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Review Post subaru forester radiator
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Review Q&A subaru forester radiator
Is the Subaru Forester a good car?
They are very reliable. As a tech I don't like to have to work on my car so I drive one I don't have too. I currently drive a 2001 Subaru Forester with 245,000 miles. I bought it with 170,000 and other than a radiator(was busted when I bought it), tires, brakes, spark plugs and belts haven't done anything else(I did all that work due to mileage). It had not been Well taken care of but I wasn't worried. I used to have a 1998 Forester I bought with 115,000 and sold with 250,000 last I heard was still going over 360,000 miles. I'd say they are very reliable.
What ridiculousy expensive repair convinced you to sell your vehicle?
I loved my Sable. It had a quarter of a mil on it and used no oil. It started overheating and I tried a couple of things to fix it and finally went whole hog. Radiator, water pump and all. As I did all the work, it only cost about $300.00. Back on the road with a brand new cooling system check engine light comes on as one cylinder is misfiring. Checked it all out, getting fuel, check, getting spark, check. Crap! I burned the head gasket. No way I am pulling the heads off a V6. I’m too old for that s___. Estimate from shop at least a grand. I was tempted, especially after replacing the cooling system. Plus the compression was great. ,(Edit; Tried to make the answer short but in essence, the rings were good as it used no oil and it was a compression test which verified the blown head gasket. Hope that clears it up a bit.) When they towed it away, I was like a boy seeing his dog put down but putting another thousand into a vehicle with 250,000 miles just does not compute. Time to cut my losses. I bought a Subaru Forester with 200k on it for $500.00 and three years later I'm still driving it. Buy them cheap and drive them until they drop.
What auto will continue to function when its odometer exceeds 200,000 miles?
Most of the cars on the market today, to be quite honest. The only difference between them is how many times you will have to fix them to make that happen and how much each repair will cost. Cars I’ve owned in the last ten years that made it past the big 200: 1991 Jeep Comanche w/ 4.0L and AT. I bought this at 207k miles, and it’s currently over 275k. Components replaced due to failure: radiator, brake lines, front axle housing, fuel tank, all due to the salty environment I live in. 1998 Jeep Cherokee w/ 4.0L and AT. Bought at 209k, survived to 277k before being parted out to keep my other Jeeps alive. Components replaced due to failure: engine, transmission, brake lines, radiator, ignition coil. 2000 Subaru Forester w/ 2.5L and MT. Bought at 197k, survived to 268k. Components replaced due to failure: head gaskets (FOUR TIMES including previous owners repairs), both front wheel bearings, rear driveshaft, engine block (twice - plus one I killed by running it low on oil), brake lines, radiator, ignition coil, front brakes due to slide pins seizing up and causing uneven wear, front wiper motor linkage, rear wiper motor, rear struts, one front CV shaft. Parted out when the chassis became too rusty to repair and the transmission lost third and fifth gear dog teeth to the point that it had to be held in gear. 2001 Subaru Forester w/ 2.5L and MT. Bought at 217k, survived to 270k. Components replaced due to failure: front balljoints, brakes (slide pins caused failure again), head gaskets several times by previous owners, clutch slave and master cylinder, rear wiper motor, front wheel bearings. Engine, clutch, and rear differential were all failing when I wrecked it and sold it because it wasn’t worth fixing. 1994 Subaru Justy w/ 1.2L and MT 4x4. Bought at 231k, currently dead at 235k due to the oil pump and timing cover failing like they all do. Components replaced due to failure: both rear struts, engine needs rebuild, second gear synchro is worn out. 2001 Subaru Forester w/ 2.5L and AT. Bought at 213k, currently at 249k and counting. Components replaced due to failure (so far): radiator, water pump, 3 different AC system hoses, engine, rear left wheel bearing, rear wiper motor, brakes (again due to slide pins seizing up). Currently failing: transmission, rear right wheel bearing, front balljoints, AC compressor. I also own several other Jeeps that are under 200k which I will either exceed 200k with, or die trying. One is a 1988 Jeep Comanche that’s just hit 162k and another is a 1958 Kaiser Jeep M54A2 at 52k which would require 356 8-hour days of continuous driving to reach 200k, and at its current average of less than 1000 miles per year will probably hit 200k sometime around the year 2200. I don’t recommend cars - aside from my blanket statement that everyone should buy Honda or Toyota if they just want to get from point A to point B reliably and economically - but if you tell me what you’re looking at and it’s at least 5–10 years old I can tell you what particular painful experiences that car will likely bring you. There’s a butt for every seat, no such thing as a perfect car and the only real choice you have is which kind of pain you prefer and how much you want it to cost you. As you can probably tell, I prefer Jeeps that rarely actually fail aside from rust issues and 15 year old Subarus that I have to replace the engines in every year or two.
Is Subaru really that much better than other cars? Or do they just market better?
My wife and I currently own a 2005 Subaru Forester Turbo. I have disassembled and serviced much of the car, and we’ve had the engine rebuilt once. It currently has around 240,000 miles on it. We’ve also owned numerous cars in our lives, from Cadillac and Buick, to Datsun, Mazda, Mitsubishi, Dodge, Ford, Chevy and several others. I also worked as a mechanic servicing BMW, Mini, Rolls-Royce, VW, Audi and Porsche. The good news is Subarus perform really well during their first few years. Their balanced feel, accurate steering, excellent brakes and great AWD system works as it should. Their ergonomics are pretty good as well, and they just feel fundamentally right, in terms of seating position, wheel and pedal position, visibility and road feel/response. The bad news is after the honeymoon wears off, they break, and they break in really ugly ways. To start with are the now infamous leaking head gasket issues. There are two kinds of Subie owners. Those who have leaking head gaskets and those who will have leaking head gaskets. And replacing those is a huge PITA, because with the opposed-flat layout, the entire motor must come out of the car, depending on application. Normally aspirated Subies with a closed deck cylinder block are much better and can last a long time. The open deck Subies, especially those with a turbocharger are problematic. Then there’s the excess oil usage issue. The cracking turbo housing issue. The bad turbo bearing issue. The power steering cavitation issues. The cracked radiator tank issues. The cracked exhaust manifold problems. Plastic sunroof parts that fail and leave you with a $2000 sunroof replacement bill. The oil cooler hose and O-ring failures that drip hot oil on your exhaust manifold and cause under-hood smoke. The A/C clutch wear and shimming issue. The steering rack wear and failure problem. Wheel bearing failures. Even their coolant thermostat is placed at the bottom of the engine, instead of at the top, making it more difficult to service. If you drive your non-turbo Subaru for several years and trade it in on a new one, you’re all good. They can be a true pleasure to own and drive, especially in freezing, icy conditions. However if you like to keep and maintain a car for 6, 10 or 15 years, they can easily become a money pit. So, at least in our experience, Subaru is definitely not “better” than other cars. In fact, in many ways, they can be worse! What they are very good at is marketing. Their ad campaigns strike at the human heart. Where Ford tries to wow you with high-tech features like Ecoboost and aluminum bodies, or Chevy tries to convince you that a Chevy has more appeal than the competition, and Dodge is marketing performance and Hemi engines, Subaru is selling kids, dogs, families, safety, the environment and high-school graduations. It’s not a track shoe, or combat boot, or fancy pair of wingtips. It’s a comfortable pair of loafers, and that’s the image they drive home so incredibly well.
What issues did you find your car had after you bought it?
My wife and I bought a 2005 Subaru Forester XT based on numerous accolades in magazines and even from Consumer Reports. What we didn’t know was that this particular model/year/range had a known chronic engine problem, which Subaru refused to accept responsibility for. The 2.5 liter turbocharged four in these vehicles suffers from a well-documented design flaw in the turbocharger oiling system. The result is that the turbo bearing doesn’t receive enough oil, overheats, and then causes the turbo housing to crack and fail. This also causes a cascade of related failures involving everything from engine overheating, leaking cylinder head gaskets, cracked radiators and cracked exhaust manifolds, as well as very high oil usage. Numerous owners have reported this problem to Subaru, yet they’ve chosen to do absolutely nothing about it, especially since these problems don’t start to become serious enough to warrant attention until the car is out of warranty. The engine replacement in our Subaru cost us a whopping $10,000 out of pocket! It’s a flaw which has affected literally thousands of Subaru owners with this engine, and they have absolutely no recourse. It’s for this reason that we will never buy another Subaru product - ever…
What car is the easiest and cheapest to repair and maintain? Or, conversely, what cars rarely need repair?
I went through the answers and want to make a few points. J.D. Power reliability is skewed, but how? People with a Kia know it is a cheaper vehicle, might be their first brand new car and they over look little problems which make it seem better than it is. Some cars people buy expecting perfection Lexus or BMW are going to get picked apart for any and every problem. There and many cars that are great when properly taken care of, but what that care is can vary just as much as the cars do. Now, unless you are prepared to diagnosis and repair the car yourself that is a starting point. European cars cost more period, parts, labor, and maintenance. American cars vary, labor is usually cheaper, most parts are cheaper, but reliability isn't the best (I'm just being honest). Japanese cars, labor is usually low to mid price, parts usually just a little more than American, reliability goes by brand Honda, Toyota, Subaru are good, Mazda ok, Nissan hit and miss, Mitsubishi poor. Korean cars labor low to mid, parts mid for what's available outside the dealership, reliability so-so. (My opinions, disagree then write your own) I drive a 2001 Subaru Forester, I paid $700 cause the guy cracked the radiator and drove it till he blew the head gasket. Got a salvage motor out of a 2003 for $300 and a radiator for $30. I have put 70,000 miles on this car and I drive hard. I'm a master tech so if there was a problem no big deal. This car would not have been worth paying someone to fix( maybe if you knew it would be good for 70,000 miles). Basically, if you can do some repairs yourself more cars become cheap, if you can't any car can be expensive after one repair. Personally, Subaru is my #1, Toyota #2 , and then Honda put gotta to make sure it isn't one prone to their transmission issues. Avoid any sporty models, only turbo model Subaru I would consider would be a Forester. Remember not all parts have to be new, but some definitely should, know which.
How long should a new Subaru last if proper maintenance is done? What is the highest mileage Subaru you own?
I honestly can’t tell you how long one would last. I can provide a unique perspective. I started as a GM technician working at a Chevy dealership. A few years later a friend called me and asked if I would be interested in being a Subaru tech. I told him I don't know anything about them, but I went to hear what they had to offer. It was 2001, I accepted the offer which included me going to the Subaru factory training. I thought they were really neat and well put together little cars. I was really impressed by how they did consider repairs when designing these vehicles. The engine wiring harness unplugs on the passenger side rear of engine nice and easy. The air distribution case is modular and can be removed pretty easily after removing the glove box(not the entire dash like most cars). It's a big job to pull an engine, but I have pulled the engine out of a 1998 Forester 5-speed in less than 45 minutes, (I can't tell you another car tat can be done near that time other than maybe an old air cooler VW bug. I have had 2 Subaru Foresters now. I had 1998 Forester, I bought with 125,000 miles, and sold with 280,000 miles in 2008 and I know they still drive it. I now drive a 2001 Forester with I bought for $700 with 162,000 miles because the guy cracked the radiator and drove till it blew the head gaskets. I bought a 2003 engine from salvage for $300(it was cheaper and quicker than doinghead gaskets). I now have 237,000 miles on it. I plan on replacing it around 300,000. The most miles I have ever seen on a gas vehicle was a 1979 Subaru Brat that came into the dealership with 526,000 miles. Now, this thing was rough. It was AWD and had a 4 speed transmission with hi and low range. They wanted the transmission rebuilt because it was stuck in low range. This was when I first started working on Subarus and I checked we did not have a service manual that went back that far, we didn't have any before 1994. I went to parts and their computer didn't go back that far. I did manage to get it into bi range. We told them our issue and tat we could not rebuild it but that it was in high range now. I never saw it again, but that's crazy mileage on anything.
Will a transmission flush stop my transmission from slipping?
I would do a stall test: With the engine/trans warmed up -as in after driving a few miles - sitting in a safe place with the engine idling in Drive, hold the brake with your left foot and push the accelerator down while watching the tachometer. If the tach goes above say, 2500 RPM, then you probably need to either rebuild the trans or swap in another one. However, if the RPM levels out around 2200–2500 RPM even if you push down on the gas, that’s a sign the clutches inside are not slipping. You should repeat the test in reverse but wait for a few minutes letting the engine idle so the fluid can cool off. Don’t do this test repeatedly, because it really heats up the fluid. If the result is the same in reverse, then I’d say the problem may be remedied with a fluid change/flush. I did this three years ago to a 2006 Subaru Forester that seemed to have trouble shifting. The shifts were not “clean” they sort of dragged out like it was slipping. I noted that the fluid on the dipstick was very dark and seemed watery. If you can pass the stall test I described above, and the fluid is dark and not pink, a flush might help. The Subi I worked on is still going strong. The owner asked me to look at it after a dealer told her she needed a new transmission and wanted $1600 for installing a used one. -fixed it for about $55 worth of ATF. A flush is very messy if you do it yourself. Take the hose off of the cooler (bottom of the radiator) and put a bucket under the outlet. Top off the fluid with fresh ATF. Have a helper start the engine and let it idle for 30 sec. or so while watching the fluid coming out. A clear hose into the bucket is useful here. Kill the engine and top off the fluid again. Don’t let it run until nothing comes out! You don’t want air in there. Top off and repeat -shouldn’t take more than a few times but you have to have plenty of fresh ATF. Check the owner’s manual for ATF capacity and buy 2x that. When the discharge is nice and pink, reattach the hose and top it off. If the hose pops out of the bucket as it did with me, you’ll have a mess to clean up! -but you also may have fixed your car problem. Note: I found the stall test by looking in a (Subaru) service manual. Those will pay for themselves many times over. You can often find them in CD format on eBay for much less than the printed versions.
What is the price for a 2008 Subaru Forester coolant leak in the radiator?
That would entirely depend on whether the radiator would need a re-core or replacement, and the cost of labor in your jurisdiction. Ask an automotive center, they will be glad to give you a quote.
Do you drive an excellent used car that you would recommend to anyone?
I drive 2001 Subaru Forester I bought with 170,000 miles on it with a blown head gasket cause the previous owner replaced the upper radiator hose an tightened it till it broke the radiator and tried to glue it back together(it didn't work). I paid $700 for it. WHY? I used to have a 1998 Forester I bought with 125,000 miles sold it in 2010 with 260,000 and it is still going. So I bought the 2001 for $700 and an engine from pull a part for $300 fixed some other things and spent total like $1400 and now it has 238,000 mile with no problems. I thing that's pretty good for a cheap high mileage car. I will be fair and say I drive it hard. I plan on getting something else when I get near 300,000 miles, not because it will be worn out but because I really need something bigger.
FAQs Terkait subaru forester radiator
Does Subaru Forester has Seatbelt Reminder?
Yes, Subaru Forester has Seatbelt Reminder, which are: 2019 Subaru Forester 2.0i-S EyeSight, 2019 Subaru Forester 2.0i-S, 2019 Subaru Forester 2.0i-L, 2018 Subaru Forester 2.0i-P, 2018 Subaru Forester 2.0 XT.
Does Subaru Forester has Power Socket?
Yes, Subaru Forester has Power Socket, which are: 2019 Subaru Forester 2.0i-S EyeSight, 2019 Subaru Forester 2.0i-S, 2019 Subaru Forester 2.0i-L, 2018 Subaru Forester 2.0i-P, 2018 Subaru Forester 2.0 XT.
Is Subaru Forester available in Seat Features(Passenger)?
Yes, Subaru Forester is available in Seat Features(Passenger). The available Seat Features(Passenger) variants are: 2019 Subaru Forester 2.0i-S EyeSight, 2019 Subaru Forester 2.0i-S, 2019 Subaru Forester 2.0i-L, 2018 Subaru Forester 2.0i-P.
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