also, your valve train requires a lot of lubrication so a tick could indicate that you have a low oil level, or possibly even that you are in need of an oil change because your old, dirty oil just isn’t keeping things lubricated enough. Engine TickingIf you hear a trick coming from your motor, it could be indicating you have a low oil level. Having a low oil level in your vehicle can cause a significant amount of damage or even be catastrophic to you vehicle’s engine. If you hear a tick coming from your motor, check the oil level immediately.
Just like any other engine check :— The ignition system including the spark plugs, ignition leads (particularly on the boots which sit inside the spark plug wells), distributor cap (check for cracks) & the rotor button Check engine compression Check the fuel injectors Check for air leaks at the inlet manifold The valve lifter bucket to valve stem clearance cannot be manually adjusted without a shim kit to adjust the valve clearance,if the valve clearance is too tight when measured that means that the shim has to be measured with a set of micrometers then the actual measured clearance has to be subtracted from the desired clearance so that amount thinner shim can be fitted in its place. Too tighter valve clearance can cause the valves to hold open,the engine to lose compression, misfire & run rough as well as burn the valves out. My mother 2000 model Toyota Corolla has the Original 7AFE engine fitted which has over 220,200 kilometres (136,826 miles) on the odometer & it doesn't misfire !
In the present experimental investigations the influence of injector opening pressures and injection timings on the engine performance and exhaust emissions of a naturally aspirated single cylinder diesel engine. Fuel injection opening pressures can be varied by changing the spring tension of the needle valve of injector nozzle.The injection timings can be varied by changing the thickness of the shim. At higher injector opening pressures CO, HC, smoke emissions reduces significantly for all test fuel but NOx increases. At advance injection timing, brake specific fuel consumption (BSFC) and NOx increases. At advance injection timing, smoke emissions were observe to be reduce but increases with retarded injection timing. These are some ways which i have researched on to be apply and experimentally proven. If any doubt feel free to ask.
Okay so you have added a bigger turbo now you want the fuel supply to use that available air. You can break into a mechanical fuel pump and shim the fuel racks so they open more or just screw the pump open. It’s that easy to do but with opening fuel pumps up above manufacturers specs you risk several things. Pumps won’t last as long. You risk creating a leaky injector which will drill a hole through your pistons. Also will create more heat so your cooling equipment will have to be top notch. Next the heads and head gaskets need attention. Extra air plus extra fuel increases compression ratio and power output so you may have to put special head gaskets in place to handle the increase in loads and power output. Have fun
That depends. Old mechanical system or modern common rail diesel. In old mechanical systems the injection pump supplies the fuel pressure. The springs in the injectors keep the pintle closed until the fuel pressure is enough to overcome the spring tension and lift it off it’s seat, thus spraying the fuel into the engine. This pressure is anywhere from 1600 to 2500 psi. Taking the injectors apart and changing shims under the spring can increase or decrease this pressure. You want the injectors to be within about 200 psi of each other. Common rail is an entirely different animal. There is no “injection pump” per se, but rather a high pressure fuel pump that delivers fuel to the injectors at a constant pressure of between 30,000 and 40,000 psi. That’s right 40 THOUSAND. The computer then controls opening of the injectors. It controls how long and how many times the injectors open. Yes, with common rail, there can be up to 7 injections for each power stroke. There is always high pressure fuel at the injectors. The mechanical type gets high pressure fuel only when it is time for an injection, and only one injection per combustion event. Long winded explanation for how much pressure is at the injectors, but I hope this helps.
It depends on which diesel engine you are referring to. Detroit 2-stroke diesel engine injector timing is set by adjusting the length of travel on the injector which requires special knowledge of the 2-stroke engine and a set of Sweeny Detroit injector pins, selecting the proper one you will need according to your engine arrangement number. If the engine in question is an early Cummins you would use a Cummins timing tool and set the timing by adding or removing shims from the cam follower boxes, again depending on the engine’s CPL (critical parts listing) number. Many other mechanical injected engines are simpler in design. Perkins, Caterpillar, and International engines have timing marks either on the dampener or the flywheel which you set to the proper degree and align a pair of marks, one on the rotor and one on the body of the injector pump under an inspection plate on the side of the pump. If the timing needs to be adjusted, remove a cover in front of the pump, loosen the timing gear bolts to the pump slightly within the slots of the gear and turn the pump to line up the marks making sure the engine does not move, and then re-tighten the timing gear bolts to the proper torque. Some engines, mostly smaller engines, require shimming the injector pump plunger housings, which is involved and not for the untrained technician. Special equipment and gauges are required to set these engines, and some older Caterpillar engines us this method as well. These are older mechanical injected engines that I have described and not electronic engines. Modern technology makes the timing decisions in electronically controlled diesel engines for you as needed for torque demand, RPM, and free loading at cruising speed. Way more efficient than old school technology which results in better fuel economy and lower emissions.