vw golf overheating
Artikel Terkait vw golf overheating
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Review Post vw golf overheating
My iPhone overheating like a VW golf 1. Can’t hold hold this thing for more than a minute https://t.co/Qw4pELNjZ3
When a VW Golf engine is overheating. https://t.co/OceaZx3GLh
VW Golf. I owned a Citi (that was enough). Even mechanics who own these are walking 🚶.Fuel pumps are like coolant (keep buying), overheating, electricals are demon possessed, random breakdowns are the norm. Never ever buy! https://t.co/U1hm8jy9it
http://www.fixya.com vw golf 2.0 gti, overheating,: vw golf 2.0 gti, overheating, boili.. http://tinyurl.com/5mzxbu
@UKVolkswagen @grumpyolddriver looks like I'm not the only one with a VW golf overheating! Seems to be a common fault ?
2014 VW Golf GTD with an overheating engine issue yesterday. We found the water pump wasn’t operating as efficiently as it should so we fitted a new Water Pump and Timing Belt to get the car back on the road.... https://t.co/Rj4d3xQVuA
Talking wife through how to limp home an overheating engine with heater on full highest gear etc. But this is a 6 month VW! Golf!!
@VW_Golf_SA Help plz!! My 79 Golf has problems with the coil overheating and cutting the car out. It is elect ignition now with a red coil.
@UgTuner @welsh021077 @Outcast_Crimson @RockstarGames A game shouldn’t have to force you to leave your console on risking it overheating in order to buy a fucking VW Golf
VW Golf overheating in this kidda weather!
Review Q&A vw golf overheating
What will happen if I use a 10W-40 oil instead of a 15W-40 on my Kia Picanto engine?
The correct oil for a Kia Picanto is a 5w-30 according to the official charts. I don’t know what age or region your Kia is from but even the oldest 2004 SA models use that grade . The ‘5w (or 10w, or 15w) at the front of your oil grade describes how your oil behaves at 40 deg C… So a 15w-40 behaves like a 15 weight oil behaves when a 15 weight oil is at 40 deg C…And behaves like a 40 weight oil when a 40 weight oil is at 100 deg C. The difference is when the engine first starts, the oil is much thicker than when it is fully hot. the hot parts of the engine VERY rapidly reach very high temperatures and if oil remains in contact with those very hot areas for long, it will cook, stop being oil, and mechanical wear ensues. The thicker the COLD oil, the slower it passes those superheated points. 30 years ago, when 15w-40 oils were the norm in the UK, it was typical to see VW Golfs exhibiting signs of engine wear (piston ring and exhaust valve guide) at 65,000 miles. That was ENTIRELY due to the ‘15w’ part of the oil overheating before it could thin out before the car was fully warm and almost 100 percent of that wear happened in the first couple of miles. ( the whole 10w-40‘oil draining away faster’ thing is nonsense because once hot, a 10w-40 and a 15w-40 are exactly the same viscosity and will drain at exactly the same very fast rate until the engine has cooled. It takes about a minute to fully drain a fully hot engine like yours and it takes a good 5 minutes before a fully hot engine loses even 20 degrees of temperature…..) Your best choice of multigrade 40 is a 0w-40, or a 0w-30 fully synthetic but a 5w-40 or 5w-30 will also be fine. 10w-40 will always be better than 15w-40 but both are 40 year old tech and won’t let your engine stay healthy for all that long. Little engines need very good oils if they are to remain healthy for 60,000 miles plus because they are asked to give more of their available power all the time and that means they heat faster
On average, how long do you keep your cars?
Kind of embarrassing but 18 mo or so. My driving is 40 to 45k miles a year. Used car at 100k or so, 95% highway. Buy solid 1 or 2 owner private party with some or all records so you know it was cared for, mainly oil changes. It's all about your situation and what you can spend. Most modern cars are ok to 200k. That said stay away from anything with an oil cap that's crusty or leaking very much. Shows poor maintaining. If you live in the big city there are many pitfalls. Undercarriage wear is more from bad streets. Stop and go is tough on all parts. Basic math- buy new, take care of it & expect 200k with minimal cash per mile. So calculate COST PER MILE for any purchase. Currently have a 2013 Honda Accord. Bought used $17k, 4 yr loan, 26,000 miles. Expect 4 yrs to go 180k more so low 200's in miles. The Honda will hold together well & tires, oil, trans fluid changes are cheap insurance. As Jesus said “take care of your ass for it bears you”. Change your oil & put quality synthetic in it. Cheap oil ruins more engines than anything besides overheating (#1 cause of eng fail). My experience in order from 1975. 1967 Olds Cutlass 442, 70 Cadillac, 71 Camaro 6 cyl, 78 Toyota Corolla, 86 SUBARU, 73 Cadilac, 73 VW Beetle Baja, 85 Toyota PU new, 91 Toyota Corolla, 91 Alfa 164 (awsome), 89 Jaguar xj, 89 VW Golf, 86 Peugeot 505, 99 Subaru Forester( best snow car ever), 2000 BMW 323 Coupe, 2007 Subaru Legacy awd, 2013 Honda Accord Coupe. 1988 VW Cabriolet convertible toy. So experience with lots of makes. Note few domestic makes. Still dont trust them but they're improving. Dont get me started! Dad worked for GM for 30 yrs teaching techs how to deal with new systems that the Germans n Japs had already sorted but GM had to reinvent. His boss drove his 85 company car 175 mi from Omaha to Grand Island Ne and pulled into the Olds dealer with a blown trans. 186 miles… Brand new car. Delivered to the region boss of AC Delco parts! Friend has a 2 yr old F150 with bad oil pump at 26k. So buy low mi used, let someone else eat the 1st yr depreciation of 1/3 cost and bank for the next one.
Why is a front engine more common than a rear engine?
Before the front wheels drive (FWD) cars became mainstream, the standard layout was to place the engine longitudinally at the front, followed in line by the clutch and the gearbox with its lever being directly within reach of the driver. A driveshaft with a universal joint at each end transmit the power to the rear axle, which includes the bevel gear providing the final reduction and the required 90° transfer to the wheels shafts, as well as the differential. This architecture (RWD) provides a good directional stability because the engine weight loads the front axle and places the mass center of the vehicle ahead of its center of crosswind thrust. It also avoids the need for articulated joints on the wheels shafts, but it doesn’t put much weight on the driving wheels when the vehicle is empty or almost empty. Another disadvantage is the need for that long driveshaft between the powertrain and the rear axle, and an equally long exhaust line running underneath the car. Still, this solution remains of general use on trucks (except that they have a vertical or lateral exhaust); the BMW, Mercedes, Jaguar, Lexus, Alfa Romeo Giulia, a few other large cars and many sport ones have such a layout as well, but with independent rear wheels, their differential being suspended. Tatra 77, 1934 With the above exceptions and that of buses, racing cars and many sport cars, a front engine with front wheels drive (FWD) has become the common solution. But it has not always been the case. During the 1950’s and 1960’s, the most diffused cars in Europe had their engine in rear overhang. That trend was pioneered by, Mercedes-Benz in the 1930s, (thanks to Donald Ferguson for mentioning it in his comment,), by Hans Ledwinka with the air-cooled Tatra 77 in 1934 and by Dr. Ferdinand Porsche, particularly with the famous Volkswagen Beetle produced at more than 21,500,000 units between 1938 and 2003. VW Beetle Renault followed with the 4 CV, propelled by a small water-cooled 4-cylinder in-line engine in rear overhang. It was built at 1,100,000 units in 5 countries from 1947 to 1961 and followed from 1956 by the slightly bigger Dauphine which used the same basic mechanical components. Renault 4 CV 2,150,000 Dauphine (ten times less than the VW Beetle, but still an impressive number!) were made or assembled in France, Argentina, Australia, Brazil, Israel, Italy, New Zealand, Japan, Spain and USA. The 4 CV / Dauphine layout was retained and updated for the Renault R8 and derivatives (R8 Gordini and R10) produced between 1962 and 1976. Renault Dauphine The Fiat 600 commercialized between 1955 and 1969 had a layout similar as that of the Renault 4 CV. It was also built under the name Seat 600 in Spain, Zastava 750 (later 850) in Yugoslavia, Fiat 600/770 Neckar Jagst in West Germany, as well as in Australia, Argentina, Chile, Colombia, Uruguay and Malaysia. Here again, the Fiat 600 basic conception was used in a whole series of Fiat small cars, amongst them the even smaller Fiat 500 propelled by a 2-cylinder air-cooled engine. Fiat Abarth 1000 TC, a sport-racing car based on the Fiat 600 Similar cars were also mass produced in France (Simca 1000 and derivatives), Czechoslovakia (Skoda 1000 and derivatives), Japan (Hino Contessa) and England (Hillman Imp). Air cooled ones were made in Germany (NSU Prinz / 1000 TT and BMW 600/700) and in Soviet Ukraine (ZAZ Zaporozhets). Tatra T700 In higher segments, various air-cooled Tatra models were manufactured in Czechoslovakia between 1934 and 1999. VW produced also 2,500,000 medium size Type 3 between 1961 and 1973, followed by the Type 4 (411 / 412 models) from 1968 until 1974, both types based on upgraded Beetle mechanical layout. In USA, Chevrolet mass-produced different versions of the Corvair between 1960 and 1969 ; it was also assembled in Belgium, Switzerland, Argentina, Mexico, Venezuela and South Africa. Volkswagen 1500 Type 3 Several attempts to built large rear-engined 4-doors cars were done in USA (see ,Big Rear-Engined Four-Door Cars – Part 1: American Attempts,) and Europe (see ,Big Rear-Engined Four-Door Cars – Part 2: European Efforts,) during the 1930s - 1940s, but with the exceptions of the various Tatra and later the Chevrolet Corvair as well as the mid-segment VW Types 3 /4, none of the prototypes ever reached mass-production. Apparently, the engineers struggled with unsatisfactory directional stability and water-cooled engines overheating. If these shortcomings could be more or less addressed or deemed acceptable with small, low power and relatively low-speed cars, the were exacerbated on more powerful, faster cars. It could have been solved, in particular with front mounted radiators, a better rear suspension like that of the Hillman Imp or 1965 Corvair, wider rear-tires and a suitable aerodynamic design. But most such concepts were not mastered enough at the time and low profile large tires didn’t even exist. 1965 Corvair rear suspension It would be an easy task to work out the said shortcomings today, as very successfully demonstrated by Porsche - and even more so with the now ubiquitous electronic stability program (ESP). Furthermore, a weight distribution with most of it on the rear axle doesn’t necessarily cause directional instability and oversteer, especially if the rear tires are wider than the front ones. That’s shown by the fact that 2-axles trucks are commonly loaded (in Europe) at 11.5 t (metric tons) on the rear axle for a total weight of 18 t, which leaves 6.5 t only on the front axle, thus a weight distribution of 36% front, 64% rear. But since these vehicles have 2 front tires and 4 rear tires, their directional stability is fine and they do not oversteer - in any case not more than a front wheel drive car. And yes, front wheels drive cars do oversteer when driven to the absolute limit at high speed! It’s a myth forged by journalists who never drive them to the limit at high speed that FWD cars systematically understeer. They tend to do so only in small radius corners but they oversteer slightly at high speed - and sometimes even strongly, especially if the road is wet or slippery. Conversely, rear-engine cars can be made to understeer. So, why is a front engine more common than a rear engine? ,My answer is because the rear engine cars mass diffused in the 1940's to 60's were built as cheap as possible and at the expenses of optimal handling. In order to save two universal joints (one per side), those cars had a rear ,swing axle,, a simplistic solution which cause considerable camber variation along the suspension travel. Thus, front engine cars had a better directional stability and handled better, so the customers preferred them. In response, the automotive industry shifted to FWD after engineer Alec Issigonis showed with the Austin/Morris Mini that it was possible to install a 4-in line engine transversally and thus replace the axle expensive bevel gear by a spur one which is easier to manufacture and has a better efficiency. Goliath GP700 (above) and Saab 92 (below) powertrains (sorry, no better pictures available!) A simpler FWD setup is generally credited to Fiat engineer Dante Giacosa who, in 1964, installed the transverse 4-cylinder engine of the Autobianchi Primula asymmetrically on the right side of the car with its transmission in line on the left side, saving on transfer gears and reducing friction losses in the transmission. But a same layout had been applied on the 2-cylinder 2-stroke Saab 92 in 1949, Goliath GP700 in 1952 and the Est-German Trabant in 1957. Giacosa showed that it could be used with 4-cylinder engines too; it has then become the mainstream powertrain and car architecture. Central-rear engine Race cars and sport cars often have the engine in front of the rear axle. This architecture gives an even weight distribution between the two axles and the centering of the heavy components near the vehicle’s center of mass reduces its moment of inertia around said center. The yaw moment is thus lessened, so that the vehicle can change course very easily and quickly. This feature is favorable for a race car, but less so for a commonly used road vehicle because it reduces its directional stability and the pitch oscillations are larger, affecting comfort. The engine can be placed flat under the front or rear seats of a 4 or 5 seater car, but the heat released inevitably spreads to the seats, especially at high ambient temperature, and secondly engine access for maintenance is harder. Volkswagen EA 266 Nevertheless, to replace the venerable "Beetle", VW and Porsche had developed between 1966 and 1971 the type EA 266, of which 50 prototypes were built. The rear passengers were sitting on the engine and the dipstick was 1.02 meters long. Hundreds of millions of DM had been invested in this project and it was very advanced when the new director of VW, Rudolph Leiding suddenly canceled it... and ordered the destruction of the prototypes! The FWD Golf was favored and its success set the trend. The Corvair case It is quite possible that the attack against the US manufacturers and among others against the Chevrolet Corvair by the lawyer Ralph Nader in his bestseller published in 1965 "Unsafe at Any Speed" struck a decisive blow against the rear overhanging engine layout. Corvair Handling and Stability,, excerpts: Due to Nader’s wild charges about the Corvair and the national concerns for automobile safety, the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) was authorized to run a series of comparative tests during the Spring and Summer of 1971 to demonstrate the handling of the 1963 Corvair against four contemporary competitive automobiles. Involved in the tests were The Ford Falcon, Plymouth Valiant, Volkswagen Beetle, Renault Dauphine, the 1963 Corvair, and a 1967 Corvair for reference. The Corvair Is Exonerated At the conclusion of these tests, the NHTSA released its 134 page report. It exonerated the Corvair from Nader’s charges, and said things such as: "The 1960-63 Corvair compares favorably with contemporary vehicles used in the tests," and, "The handling and stability performance of the 1960-63 Corvair does not result in an abnormal potential for loss of control or rollover, and it is at least as good as the performance of some contemporary vehicles both foreign and domestic." The complete report, PB 211-015, can be obtained from the ,National Technical Information Service, (NTIS)*. An Independent Panel Agrees Because the NHTSA wanted to be as sure as possible of their approach, tests and conclusions, they then contracted with a three man advisory panel of independent professional engineers to review the scope and competency of the NHTSA tests. This review panel then issued their own 24 page report (PB 211-014, also available from the NTIS*). In their report, the Panel drew even stronger conclusions in support of the Corvair than the NHTSA. They said, "It is the opinion of the panel that the Corvair quantitatively meets or exceeds the standards set by contemporary cars in stability tests, cornering tests, and rollover tests," and, "for this reason the panel concluded that the 1960-63 Corvair does not have a safety defect, and is not more unstable or more likely to roll over than contemporary cars." Nader is Proven Wrong Wow, go back and read that again. No safety or handling defects in the Corvair! But does anybody know this? The news media all but ignored these conclusions. They apparently thought that Nader’s charges were of greater news value than the fact that his charges were all proven wrong. Even today, of those who know of Nader’s charges against the Corvair, few if any know that his charges were false and were proven wrong. No, the fact that the Corvair was exonerated of all of Nader’s charges was hardly publicized. It received little or no attention from the media. It is ironic that these false charges concerning the Corvair’s handling and stability are all anyone remembers, and are the only story ever told in the Press, even though they have been fully refuted by actual tests. Nader, of course, built his career on these false charges. However, the 1960 to 63 Corvair had a swing rear axle of the same simplistic concept adopted on most other rear engined cars, which involved a very high roll center and strong camber variations, as already mentioned. Corvair rear suspension evolution In 1964, the Corvair handling was further improved with a front anti-roll bar in conjunction with what they called a “camber compensator”. Actually, it was a rear transverse single leaf compensation spring of the same type used on the Porsche 356 Super 90. It tends to equalize the weight on the rear wheels, acting on the contrary of an anti-roll bar, being namely a “pro-roll bar”. It works in association with softer rear main suspension springs and a strong front anti-roll bar, increasing the roll resistance of the front axle while decreasing that of the rear axle. The results in a more neutral cornering behavior and even better drive wheels traction. In 1959 Mercedes had added a compression coil spring over the center of their single joint swing axle ,(above picture), on the 220 W111 in order to obtain the same effect. The result is well shown ,below ,with this 300 SEL 6.8 AMG: See also ,Racecar Engineering March 2018,, page 52 In 1965 the Corvair received the totally new rear suspension (shown previously), similar to that of the Corvette. It further improved its handling, allowing it to reach a lateral acceleration of 0.7 g - a remarkable value with the tires of that time. This fact establishes that a rear overhanging engine is perfectly compatible with excellent dynamic qualities, as the Porsche 911 has also amply demonstrated. VW 412 There is a lot of room in the overhang behind the rear axle and this space is usually partly lost. By placing the peripherals of a water-cooled flat engine on the sides into the fenders, its height can be further reduced - especially with side exhaust manifolds and possibly with dry sump lubrication. A dual-disc or multi-disc clutch would have a smaller diameter and the entire powertrain would be little higher than a spare wheel. The spare wheel can be placed under the front trunk, between two radiators - since the engine must be water-cooled. Air cooled engines are too noisy and they need a powerful fan which takes up to 15% of the crankshaft power. The engine can be of the opposed cylinders type or conventionally in-line, longitudinal eccentric or else transversal with the crankshaft ahead and the cylinder head in the back. An in-line engine is a little simpler to produce industrially because it requires only one cylinder head, a single exhaust manifold and a single overhead camshaft (or a single pair of camshafts). Since the rear wheels do not steer, there is more width available for the engine than between the front fenders. It is also less necessary to provide a deformation zone at the rear, so that the available space in length is also higher. The fuel tank can be located under the front seats or else under the rear seats, as usual. The car would then have two trunks, one at the rear over the engine and a front one too. The rear tires should be wider than the front ones, for example 205/55R16 front and 225/50R16 rear. Both having exactly the same rolling circumference, the spare 205/55R16 could be temporarily used at the rear. With a front anti-roll bar and if necessary a compensation spring at the rear, the car will handle perfectly, better than any front wheels drive. Renault Twingo III: its engine is not really flat, but still there’s a lot of cargo space above it. A whole series of advantages result in cascade: As already mentioned, the car can have a boot in the front in addition to the rear trunk. The load on the drive wheels is important and it increases further uphill and in acceleration. The turning diameter can be reduced and the stresses on the half-shafts joints are minimized. Due to reduced front axle load and its smaller tires, the power steering may be unnecessary. A preponderant mass distribution on the rear provides a better load balance in braking, which shortens the stopping distances. 4 unventilated disks may suffice. The heat released by the powertrain is evacuated to the rear and it heats less the cabin. Air conditioning, which consumes considerable power and adds a dozen kg, is less necessary. The hot exhaust does not pass under the car, which shortens and lighten it while allowing to lower the vehicle. The tunnel and the center console, which makes the passage from one side to another scabrous or even impossible and forces to spread out the front seats, have no longer any reason to exist. Their removal is eased by an electronic control of the transmission and an electric parking-brake, allowing either a reduction of the frontal area or 3 front seats side by side. The NSU Prinz 1000 had a transverse air-cooled 4-cylinder A Porsche 911 powered by a 427 CI (7 liters) V8 Chevrolet LS7 (,LSX Magazine) Francois Dovat's answer to Would you buy a rear-engine car like the VW 412 or Chevy Corvair if there was a modern affordable one in production? Rear-engine design - Wikipedia The Story of the Rear Engined Passenger car, (thanks to Steve Dudley)
Which car should I buy, petrol or diesel?
I like Diesel engines. However the circumstances under which I would recommend one are becoming fewer. Modern petrol (gasoline) engines can be very efficient - depending upon the performance and how you drive them, of course. Unless you're doing high ,mileage,, say over about 50 miles a day, the additional fuel economy is not likely to be a convincing advantage, based on the fact the Diesel fuel is more expensive and there will be a premium on the purchase price of the car. Although some modern Diesels are much cleaner than their recent ancestors, the process inherently produces more particulates (soot) which contributes to air pollution particularly in cities, causing smog and contributing to respiratory problems. The particulates produced are of an annoying size which is too small to be trapped by the hairs in the human respiratory system (cilia) but still large enough to cause problems when they become lodged in your lungs. Depending upon where in the world you are, some governments particularly in Western Europe have imposed additional taxes at sale or on fuel to discourage the adoption of Diesel cars. Depending on your daily drive and other usage patterns, I would say to look seriously at a hybrid or even fully electric vehicle. With a plug-in hybrid, you might be able to do most if not all of your daily commute on battery power. This would be cheaper than buying fuel and contribute no local pollution. Tax would likely be cheaper as well due to combined emissions being low. You might need to get a dedicated charging point installed at your home to charge at the maximum possible rate. I recently test drove a VW Golf GTE which was excellent, maybe even a better driving experience than a Golf Diesel. They quote up to 31 miles range and it can achieve 70mph on battery power alone. You do not need to be an expert in understanding how it works to make the most of the hybrid capability, you just drive. ,Long-term test review: VW Golf GTE ,Other hybrid cars are available and may also be good! Whilst a fully-electric vehicle (preferably combined with a "green" electricity tariff) is the ultimate in environmental friendliness, it may not be the best choice for all-round use such as weekend days out in the country. In most parts of the world you may find the battery range limiting. I believe California and some other parts of the US have really good charging networks, but with even the best current technology it is always going to take longer to recharge than to just fill up with fossil fuels. There are some situations where a Diesel would win hands-down. For very high mileage, lots of motorway (freeway) driving, the economy cannot be matched. Also if you have use cases where lots of torque is required, such as towing or off-road driving, it looks much more favourable to choose a Diesel. Finally, one of the reasons I like Diesels is due to their reliability and durability. Sure, the engine itself is probably a bit heavier due to having a steel block rather than aluminium as used in petrol engines. But this brings a couple of advantages - they can survive rougher treatment, even overheating; their life may be much longer (ordinary cars have been known to go on to 500,000 miles or more). As they have no HT (high-voltage) ignition system, they are nearly impervious to moisture. In ,Top Gear ,they left a, ,Toyota Hilux ,on the beach for the tide to come in and submerge it, and afterwards (with a little tinkering) it still started!
Should a car engine be washed? Can you spray your engine with water to clean it?
Warning. Some years ago I drove a VW Golf (rabbit) and late one night the oil pressure switch popped out from the side of the engine and showered the entire engine compartment with oil. The engine was steam cleaned and thus gave rise to many electrical connection problems including the electric radiator fan. Whilst waiting in traffic I noticed the engine temperature rising but the fan never came on. Hoses started to expand and began leaking and then the engine overheated. I had to clean up every every electrical connection to prevent any further damage plus replace several hoses.
Is the reason the Tesla can go so much more than the other EVs, because of the size of the battery pack?
Tesla started with big batteries believing that having more range was what consumers wanted (not needed that's a different thing) where as other manufacturers started off with batteries big enough for what customers needed which is much smaller (mainly to keep costs low, Tesla aimed at the luxury market to begin with so didn't need to). However, Tesla gained several additional advantages by having big batteries: They last longer as people still only drive an average of 16–30 miles per day, so they keep their battery between 20–80% (probably between 75–80% in reality) which improves battery longevity a lot. Smaller batteries get cycled more and are charged-discharged over a wider range say from 10–90% daily, this shortens the life of the battery. They can go much faster because a bigger battery can discharge more current instantly without overheating. They can charge faster, because a bigger battery can accept a charge faster for the same reasons. Tesla are also ostensibly ahead of other EV manufacturers in terms of efficiency and technology. So they are squeezing more out of their battery compared to other vehicles in the same category. Remember a Model S is a luxury supercar, not a VW Golf sized car. A Nissan Leaf can go more miles per kWh but doesn't have the range as it has a smaller battery. Now that batteries are cheaper per kWh everyone is going for larger packs to gain these advantages, and they can do so within their price range.
From a car mechanic's point of view, which car make and model is more reliable and easier to fix when it breaks?
The answer is it ,depends!, But don’t pay attention to the mechanics, because they tend to be biased, based on their Specialties. You notice a lot of Mechanic shops tend to have specialties., Transmission Specialist; A/C Specialist; Engine Rebuild, ,Specialist; Suspension / Alignment Specialist; Muffler Exhaust Specialist; Domestic Ford Specialist; GM Specialist; Chrysler Specialist; Japanese Specialist; European Specialist; Mercedes Specialist; Porsche Specialist; VW/Audi Specialist; etc, etc, etc. Instead look at Taxi companies., Taxi companies have to make a profit! They can’t make a profit if their cars are unreliable, costly to fix, hard to fix or always in the shop. These Taxi companies beat their cars with miles and miles of passengers, luggage you name it. So they tend to use reliable cars that run, and run, and run!!! That said, if you’ve ever been to Europe most, not all but most of the Taxi’s are Mercedes-Benz C-Class or E-Class diesels!, I’ve owned quite a few of these and I can say the Germans are fanatical about maintenance! Thus they design the cars to be easy and low cost preventative maintenance! That’s why Taxi companies and independent drivers use MB diesel Taxi’s, because they can run 1,000,000 miles easy without a rebuild of the engine. What usually breaks are the automatic transmissions which will last about 250k-300K between rebuilds. The manual transmissions can run forever with driving with care! But the clutch packs (Throw-out bearings, disc, pressure plates) will give out around 200k-250k, But that’s relatively cheap to replace. Now if you’ve even visited Las Vegas! ,you’ll notice most if not all of the Taxi’s there are now Toyota Prius!!! Especially the models between the years 2004–2009! I spoke to the owner of a Taxi company, he told me his Toyota Prius 2004–2009 can go easily 1,000,000 miles. Plus, most people don’t know this! Once the Battery main pack fails, they have about 24 cells in that pack. And they fail in series of 2 cells! so you just remove the back seat and replace those two cells for about $30 each cell on Ebay, or $60; people who don’t know replace the entire Main Battery pack for $1500-$2000 which is unnecessary! He also said he can replace the engine with a brand new one for $500. And it’s only on these years Toyota Prius, 2004–2009; which is why these years are prized for their easy Main battery maintenance and replacement. The later model Prius 2010+ they replaced the Main Battery packs with Lithium and they can’t be cheaply replaced like the 04–09’s. One Reader wrote in parts of Europe, I suppose for cost reasons, they use 50% Skoda! I agree, Skoda’s are cheap to buy new, low-cost maintenance, very simple basic design, and very simple, and easy to work on; and can run forever with good maintenance! So they make good taxi’s also! Example: I live in Los Angeles, most people have heard of Craigslist! ,I’ve seen advertisements in Craigslist of Prius mechanics diagnosing, replacing the the, 04–09 Prius battery pack,,, (Parts and Labor) for $300-$400., That is one heck of a bargain and dirt cheap (parts and labor). They know how to remove the rear seats and check all the cells and replace the bad ones and give you a lifetime warranty on the ,04–09;, Amazing price and Deal! My brother owns two Prius an 04 (for him) and a 14 (for his wife). He said he’s only had to replace the Oil at regular intervals and the tires. No other maintenance. Not even brake pads, because the engine uses the “Regenerative Braking” which uses the Electric Motors to brake and recharge the battery pack so there is less wear on the brakes disc rotors and pads. Now I have given advice to women who buy cars! If you’re a woman buy a car in this order of reliability! Or just anybody who is looking for reliability! Subaru (legendary cult following and loyalty in England and Europe) The cars all have built-in All-Time 4-wheel-drive, great for European Snowy Winters and for England's wet driving days for safety! I have to update this today’s date is October 1st, 2019. Subaru “use-to-be-reliable”; DO NOT GET, I repeat DO NOT GET the newer Subaru’s with the CVT transmissions. They are JUNK, unreliable, and expensive to fix to the tune of $2,000 to $3,000 AND these CVT Transmissions go bad early from all the heat. Get a used one if you can or if Subaru’s switch back to standard automatic transmission then get them. AVOID ANY CAR THAT USES CVT Transmissions. (Nissans, Honda’s use them) Toyota and Mazda DO NOT USE CVT’s. Toyota. Honda. Mazda. Now if you’re in the market consider an EV, like Tesla, or Nissan Leaf or Toyota Hybrid! Just a fact, Tesla gave away all their EV patents to promote the industry! So to some extent most of your EV’s, Hybrids, Hybrid-Plug-In’s, are all using Tesla technology of their choosing. (Mercedes-Benz EV, VW e-Golf, Nissan Leaf, Kia plug-in, Honda Clarity, etc, etc) There is no oil change, no radiator fluid change, no overheating, no transmission fluid change. There is almost very little to ZERO Maintenance on an EV. I never did a thing to my 2012 Nissan Leaf EV except change out the Windshield wiper blade refills in the time that I owned it. EV cars are very very low maintenance, maybe new tires, new wiper blade refills, and new brake pads. European cars are great, right up to when they start having electrical bugs and problems and can be very expensive and in the shop often! So Watch the Taxi companies, not the mechanics who have specialties! The Taxi companies know which cars are the most reliable, easy to fix, low cost of maintenance, etc, etc, etc! I’ll put a link here to my other answer on Toyota/Lexus Quality! Stanley Hutchinson's share of Stanley Hutchinson's answer to Is Lexus better than Toyota? If you like this answer please give me an upvote below! Thanks!
Can Tesla get overheated in the summer?
Can Tesla get overheated in the summer? Short answer: no. Any car can become very hot if it is parked in the sun, but Tesla has a functionality to switch on the fan above a certain temperature to ventilate the cabin. It also has a so called “dog mode” where it can (optionally) use the AC too to actively cool down the interior. The battery itself won’t overheat, it can withstand temperatures of 40°C to 50°C too, but it might have a small impact on battery life. On the other hand, it can actively cool down the battery and since the battery is at the bottom of the car, effectively being in the shade of it, normally it won’t reach any extreme temperatures. Driving in summer? Once again, Tesla (like most EVs, with some below-par exceptions, specified at the end of this answer) has an active thermal management system which prevents the drive train from overheating. Of course there will be a small effect if the car is driven on a race track at 40°C comparing to 10°C, but in any normal situation, the HVAC will manage the weather situation without a problem. You asked specifically about Tesla. If the question was about EVs in general, specifically about ,Nissan Leaf, VW e-Golf or e-Up,, the answer would be different because they don’t have active thermal management. ,They are designed as city cars / cars for the daily commute, so this design flaw is probably intentional to save cost. Some will say that there are other reasons too, but this is speculation., In their case, they don’t struggle so much with driving, they overheat at rapid charging (any except the first one), resulting in charging sessions which take up to twice as long.
Why are Toyota and Volkswagen the most successful car companies on earth (in terms of auto sales)? What did they do right?
Well, they’re both the most successful for very different reasons. But also some of the same. The short answer is they’re both very innovative, they both hit their target market perfectly. I lived in Germany, and I’m a VW/Audi master tech so I can shed some light. Toyota is very innovative in process improvement. If you’ve ever heard of lean, 6 sigma, or just in time manufacturing, Toyota invented them all. My wife is in the dental insurance industry and THEY use 6 sigma processes, which Toyota came up with. Basically Toyota realized that in their factory there was redundancy and waste. The tracked everything and analyzed it and realized that people wasted a lot of time walking back and forth to get certain things for their job. So Toyota decided to move everything the assembly workers need to within as close to the worker as possible, within arms reach if they can. That could be as simple as making sure that trash cans were at every station so they didn’t have to walk 20 feet to one. They also aimed to get the factory down to ZERO waste, as in they don’t even have garbage cans anymore, it all gets recycled. Another really HUGE thing they figured out, is that in a typical factory, the parts to build a the cars get shipped in to their shipping department, where they had to be sorted and then put on shelves in inventory. Or, for example the metal for machinists to make parts would come in weeks in advance and have to be sorted, and stored. That means that they had a bunch of employees whose sole job was to put things on a shelf, just to take it back off again. So they came up with just in time manufacturing. In a just in time manufacturing environment, the goal with EVERYTHING is “handle it once”. This means they order things, and have them delivered right before they’re used. So it comes into the factory and gets delivered directly to the workers station who needs it. This means less employees, it means less downtime while the assembly line waits for parts to be pulled, just to find out the warehouse can’t find it because it got put in the wrong spot. Because it’s getting handled two or more times, you’re doubling or tripling the risk of things getting broken, forklift accidents happening, and shrinkage, which is the theft of product. Here’s a fun video to lighten the mood lol. They also concentrated on buying machines that were the right size for the job and not bigger so that machining setup between parts could be done quick (as a machinist, I’ve had a job where the setup between parts took an entire 10 hr shift and then some to change out the plates where the parts are held. We were making the titanium ribs for the Boeing 777…50k dollars per part! Making the machines no bigger than needed saved cost as well. Toyota doesn’t really build GREAT cars. I’ve had a lot of experience with them in my days as a mechanic. They do run FOREVER, and they’re cheap to fix, and unlike German cars, any shop in the world can fix them easily without being a specialist. However, they burn and leak shit tons of oil normally, when I worked at Jiffy Lube at 16 years old, we had a ton of Toyota customers, because Jiffy Lube offers free oil top ups with any oil change. We had guys with Toyotas that had close to 300k miles, and would stop by every other day to get a quart or two of oil, but it kept running. Toyota makes cheap, economy cars for the masses that get good fuel mileage, and are reliable. With the exception of the Supra, they don’t really have any performance models. They DID use to have the AE86 Corolla, and they have the FRS now which has a Subaru motor with a Toyota body I believe. However, for their “performance” car, it’s pretty weak. I drove down to LA to see my Army buddy in my brand new 2013 VW Sportwagen TDI 6 speed, my car was faster AND handled pretty close to as well as the FRS did. In my opinion some of the suspensions Toyota puts on their cars in America should be illegal. I rented a Yaris once, and was just going the speed the offramp told me to go, 30 or something, and there was so much body roll I almost wrecked the car. And then people go put their 16 year old daughter in it, who doesn’t know how to drive, and she’s in a car with unpredictable handling. An 02 VW Jetta 2.0 with 130k miles on the stock shocks will outhandle many new Toyotas. It’s pathetic. And the performance VW models like even the Jetta GLI will destroy all Toyotas. But that’s not what they do, they build cheap reliable cars for people who, in my opinion, don’t enjoy driving as a past time, don’t know about cars, and view their vehicle as merely transportation, rather than a hobby as VW owners do. As proof, Toyota tried to market the Scion brand to younger people interested in sporty cars, basically the 18 to 26 range. The brand was a failure, and lasted only 10 years…Why? Because people who know about cars and want a fun car wouldn’t consider a Toyota. The caveat to that is that there ARE turbo kits for the FRS and Subaru BRZ that make them haul ass, and they’re rear wheel drive and close to a 50/50 weight distribution. But if you can’t afford to do that it’s worthless, Toyota also makes trucks for business, and pickups, which are quality vehicles. Now, VW on the other hand has done it through building relationships with their customers. ,VWVortex, which is an enthusiast site was once the largest car website in the World. The Beetle was like the first car on Earth capable of going 60 mph for an extended period of time without overheating due to being aircooled. Hitler worked with Ferdinand Porsche and designed much of the Beetle including some initial sketches of it, as well as demanding it got 40 mpg, was affordable to the avg German family, could seat 4, and could drive 60 forever without overheating. He intended to have a 24 hour race at Nurnburgring, but WW2 interrupted that, and Ferdinand Porsche fled Germany. The VW plant transitioned to making war vehicles like the 4wd Kubelwagen, which looked like the VW Thing. Allieds bombed the hell out of it, but after the war a British officer realized it would be instrumental in rebuilding their economy and made sure the Beetle went into production. The Beetle surpassed the model T for most vehicles sold ever, and that was beat by the VW Golf later and now has changed to like the Civic or something. Anyway, VW makes sure to sponsor car shows, and nearly every model of car they’ve made since going watercooled has been offered in a performance model that was faster than nearly all other cars besides mustangs and camaros, corvettes, and dodge hemis. The parts are highly interchangeable making them easy to modify, and that interchangeability is what has made them so profitable. VW went to a modular design 5 or 10 years ago that allows them to build every model they make on the same unibody…but you’d never know it from looking. Unlike some other companies, when there’s a safety issue, VW issues a recall BEFORE they get sued. There have been times when they have been sued over things like oil leaks, or burning oil, but they’d never pull a Toyota and wait until they’re sued for unintended acceleration. They were probably right that it wasn’t vehicles just taking off on their own while the customer was on the brakes, their pedal assemblies were just designed poorly and allowed people to accidentally hit the throttle while they hit the brake. Now take VW and Audi, whose motto is Truth in Engineering. Our cars, if you hit the brake pedal, even if you hit the throttle, the engine will cut all power and go to idle. VW and Audi are often 15 to 20 years ahead of the rest of the manufacturers. Take gasoline direct injection, all the manufacturers were trying to perfect if for a decade or so, and VW beat them all. Direct injection is a game changer because it allows you to run a far leaner mixture while cruising, because it isn’t pulled in with the air and compressed, so there’s not physically enough time for the engine to detonate. They also were first to market with the DSG automatic transmission. Most automatic transmissions use a drum with alternating friction and steel disks, and the valve body then presses these disks together as it changes gears. They look fragile right? They are, most autos don’t last 200k miles. The DSG is a manual transmission with dual wet clutches like a motorcycle has for a clutch. So, unlike the autos other brands have, it’s very reliable, and it can shift faster than any human can. I still don’t think they’re as fun, and they can’t anticipate when you need to push the throttle and speed up to avoid an accident so downshifting is weird. This technology is so important that Porsche petitioned the government to allow a company to own more than 50% of VW and Audi for the first time in history. Prior to that the government owned 51%. They did it for the trans, and they did it by shortselling stock, which means borrowing stock betting that your own company will do better than the other, and you can then take over them in a hostile takeover. It failed spectacularly due to VWs new technology, and the guy that masterminded that plan jumped in front of a train and killed himself. Take the braking system as well, VW and Audi (and BMW) have used the ABS system to brake the wheel that loses traction in order to send power to the other side which HAS traction, then when that side loses traction it pulses that brake. Effectively it creates a limited slip differential. This has been around since 1998, and Ford is JUST NOW advertising it this year. That’s why this Touareg is able to drag this truck like nothing. They’re VERY safe as well, for example I know of no other brand that has pyrotechnic seatbelts that go off in an accident to remove all the slack from the belt so you don’t fly toward the airbag. And they use a pressure sensor in the passenger seat to detect if it’s an adult or child and deploy airbags accordingly. I’ve seen an Audi S4 that wrecked at close to 50 mph into a tree and the guy walked away without a scratch. And they’re really nice. I had a base model 99 A6 wagon that had heated REAR seats, you won’t even see that now in a car under 40 or so thousand. People complain they have electrical issues, but it’s mostly people who shouldn’t be fixing their own cars. I own 3 German cars over 200k miles and they have no lights. They’re easy to make fast because many are turbo, I tune cars, and I can make a 180 hp 1.8t put down close to 300 at the crank with no other mods. Watch the video below if you’d like. And you can take a 1.8t and unlike a Honda which uses different engines and trans for each motor, you can bolt a 1.8t from a 2003 VW right to your trans in your 77 rabbit, it even has the holes for the motor mount on the block. They’re like legos.
What are the pros and cons of buying a car with 100,000 miles and greater on it?
Pros: should be cheap, cheaper to maintain as well, depending on the make and model, as well as the previous owner. Cons: possible underlying problems that need fixing, could be more thirsty if the mileage is very high. I always follow 2 steps. 1. I always take a good look at the interior, and test out all the electronics, like the power windows, the wipers, defogger, heater, a/c etc. It is usually a sign of how the previous owner took care of it. If there are a lot of scratches, and if some plastic panels are cracked, it is likely that the owner treated it like dirt. If the interior is in a good condition, and all of the most important electronics work, it would mean that engine problems are less likely (but not out of the question!). 2. Take it for a test drive. This is how you really find out if something is wrong. Drive it under all conditions if possible to see if you like it (drive it in town, on a busy road, and on the freeway at cruising speeds). If it checks out under these conditions, and there are no unsettling engine noises or faulty electronics, then you are good to go, but keep in mind that there might be problems. A complete service history is a very good sign, so if you come across an older car with one, it is safe to say (but not always guaranteed) that it will last long. If you want to read further, here is my experience with this matter. (WARNING: long story ahead) My dad bought me my first car in 2012, a 2004 Volkswagen Citi Golf with about 180000 km (111846 miles) on the clock. For those of you who do not know what the car looks like (They were only made in South Africa until 2009), see the picture below: It is basically a heavily revamped version of the VW Golf mk1 (rabbit), with a new dashboard (post 2004), new engine, and new headlights and taillights, etc. I digress. The interior looked to be in great shape, if a little old-fashioned by design. The performance is quite satisfactory, with a 1.6 litre fuel injected engine, kicking out about 100hp. It was good all round, if a bit noisy at speed. These cars were especially renowned for their reliability and ease of maintenance. It ran pretty much without a hitch, until it blew a gasket in 2013 (the car mysteriously started overheating after I got it back from the panelbeater after some idiot drove into me from behind, they must have let it run without coolant or something). Fortunately, these cars are known to have very hard cylinder heads, so no serious damage occurred. It was a mildly expensive fix at about R5000 (about $364), but it was worth it. after the fix, it hasn’t given me any problems, up until recently, when I had to replace the distributor cap (my fault, I drove through several large puddles at speed, not knowing that it is very bad for the dist. Cap if water goes into it). Luckily it was a very cheap fix, at R60 (about $4). It has also started overheating slightly on long hauls, but I suspect that it is rust in the radiator that keeps the fan switch from turning the fan on (I suspect that this is because I drove the car for 5 years without ever knowing that there was no antifreeze in the water, my bad…). Fortunately, a new radiator is very cheap, so i will probably replace it soon. Other than a few self-inflicted issues, and a careless panelbeater, the car is tough as nails, still running strong at almost 250000 km (155342 miles). I don’t really look forward to selling it one day… So there you have it. Sometimes an old car can outlast even you, depending on whether it is known for reliability, or lack thereof. There are cases, however, where an old car can be nothing but trouble, like my dad’s 2006 Mahindra Bolero that he bought in 2013. It kept giving problems, first the diff had to be replaced, then the starter blew. Shortly, the glow plugs (which helps with cold starts in a diesel engine) went as well, and then the turbo had to be replaced. All within a span of 5 years, before the engine finally blew earlier this year. My dad recently had an overhauled Ford Cortina V6 installed, so let’s hope the problems stop there. So the bottom line is: always check everything before you buy an old car. If you are lucky, you will land a good deal. Sometimes things will go wrong, even if you did, so be prepared to spend a few bucks either way. Also, remember to do maintenance frequently, and always consult a professional if you want to do it yourself, or you might end up with a rusty radiator, or a damaged distributor cap… Most importantly, find out what the spare parts of that specific make and model go for. Some older cars can still be very pricey to maintain. One busted window motor on my friend’s 1994 Mercedes E200 cost him the equivalent of $291 (labour excluded) to replace, and that was at the cheapest place they could find! That is about double the price of a new throttle body for my car, which is, as far as I know, the most expensive part to replace (I hope mine doesn’t need replacing anytime soon!)
FAQs Terkait vw golf overheating
How many wheelbase(mm) does Volkswagen Golf has?
The wheelbase(mm) of Volkswagen Golf are 2620.
Does Volkswagen Golf has Autonomous Emergency Braking?
No, Volkswagen Golf doesn't have Autonomous Emergency Braking.
What is the Number of Cylinders of Volkswagen Golf?
Here are the Number of Cylinders and variants of Volkswagen Golf:
Variants 2018 Volkswagen Golf 1.4 TSI R-Line 2018 Volkswagen Golf 1.4 TSI Sportline Number of Cylinders 4 4
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